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TO THE CHILDREN OF MAINE 

MY NATIVE STATE 

THE AUTHOR INSCRIBES THIS BOOK 



TWENTY YEARS 

AT 

PEMAQU1D 



Sketches of Its History and 
Its Remains 

ANCIENT AND MODERN 
BY J. HENRY CARTLAND 



The restless sea resounds along the shore, 

The light land breeze flows outward with a sigh, 
And each to each seems chanting evermore 

A mournful memory of the days gone by : 
All underneath these tufted mounds of grass 

Lies many a relic, many a storied stone, 
And pale ghosts rise as lingering footsteps pass 

The ruined fort with tangled vines o'ergrown. 

— Mrs. M. W. Hackelton. 



PEMAQUID BEACH, MAINE 
1914 



L. A. Moore 
Printer 

BoothLay Harbor 
M»me 



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INTRODUCTION. 



Many an ancient spot, rendered dear by tradition and sacred 
associations, is disguised by a modern aspect. But though 
time brushes away the old landmarks and the once familiar 
scenes disappear, the halo cast by memory remains, and the 
locality lives in our hearts and thoughts as it was before the 
change. Rev, Dr. T. DeWitt Talmage. 

Many people visit Old Pemaquid every year who have once 
claimed it as their home, but have been obliged to seek employ- 
ment elsewhere. Few visit this place who do not wish to come 
again to enjoy its attractive natural scenery and try to fathom 
the hidden mysteries of its past. 

After one year of research here I thought it would be an 
easy task to write a history of Pemaquid. To-day after many 
years of investigation I have changed my mind. It is not from 
lack of interesting material, but it has been difficult to select 
the most interesting facts and put them in the most attractive 
form. I am especially indebted to Rev. H. O. Thayer of Port- 
land, Maine, for valuable aid in compiling this work and for 
translations of important French documents: also to Miss Bell, 
a lady from Canada, a good French scholar, who made her 
home here at the Jamestown Hotel, I am indebted for transla- 
tions of French documents and other useful information. From 
Prof. John Johnston's History of Bristol and Bremen, which 
has been very freely quoted in this work, I have obtained more 
information than from any other single volume. Others, too 
numerous to mention, have contributed a sketch, a poem, a 
story, or bits of history, — to all of whom I tender my hearty 
thanks. 



10 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

past history, as well as much mystery, which yet puzzles, while 
it interests the antiquarian. No naturalist has yet solved the 
mystery of the great oyster shell mounds of Ancient Pemaquid 
on the Damariscotta River, or historian, of the excellent pav- 
ings found at three different localities on both banks of the 
Pemaquid River; thousands of other relics are objects of 
interest to the traveler. 

The Eastern Steamship Corporation have two steamers runn- 
ing from Portland; the Monhegan," of the Portland and 
Rockland line, which touches at New Harbor, and the Booth- 
bay line, for Boothbay Harbor, South Bristol and East Booth- 
bay. New Harbor and South Bristol are both near Pemaquid 
and easily reached from either place. These steamers connect 
at Portland with boats from New York and Boston. At Bath 
the Kennebec line from Boston connects with the steamers 
" Southport " and Westport " for Boothbay Harbor and Pem- 
aquid direct, daily in summer. A smaller excursion boat 
called the Tourist," connects with all the summer resorts in 
the vicinity of Pemaquid several times each day. 

The steamer Newcastle, Capt. E. P. Gamage, for Damaris- 
cotta and way stations, and the steamer Islesford, Capt. Plum- 
mer Leeman, for Boothbay Harbor and way stations, from 
South Bristol, make two trips daily. 

There are two steamer landings at Pemaquid, the first is 
called Pemaquid Beach; the second Pemaquid Harbor, which 
lies across the river, on the west side. Passengers for the 
Penny Cottages, Edgemere Hotel, Bayview House, Lookout 
Cottage and Pemaquid Falls, land at the latter. Those pas- 
sengers wishing to reach Long Cove, New Harbor, Pemaquid 
Point, the Beach or Jamestown Hotel, near the landing, leave 
at the first station, where carriages are ready to convey them 
to their respective destinations. 

The landing called Pemaquid Beach is near the ruins of the 
Old Fort, marked by the Old Fort Rock of Pemaquid with date 
of 1607 upon it. This date is to commemorate the landing of 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 11 

the Popham Colony, the first English people at this place, on 
August 8th and 10th, 1607. 

This was thirteen years previous to the Plymouth Colony at 
Cape Cod. They had two ships and one hundred and twenty 
people. One ship, the Mayflower," brought one hundred 
and two passengers, Dec, 1620; the ship Newport," brought 
one hundred and five to Jamestown, May 6th, 1607. 

This rock is now surrounded by the Old Castle restored on 
the original foundations and most of the original stone of which 
it was first built, by Sir William Phips, in 1692. This foun- 
dation, discovered in 1893, was found to be in good condition, 
after being buried and forgotten since the American Revolu- 
tion of 1775. 

Here, also, is the Old Fort House, its beautiful peninsula, 
with its field of graves," the site of the ancient capital of 
Pemaquid with its paved streets, which have been buried for 
centuries and only discovered by accident, and the great white 
sand beach with its continued music of the sea;" also smaller 
beaches, the wonderful collection of curios and antiques, telling 
their undisputable stories of a people of long ago, who had be- 
come almost forgotten by their successors to this favored home 
of those who go down to the sea in ships." 



CHAPTER 



Location of Pemaquid 

ALTHOUGH once the most noted locality by far of all 
New England, to-day comparatively few people know 
anything of Pemaquid, its location, its topography or forma- 
tion, or its history. 

Pemaquid as known to-day embraces three natural divisions 
of the southern part of the town of Bristol in Lincoln County, 
Maine. Bristol is bounded on the west by the Damariscotta 
River, on the north by the town of that name, and Bremen, 
once a part of Bristol, on the east and south by Broad Sound, 
the ocean and John's Bay. John's River on the west and 
Pemaquid River on the east divide the lower section into three 
parts, consisting of high ridges of land which lie between them. 

Bristol derived its name from a noted city of that name in 
England, whose leading merchants were among the first to 
manifest a deep interest in American discovery, and subscribed 
a thousand pounds to fit out an expedition in 1603 to explore 
and trade on the New England coast. It was once on the 
highway of travel, when sailing vessels necessarily visited land 
often for fresh supplies of fuel and water. Now larger and 
swifter ships propelled by steam, race across the Atlantic Ocean 
in less days than it then took weeks, and the passing immi- 
grant or traveler is rushed on to the more southern and west- 
ern parts of our country, leaving the varied attractions of our 
State unseen, and by many unknown. 

As the great lines of ships pass us on the one side, so the 
lines of railroads transport their passengers upon the other, 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 9 

leaving old Pemaquid neglected while its inhabitants seek a 
livelihood on the very site of its ruins, former paved streets, 
and fortifications. All along the sea coast which bounds the 
southern shore of Maine, are many points, or peninsulas vary- 
ing in length and height, and islands, which are all caused by 
nature's upheaval of mineral formation, the unbroken parts 
forming its peninsulas, and those rising out of the ocean at 
their southern extremities, the beautiful islands for which this 
coast has been noted since its first discovery by the white man. 
These divisions of land have been compared to the fingers of 
one's hand, between which, flow bays and rivers of salt and 
fresh water. Across the head waters of the bays in this section, 
to save expensive bridging, the railroad extends direct from 
Bath to Rockland, thus spanning the territory of Pemaquid, 
east and west, and which — bounded by the Kennebec and 
Penobscot — was claimed formerly by both the French and the 
English. On the south it was bounded by the broad ocean, on 
the north, or land side, indefinitely. Not a pound of railroad 
iron has ever been laid in Bristol to bring travel to our shores, 
the whistle of the locomotive or the rattle of the electric car 
never startled our deer or other wild game, and the telephone 
had never stretched out its hand to greet us till the year 1898. 
Teams and stages convey the mail, goods and people by land, 
as formerly, and sailing vessels and small steamers by water, 
as in times past. 

Within the last decade the tide of travel to some extent has 
turned back down east " and many people come this way 
where, for generations past, they have had the reputation of 
' prying up the sun in the morning." Portland, with its 
noted isles of Casco Bay; Fort Popham, Boothbay, Squirrel and 
Heron Islands, Christmas Cove, South Bristol and Pemaquid, 
and so on to Bar Harbor; and beyond are resorts on our shores 
now eagerly sought by increasing thousands every year. His- 
torians and lovers of the antique seek Pemaquid, where they 
find, besides many attractions of other sorts, a locality rich in 



6 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

At the Boston Public Library are to be found more than 
thirty books and manuscripts containing history of this locality; 
many in English, some in French and Spanish, records of those 
three nations which struggled for possession of this continent 
for many years after its discovery by Columbus. It is essential 
to consult all of these to obtain the history of ancient Pemaquid. 
Owing to its control by different nations at different periods it 
has had a wonderfully checkered career. Being near the east- 
ern boundary line of New England and the French on the west, 
and claimed for a long time by both nations, was the cause of 
much contention, and finally the construction of Fort William 
Henry at an expense of nearly 20,000 pounds. This was the 
third fort erected here. Sir William Phips, the builder, was 
a native of Maine, and the first Governor of Massachusetts be- 
fore their separation. The remains of this fort, covering nearly 
one-half acre of land, enclosing it with walls six feet thick on 
the side towards the sea, (formerly twenty-two feet high) amaze 
visitors who inquire why such a structure was required here, 

away down east." 

Since publishing and disposing of my first edition of the 
history of this place, entitled ' Ten Years at Pemaquid," there 
has been a constant^ increasing demand for more information 
about this locality. The summer travel to Maine has in- 
creased wonderfully, the facilities for reaching places of interest 
greatly improved by the fine steamers of the Eastern Steamship 
Corporation, which ply along the New England seacoast all the 
way between the British Provinces and New York. 

The handsome yachts, naptha boats and automobiles, bring- 
ing many people here, the attractions of this place have been 
increased by restoring the old castle at the west corner of the 
stone fort of William Henry, which surrounded the Fort Rock 
of Pemaquid, on which is the date of the landing of the first 
English people here, on August 8th and 10th, 1607. This 
structure was built by Sir William Phips, to prevent the 
Indians from using it as they had done to capture Fort Charles 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 7 

in 1689, while under the jurisdiction of New York, when Sir 
Edmond Andros was governor. This castle, though a small 
part of the fortification, answers for a monument and museum 
combined, being about one hundred and fifty feet in diameter 
and thirty-five feet high. In the basement are the remains of 
the magazine, and many relics gathered about the old fort 
walls. The room on the second floor is made attractive by 
show cases filled with relics, gathered principally about the 
ruins here, and choice pictures and paintings of the builders 
of two of the forts, the French commander of the naval fleet, 
Siur De Iberville, and the ships he used to capture it with, and 
many others pertaining to the history of this locality. From 
the flat roof of this castle a grand panoramic view is to be ob- 
tained of the harbors, bay and ocean, in one direction, dotted 
with many islands, and vessels are to be seen most of the time. 
In the opposite direction the winding river of Pemaquid, the 
little village and scattered cottages of the summer visitors and 
permanent residents, much of the land being covered with the 
evergreen spruce and fir trees; all combining to make the 
scene attractive and long to be remembered with pleasure. 



CHAPTER II. 



F 



Pemaquid as it Appears Today 

OR further description of Pemaquid it seems necessary to 
note the present appearance, and industries of its people. 
As most people visit this place by water, I will join the 
traveler at Boothbay, with his permission, and point out the 
various places of interest as we journey to the former capital, 
now called Pemaquid Beach, located at the mouth of the 
Pemaquid River. As we stand on the deck, or gaze from the 
cabin window of one of the steamers daily plying between 
Boothbay and this place in the summer, many places of in- 
terest can be seen to good advantage. 

The first large island we pass on the right hand is Squirrel," 
well known as a summer resort all along the New England 
coast, having a fine hotel and well dotted over with many 
cottages of summer visitors. Steamers and naphtha boat land- 
ings are frequent there from Boothbay and vicinity. On the 
opposite side we pass the wide entrance to Linekin's Bay; on 
the high land at the north end we plainly see the three villages 
of Bayville, Murray Hill and Paradise, where many people 
from Massachusetts find a pleasant residence during the summer 
months, kept comfortable by the cool sea breezes which come 
across the bay from the broad ocean. On the southern point 
at the eastern entrance of this bay we see the dark, spruce- 
covered land called Nigger Island, and the pretty clustering 
summer cottages of the new settlement named Ocean Point. 
Then, as we enter the mouth of the Damariscotta River, close 
by on the right, we see the government lighthouse and fog bell 




Captain Alfred Race 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 13 

of Ram Island; the next in line, extending south is Fishermans, 
and the outer one, Damariscove Island (called in times past 
Damerills). That has a very small harbor at the south end 
where a life-saving station is located. 

In 1676 when King Philip sent his emissaries along the 
coast of New England to annihilate the white settlers, the in- 
habitants of Pemaquid fled in terror from their homes, and 
three hundred of them gathered on Damariscove Island, and 
from there watched the smoking ruins of their former homes 
as they were being destroyed by the flaming torch of the sava- 
ges. Here, too, in olden times the rollicking and jolly Eng- 
lish fisherman celebrated his home customs by dancing around 
the May-pole co song and instrumental music. In this group 
those high islands lying a little farther east are rightly named 
White Islands, as their rocky shores show white from the ever- 
green trees on their heights to the water boundary of the sea 
below. The Hypocrites, Pumpkin Islands and Outer Heron 
Island are others of this group. 

Many stories of ghosts, hidden treasures and pirates have 
been told of the latter island, legends that still cling to many 
a spot along our rugged coast. On Outer Heron Island was 
kept, a few years ago, a colony of imported foxes, which were 
cared for by their owner, Capt. R. H. Emerson, a veteran of 
the civil war, carrying many scars of battle. Several fisher- 
men kept him company, and on the surrounding islands others 
have their homes in close proximity to excellent fishing grounds. 
The veteran has passed to his long home and the colony of foxes 
was not a success. 

Passing on to Inner Heron where we land at the northern 
end, we are fairly among the great group of islands sometimes 
called the " Archipelago of Pemaquid." All the land we now 
see about us is surrounded by water except that lying across 
the river just west of us, and it could also be made an island 
by digging a canal a few hundred feet long. 

Inner Heron Island, a noted health resort, has a charming 



14 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

location directly in the mouth or outlet of the Damariscotta 
River, where it is a mile wide. Its hotel, the Madockawando, 
is named for a Chief of the Penobscot tribe whose daughter 
married the French officer, Baron de Castine. The majority 
of the summer visitors upon this island are from western 
Massachusetts. 

While the steamer lies here at the wharf of Heron Island 
we can take a view up the river for several miles, the banks of 
which are quite high and well covered with evergreen trees. 
Some account of the history connected with it may prove in- 
teresting. 

A short way up this river are the two villages known as 
South Bristol on the left bank, and East Boothbay across the 
river on the right bank. These two villages, having no rail- 
roads, were formerly connected with Portland and several other 
places, by steamer " Enterprise," and Captain Race and his 
officers and men, so well and favorably known along our sea 
coast. The Eastern Steamship Corporation purchased the "En- 
terprise" in June, 1912, and took her off the route, but very 
wisely secured the services of Captain Race and his people to 
command the steamer succeeding her. 

This is a salt-water river, so-called because its shores are 
bounded by the high ridges of rocks, ledges and soil, such as 
abound along our Maine sea coast, confining the tidewaters of 
the ocean in the form of rivers, bays and beautiful coves which 
form such fine harbors and give access to vessels far into the 
land. Up this river the tide ebbs and flows swiftly for fourteen 
miles, where a large lake flows into it over a steep embank- 
ment and gives fine water power for electric lights for miles 
distant. 

Here millions of fish called alewives gather every spring and 
by struggling hard, gain the fresh water of the lake above, 
where they deposit their eggs to hatch, returning to the salt 
water in a few weeks. Their young, on attaining a length of 
about three inches, follow their parents to the ocean and go 




Steamer Enterprise at Boothbay Harbor 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 15 

south like the mackerel, porgie, dog fish, shad and many others. 
Where they pass the winter no man knows, but this we know: 
some fish, when they go south are fat and in fine condition but 
when they return in the spring are lean and poor. Like the 
migratory birds, they seek a more congenial climate in winter 
than ours. It has always been a puzzle, a remarkable law of 
nature, that a fish should be able to exist a part of its life in 
salt water and a part in fresh water, and that the fish of the 
great salt ocean should have to seek the fresh water lakes to 
propogate their young. 

The first landing place, called South Bristol, is on the left 
bank of this riyer, at the north end of Rutherford Island. 
This name is said to have been given it by Rev, Robert 
Rutherford, a Presbyterian clergyman who came to Pemaquid 
as chaplain for David Dunbar, who was sent to rebuild Fort 
Frederic in 1729. A bridge joins the island to the mainland. 
Two summer hotels, the Summit House, kept by Mr. Nelson 
Gamage, and the Thompson Inn, kept by E. McFarland, are 
well patronized by a fine class of people, many of them Friends, 
or Quakers, from Philadelphia. A postoffice, stores, a ship- 
yard and many summer cottages are located there. The next 
village two miles distant across the river is East Boothbay, 
(formerly Hodgdon's Mills from the large tide-mill there). 
Vessels of large dimensions were formerly built there, but to- 
day are built principally fine steam and sailing yachts, naptha 
boats by the Rice Brothers, and fine fishing craft by the Hodg- 
don Brothers and Mr. Adams. 

Passing up the river, on Fort Island are the ruins of Fort 
Farley at its south end. The other places of interest along the 
banks of this river are establishments where a great quantity 
of ice is cut principally from artificial fresh water ponds, on 
both banks of the river, Bricks, hay and wood are other arti- 
cles of export. The transportation by large vessels plying up 
and down the river, often propelled by towboats, form interest- 
ing pictures which add to its attraction. Brick yards were nu- 



16 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

merous on the banks of this river forty years ago, and many 
ships were built there by people who lived in the vicinity, and 
in the towns about were men who could navigate and sail them 
around the world. 

Twelve miles from its mouth are the quiet and pretty twin 
villages of Damariscotta and Newcastle, one on either bank of 
the river, joined by a substantial iron bridge. Two miles far- 
ther up the river, are found the famous Oyster Shell Mounds, 
a puzzle to the naturalist and investigator since first discovered 
by the white settlers, where yet remain immense heaps of de- 
composing shells from two to twenty-five feet deep, covering 
acres of ground on both banks of the river, and in some places 
are found ten feet deep in the bed of the bay. In the October 
number of the New England Magazine, 1898, is to be found 
an excellent illustrated sketch pertaining to those mounds, 
written by George Stillman Berry. 

We now continue our trip to Pemaquid. The next landing 
is the pretty little harbor of Christmas Cove, thought by some 
to have been named by the Norsemen when they visited our 
shores in 1001. It might be well to cherish this name in re- 
membrance of their visits to our New England coast. There 
are hieroglyphical inscriptions found upon rocks at Monhegan 
and Damariscove Islands, supposed by many to have been the 
work of the Norsemen, but we do not consider them reliable. 
We have abundant historical evidence of their visits to our 
shores centuries before Columbus came here, and records re- 
cently found at the Vatican, by Mr. John B. Shipley, show 
that the Roman Church had in its possession a map furnished 
by them of New England and the eastern coast of North 
America, fifty years before the Columbus Expedition, showing 
that their discovery was recorded at that time. It is strange 
if Columbus, as well as some other mariners of his time, did 
not learn of it long before he sailed for America. In 1892 a 
Viking ship, a model of one of those used a thousand years ago, 
passed these shores on its way to the World's Fair at Chicago. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 17 

The story of those hardy men, pictures, and descriptions of 
their ships propelled by oars and a single square sail, make 
interesting reading. We have a fine engraving of one of them 
on exhibition at the museum in the restored castle at Pema- 
quid. All the monarchs of England after William the Con- 
queror, himself the grandson of a Sea King, are descendants of 
the hardy Norsemen. They wore hoods upon their heads, sur- 
mounted with eagles' wings and walruses' tusks, mailed armor, 
and for robes the skins of polar bears. In the following old 
ballad their hardy and ferocious disposition is well portrayed." 

" He scorns to rest 'neath the smoky rafter, 

He plows with his boat the roaring deep; 

The billows boil and the storm howls after — 

But the tempest is only a thing of laughter — 

The sea-king loves it better than sleep! " 

They deserve a passing notice here because we of English 
descent can trace our ancestry back to the Norsemen who over- 
run England under William the Conqueror. 

Not many years ago Christmas Cove was one of the many 
fishing stations located along our coast from which sailed large 
and substantial fishing vessels, with sturdy crews, on long voy- 
ages to the banks of Newfoundland and other places. The 
Thorpe brothers, owning two vessels, one called the Mountain 
Laurel " sailed by Capt. Edward, and the 'Twilight," by Capt. 
Loring Thorpe, used to belong here. They made two trips to 
the banks for codfish each spring, being gone from six to eight 
weeks ; then during the latter part of the summer visited the 
Bay of Chaleurs and British coast in pursuit of mackerel. 
Large buildings were required to store and salt the fish they 
caught, and flakes covering much land were built to dry and 
cure them on. A store was provided to furnish goods to the 
families of those hardy men who manned their vessels. This 
is one of the passing industries" of our sea coast. Steamers 
now land passengers where old bankers landed codfish. The 
old storehouses protect the freight and baggage of the summer 



18 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

visitors, and the descendants of the fishermen cater to their 
wants. A large hotel, the Holly Inn, is located there, that 
will accommodate about two hundred people, and is kept by 
Albert Thorpe. 

As we pass out of Christmas Cove, continuing our passage 
toward Pemaquid Beach, we leave Inner Heron Island on the 
south. The large island which the steamer heads for, whose 
highest part is covered with spruce trees, is called Thrumbcap. 
It is owned by Mr.lEdward C. Holmes, (a relative of Oliver 
Wendell Holmes) who, with his family and friends, have occu- 
pied it for several years, using steam and sailing yachts for 
conveyance to diiferent places of interest. One of the pretti- 
est little beaches to be found in this section extends across a 
cove at the south end of this island, which consists entirely of 
finely broken and bleached mussel shells. Mr. Holmes has 
shipped many barrels of those found about the island for hens. 
At one time he had a mill at one of the oyster shell heaps, 
above referred to, on the eastern bank of the Damariscotta 
River, where he made a business of grinding up the shells for 
the same purpose. 

Here we change our course, abruptly sweeping around the 
black spar buoy on our left and entering a narrow passage called 
the "Thread of Life," which is formed by a part of the smaller 
islands, which extend in nearly a straight line between the 
two larger islands : Thrumbcap on the southland Birch Island 
on the north. The little huts seen along this passage upon 
either side of it, are occupied, a part of the year, by fishermen 
who come from a distance to catch lobsters, finding a safe and 
convenient harbor for the pursuit of their occupation. 

Leaving this passage we then pass a red buoy on the right, 
at the north end of Crow Island, and enter the southern part 
of John's Bay. A few years ago a small cottage was built on 
this little island and occupied by Mr Fred Partridge and Mr. 
Henry Sproul, both belonging to Pemaquid Beach, but who 
were engaged in their occupation of catching lobsters here. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 19 

This was more convenient to the fishing grounds, and saved 
them a long row morning and evening to and from their work. 
There were no powerboats then. A severe easterly gale came 
on one night, and Mr. Sproul's boat filled with water as it lay 
at the mooring, and the mast and sail went adrift. Mr. Sproul 
took a small skiff and rowed out and got it, but while rowing 
back one of the rowlocks came out, forcing him to leave the 
sail and return to the shore for another, which Mr. Partridge 
gave him. By this time the sail had drifted quite a distance, 
and after reaching it, for some reason he gave up trying to save 
the sail and started to row back very fast, as though his skiff 
had begun to fill, or it was too rough for him. Again the row- 
lock came out, which made him tip to one side of the skiff and 
capsize. Not being able to swim he quickly sunk from view, 
weighted down, as he was, with heavy oil clothes and rubber 
boots. Mr. Partridge could do nothing to assist him, and so 
spent the most lonesome and dubious night he had ever expe- 
rienced, made worse by the storm of snow and wind that pre- 
vailed. At daylight he hoisted a blanket in a spruce tree and 
started a fire beside it, which attracted the attention of Mr. 
Thorpe and another man on the island adjoining, who came to 
his relief. The people soon began dragging for the body of the 
drowned man, and secured it with a troll of fish hooks. 

Several people have been drowned in this vicinity since the 
writer came here in 1888 : Henry Sproul, William McClain 
and Leforest Curtis, a man and boy up Johns River — Mr. Al- 
mond D. McClain and Harold McClain, and Ralph Stevens. 

Another event which occurred here about fifty years ago may 
be worth recording. At that time and long previously the 
fishermen along the shore used many small vessels, fishing for 
the most part at night, and taking their catch on shore and 
salting them in butts," as the hogsheads they used were 
called, where they would remain in pickle until the fall, when 
they would be taken out and dried on flakes, ready for market. 
When they were cured they were put on board their vessels 



20 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

and taken to market, usually to Portland from this locality, 
and then all hands would have a grand good time visiting the 
theatres and other shows, purchase their provisions and other 
articles that pleased their fancy, then return to their homes to 
enjoy the fruits of their summer labor. A former Captain of 
Pemaquid, named Charles Geyer, with two of his sons, had 
made their usual summer trip to Portland and were returning, 
but when within three miles of their home, and owing to a 
severe storm which had been raging, a heavy sea was breaking 
over the shallow places all along the shore, and at the entrance 
of the passage called the thread of life" the sea, at intervals, 
would break entirely across, to the opposite shore. Just as 
they arrived here a heavy wave met them and dashed their 
vessel on the jagged rocks, ending her career. The people 
escaped in their small boat, losing nearly everything which 
they had purchased. Mr. John Geyer had bought a violin to 
amuse himself with through the long winter evenings. As 
they rowed up the bay towards their home Mr. Charles Geyer, 
turning to his son, made this inquiry of him: John, what 
kind of a tune do you suppose your fiddle is playing now?" 
He was a man who had lost one hand by the bursting of a 
gun and did not seem to let small affairs ruffle his temper. 

The following story, copied from the Boothbay Register of 
March 14, 1914, illustrates well what I have heard the old 
fishermen tell of their early voyages when they had to do all 
their cooking over open fire places as was done both on vessels 
and on shore before stoves and ranges were invented. To-day 
they sail in larger vessels that employ from twelve to twenty 
men. Many of these vessels are equipped with naptha power 
and have the most up-to-date appliances for cooking and the 
best ' grub " the market affords, to which the men do justice 
by eating four meals a day when business is good. 

A veteran fisherman writes of his first trip to the banks as 
cook. Sixty-two years ago, when sixteen years of age, he 
shipped on a schooner of forty tons. She had a brick fire 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 21 

place to cook with. My wages were eight dollars a month. 
The skipper was twenty-one years old and his brother was 
eighteen. The crew of four men have all gone to rest. Some 
difference in fitting up then than now; no butter, no sugar, 
but plenty of hardtack. I cooked a few meals before leaving 
home just to get my hand in. The skipper's brother asked 
me to cook some rice. I asked him how much?' he says, 'oh, 
four mugs full.' I put it on to boil. The first I noticed was 
the cover rising up. I took half of it out and set it going 
again, but soon the cover was up again. I took out more and 
filled every dish in the galley with rice. The skipper looked 
down and exclaimed, for G~d sake what are you doing with 
all that rice? We can never eat it.' Nothing to burn but 
candles. I had a Dutch oven to bake bread in. One of the 
crew showed me how to make a dandy bunk. I had to roast 
and grind my own coffee. When we left for the Cape Sables 
the men were all full of rum and molasses, they could hardly 
steer the vessel. The skipper pointed out a star to steer for. 
The man at the wheel yelled out that he had lost the star, but 
we got to the fishing ground and caught a good fare of fish and 
returned home all safe.' " 

In the far distance we catch a glimpse of that ' Grand Isle 
of the Sea," called Monhegan, an Indian name having the 
accent on the second syllable, like Men-an-as, Mus-con-gus, 
Na-han-a-da, etc. This name is composed of two Indian 
words, Men-a-han." an island, and Ki-gan," land in or 
by the great sea, meaning island at sea, or great sea island. 
[This definition by R. K. Sewall, author of Ancient Domin- 
ions of Maine.] 

This island is important on account of its connection with 
the early history of Pemaquid, being the one first mentioned 
in connection with it. For several years past it has been 
sought as a quiet retreat by artists and other people from the 
cities. Capt. William S. Humphrey with his schooner "Effort'* 
used to transport the passengers and mail to and from Booth bay 



22 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

Harbor. The " Effort " was blown up by gasolene a few years 
ago and now passengers, freight and the mail are carried daily 
between the island and the main by the steamer May Archer, 
Capt. Isaac Archibald. For ages this great island has stood 
like a sentinel to direct the incoming mariner to the mouth of 
the Penobscot River, as our other noted island of Seguin has 
always been the guide to the Kennebec. There are now 
powerful lights on each of those islands to guide the mariners 
at night while sailing in all directions about them. 

The nearest land seen across the bay which forms its western 
boundary is Pemaquid Point, about three miles in length, on 
which stands another government lighthouse and large fog 
bell, formerly attended by Charles A. Dolliver and Herman E. 
Brewer. It is now attended by Mr. E. E. Marr and his family. 
This lighthouse was established and first attended in 1824 by 
Mr. Isaac Dunham, whose grandson, Martin V. B. Dunham, 
now has a fine summer cottage and owns the little island at 
the entrance of New Harbor, the northeastern boundary of that 
point. This point is an excellent specimen of those finger-like 
projections spoken of in the preceding chapter, sloping from 
the high ridge along its center to the shore in all directions. 
This, like most of the other points and islands in this vicinity, 
is now partially covered with a thick growth of spruce and fir 
trees, which have taken the place of large pines and other 
growth, which, centuries ago, existed here. Capt. John Smith, 
when he surveyed this coast in 1614, wondered how such large 
trees could grow upon the islands and main in this vicinity. 
Along the high ridges of these peninsulas extend excellent 
roads, with branches leading in various directions to the shore. 
Many fine fields and pastures, with the homes of their owners, 
are scattered all over this locality, forming an attractive scene. 

An interesting fact connected with this point is that for 
many years past a large flock of sheep, ranging from one to 
three hundred in number, belonging to the Partridge heirs, 
have obtained their living on the western shore of this point 




Self-supporting Sheep. For Many Years Mr. Partridge kept Hundreds of 
these Sheep on Pemaquid Point 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 23 

of land. I am informed by Mr. Partridge that they had not 
been fed for many years past, until soon after the great storm 
of Nov. 26, 1898, he had a small load of hay hauled down to 
them. This was the great easterly gale in which the steam- 
ship City of Portland was lost, when her passengers, of over 
two hundred, perished, attempting to reach Portland from 
Boston. At Pemaquid, the schooner H. H. Chamberlain, 
with four young men on board, was blown out of the harbor 
and away south to the Gulf Stream. Their people despaired 
of ever seeing them again but they returned after two weeks' 
suffering from their dangerous voyage. I visited the feeding 
ground of the sheep just a few days afterwards, and the hay 
was still there, while they were eating the food nature had 
supplied them with. They know when the tide leaves the 
shore at low water as well as a person; they go in flocks to 
seek their food, eating the dulse and other vegetation thrown 
up by the sea. At high water they feed upon the moss and 
evergreen foliage found on the shore. Among the thickest 
clusters of spruce trees they find their only protection from the 
howling blasts of winter, and this growth is so thick that no 
ray of sunshine can penetrate in summer. They lived and 
thrived with little care or expense to their owners. This in- 
dustry is now done away with as the sheep became troublesome 
to their owners on account of bad dogs, and also an annoyance 
to summer visitors and others having gardens to protect. 

On Sept. 17, 1903, a heavy gale occurred here in the night, 
by which two vessels were wrecked within one-fourth of a 
mile of each other, at the end of Pemaquid Point, The first 
was the George F. Edmonds, Capt. Willard Pool, a large fisher- 
man from Boston, with seventeen men on board, fifteen of 
whom were drowned, including the captain, whose body was 
not recovered until the following spring. One of the men 
saved, Mr. John Lewis, lived only to perish with cold the next 
winter in Boston Bay, while in an open dory on a fishing trip. 
The other vessel was a coaster from Boston, the Sadie and 



U TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

Lillie, Capt. Harding, who lost his life, the crew being saved. 
We have relics from both vessels at the Museum at Pemaquid 
Beach. Many vessels and hardy sailors have ended their 
career in this vicinity since the old Archangel perished here 
in 1635, the first to be cast away on the New England coast. 

As we sail out into Johns Bay from the ' Thread of Life," 
we have sailed nearly around the village of Christmas Cove, 
giving us a fine view of the rough, rugged sea-washed coast, 
dotted over with many fine summer cottages, and the large 
hotel called the Holly Inn, all very conspicuous by their high 
elevation upon the solid rock foundation of this island. 

Another very beautiful island now comes in view, which 
belongs to a school teacher who resides in Somerville, Mass., 
on which is a fine cottage that she occupies during her 
summer vacation. This is called Birch Island on account 
of the many white birch trees growing upon it. Between 
this long, narrow island and Rutherfords is a splendid sheet 
of water, (called by some the " Grave Yard,") where small 
boats can lay the year round in perfect safety from all storms 
that may rage just beyond it, in the Bay. At the south end of 
the harbor is a thick growth of trees and bushes named the 

Heron's Nest." To fully enjoy this beautiful land-locked 
sheet of water one should enter it at the north end, near the 
Holly Inn and sail or row through the whole length of it, 
coming out at the narrow passage at the north end into Johns 
Bay. At low water its natural beauty is to be seen at the best 
advantage, as the water is shallow so the rough rocks and 
ledges and a variety of sea vegetation and many fish are to be 
seen. 

As we pass Birch Island on our left we come in view of the 
most conspicuous part of Rutherfords Island, called Otis Head. 
This high, rugged shore, with its rough granite ledges, boulders 
and sturdy evergreen trees, with landlocked creeks and coves, 
all form an interesting place to visit. From a great square 
tower on the summit of this hill a grand view of the surround- 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 25 

ing scenery is to be had. This has been erected recently by 
Mr. Samuel A. Miles, of New York City, who, by his efforts 
of the past eight years, has been gradually adding to this spot 
of natural beauty by erecting a fine mansion on the summit, 
building roads to the north and south to connect with the 
steamer landings at Christmas Cove and South Bristol. He 
has ornamented the roadways and other accessible spots with 
thrifty fruit trees and rare flowers, giving many people em- 
ployment in that vicinity. 

As we sail straight across the bay toward the large island 
seen ahead called Johns Island, (named by Capt. John Smith, 
also the bay and village, when he came here in 16] 4, appointed 
Admiral of New England,) we have a clear view for several 
miles up the bay on the west side which, as it grows narrower, 
is called Johns River to distinguish it from the wider portion 
near the ocean. On its western shores are places that have 
figured principally in the past history of Pemaquid as well as 
those figuring in its present. The first place of interest above 
Otis Head is a narrow passageway called the Gut." This 
waterway forms the northern boundary of Rutherfords Island, 
some half mile in length, connecting this bay with the Dam- 
ariscotta River, before mentioned, which boats and small 
steamers often traverse on their way from one village to 
another on these shores, South Bristol being located at the 
farther entrance, and Witch Island, formerly called Davis, at 
the east entrance. 

A small island lies just south of Witch, now the summer 
home of Mr, Broughton of Massachusetts, and was formerly 
owned by Uncle Tommy Gamage," whose wife named it 
the Little Gem." He with his little row boat used to ferry 
commercial travelers and others, across the bay to Pemaquid 
and other villages, before naphtha boats and steamers were in- 
troduced into these waters. "Witch Island contains about 16 
acres of well wooded land and, in connection with Little Gem, 
is so located that it forms a good harbor at the east end of this 



26 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

passage. It has been owned since 1887 by Mr. Daniel Chit- 
tenden, " Uncle Dan," and his wife, Grace Courtland, called 
the " Witch of Wall Street," of New York City, as she was at 
one time financial editor of the Wall Street Daily News, and 
Uncle Dan was connected with another journal there. 

About forty years ago there was quite an extensive business 
carried on at this place, that of trying out small fish called 
Porgies, or Menhaden, once very numerous on the coast of 
Maine during the summer months, and depended upon for bait 
by the fishermen to catch larger fish. They were caught in 
great numbers and tried out for the oil and scrap they furn- 
ished, the oil being used in dressing leather and mixing with 
paint oil, and the scrap to mix in fertilizers. Now those fish 
seldom come this way further than Cape Cod. There were five 
establishments for trying out the oil located at this place. To- 
day there are but slight indications of this former industry: a 
few stumps of former wharf piling and some of the stone foun- 
dations of the buildings are all that are now visible. Many 
other places along the Maine coast where this business once 
flourished and the inhabitants thrived by it are abandoned, the 
factories and wharves fallen into decay and the steamers and 
their crews who made the business lively, have followed the 
industry to more southern waters, where they still find em- 
ployment as captains, pilots, engineers and cooks on the many 
boats in the business there. 

The next point of interest is just beyond Witch Island. At 
the head of a little cove is an old burying ground walled in 
with roughly laid stone, so thickly overgrown with large trees 
in and about the yard that it cannot be seen from the water's 
edge. An investigation will show that of about one hundred 
graves marked mostly by natural, rough stones, but very few 
have any names or dates to indicate who were laid there. I 
have been informed by aged people living in this vicinity that 
in ancient times people were carried in boats from Pemaquid 




A Load of Porgies at Pemaquid 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 27 

to this place for burial. All about the head of this cove are 
located summer cottages built by Mr. King. 

Passing on to the next cove, called McFarland's, we find one 
of the pretty little nooks and corners for which old Pemaquid 
is noted; — a sand and pebble beach, a verdant field sloping 
to the sunny south, at the water's edge grass-covered mounds 
of crumbling shells from which have been taken bones of the 
Indian and wild animals, with many fine implements of the 
former; — a boat shop operated by Addison McFarland, and 
several dwelling houses, the pleasant homes of the present 
settlers and a few summer visitors. This pretty little cove, 
beach and field are bounded on the east and west by ridges of 
upheaved granitic ledges, partially covered with soil and vege- 
tation. 

The next high land up the river is called High Island. A 
large lobster pound is located there, owned by Capt. Isaac 
Harvey, of Boston. There is another on the opposite side of 
the river, formerly operated by Capt. Alexander Kennedy, and 
now owned by the United States Government and used to re- 
tain egg, or seed lobsters until the eggs mature, which requires 
about eleven months from the time of depositing on the nipper - 
ets by the mother. They cling there as though glued, to the 
number of from fifteen to sixty thousand. When nearly ma- 
tured the lobsters are taken to the Government Hatchery at 
Boothbay Harbor, the eggs stripped off, and after bursting 
their shells, are distributed along the sea coast by the small 
steamer Gannett, Capt. Geo. Greenleaf. This steamer was 
formerly owned by Mr. Albert Davenport of Boston. She 
was named the Careita, and on her he used to take his many 
friends to sail from Squirrel Island to the places of interest 
along the coast. She was then sailed by Capt. Seth Rowe, of 
Boothbay Harbor. 

There are several of these pounds scattered along the coast 
of Maine. They are artificial ponds of salt water formed by 
partially damming up small coves to retain tide water sufficient 



28 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

to keep large numbers of lobsters alive for several months. 
The dealers purchase them when plenty and cheap, and retain 
them to sell when scarce and high. The capacity of these 
pounds varies from ten to one hundred fifty thousand each. 
Capt. A. D. McLain of Pemaquid Beach, and Robert H. Oram, 
formerly carried on the business of catching small fish, princi- 
pally herring, in traps, on Johns River, supplying the large 
fishing schooners of Portland, Gloucester, Boston and other 
places with bait for their trips to the Georgies Banks and other 
fishing shoals on our New England coast. Capt. McLain was 
drowned while engaged in this work by falling from his boat. 
The canning-factories use many of these small fish, and the 
cans are sometimes labeled Sardines," Brook Trout," etc. 
Excellent clams are found up this river, and many lobsters are 
also caught here. 

Along the high western ridge, opposite the head-waters of 
this river, are to be seen the fine dwellings formerly occupied 
by William Clark and William McClintock, but now by Robert 
Sproul and William Feeney of Boston. The cleared land of 
these farms extends to the water's edge. Mr. Clark has pointed 
out to me many cellars and other excavations, called pits," 
along the head-waters of this river, which were used by the 
first settlers, whose descendants, the Clarks and Drummonds, 
still reside in town, and the Norths, who now reside in Au- 
gusta, Maine, and who often in summer time visit the site of 
the homes of their ancestors. 

Now as the steamer approaches Johns Island, coming straight 
from the " Thread of Life," we will give further notice to that 
which attracts our attention : 

The many little row and sail boats, now propelled by naph- 
tha, which we have observed all along our course, are those of 
the lobster-catchers ; their small buoys hold up the lines that 
lead to their traps at the bottom of the river and ocean. Many 
people along the coast follow this occupation. As we pass 
up the east side of this island we see that about one-third of it 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 29 

is covered with trees on the south end, with an open field on 
the north. It contains in all about eighteen acres, has a fine 
spring of water under the bank, at the head of a cove, which 
we pass closely, and which forms a harbor for small boats at 
high tide. Among its evergreens are the prettiest beds of 
moss I ever saw. A vein of trap rock, perhaps twenty feet 
wide divides it, running east and west across the island, where 
at each end the sea has washed out many cubical fragments, 
leaving narrow inlets with steep and rugged walls that cannot 
fail to interest the student of nature who makes a close exami- 
nation of them when the tide is out. One walled cellar still 
remains near the little cove, where lived, at different times, 
Solomon Davis, Ezekiel Thurston and William McLain. Many 
of the population of Pemaquid Beach to-day are decendants of 
Mr. McLain. This island was formerly owned by Mr. J. W. 
Partridge, and was his favorite pasture for sheep, where they 
could be kept secure without the expense of fencing. A battle 
between the Indians and English soldiers once took place here, 
in which twenty-five whites were killed. Crumbling mounds 
of shells, bones and stone implements found, tell us that the 
red man once dwelt here. The largest stone tomahawk in 
possession of the Pemaquid Improvement Association was 
ploughed up on this island. Of recent years Sabbath-school 
picnic parties from villages near, with baked and chowdered 
clams, lobsters, green corn and other refreshments, and with 
baseball and such games for amusement, have been enjoyed. 

Next in line is Beaver Island, with a few spruce trees yet 
standing. Two more barren ledges between that and the 
mainland complete the southern out-cropping of this central 
peninsula spoken of above, which forms the western boundary 
of Pemaquid Outer Harbor. 

Upon the extreme end of this peninsula is located the 
unique summer home of the noted actress, Mrs. Annie Russell 
York and her husband. They, with many of their friends, 
occupy this locality for two or three months each summer, 



30 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

where they are entertained both in doors and out. Their tea 
house and lawn, beautiful garden of rare flowers and shrubs, 
salt-water swimming pool and pleasant nooks shaded by the 
natural growth of evergreen, and with a naphtha launch for 
pleasure and fishing trips at will, they have ample means for 
enjoying their summer vacation. 

On our right are two more ledges, known as Knowles' Rock 
and Fish Point, which forms the south and eastern boundary of 
this fine outer harbor of Pemaquid. This point was formerly 
occupied by a large porgy factory and other buildings, with an 
extensive business requiring five or six large steamboats and 
many men. It is now occupied by the Hotel Waneta, kept 
by Mrs. Roxanna Varley. 

There is little to tell of Beaver Island, except that in recent 
years it has been used for a summer resort for a few sheep, 
two at a time being all its scant vegetation would supply with 
food, and naught but the dew to quench their thirst. In an- 
cient times, as tradition tells, when the Fort was attacked by 
three French frigates of war, one or more of them sought refuge 
behind this island to load their cannons, and then, with a 
cable attached to a kedge, or small anchor, hauled out the 
frigate, and after discharging a broadside at the fort, retreated 
to load again. 

Crossing Pemaquid Outer Harbor in a northeasterly direc- 
tion, our steamer makes its landing at Pemaquid Beach. Here 
we will land and continue our investigation of the history of 
this once noted place. Pemaquid is noted for what it has 
been, more than what it is today. 



CHAPTER III. 



When was Pemaquid First Settled ? A Mystery Yet Un- 
solved. 
ONE of the mysteries concerning this place is the exact 
date when the first house was built, the first street laid 
out, or paved. The first settlers wisely clung to their ships, 
where they were always at home. No emergency of starvation 
threatened their extermination, as at Plymouth, for from their 
fishing grounds beneath them they could at will extract the 
choicest food to be obtained, ranging from the fine oyster, 
which was once abundant in this vicinity, but now nearly ex- 
tinct because the water is colder than formerly, to the great 
fat cod." Gradually those who wished to settle on shore 
cleared away the great pines, spruces, oak and birch, that cov- 
ered the soil in this vicinity, and erected permanent homes ; 
slowly working back from the rivers, harbors and bays, which 
were formerly their highways of travel. 

On the west bank of the Pemaquid River are three cellars, 
the first one near the water, where one of the early settlers 
made his home. Clearing the land around him and extending 
farther inland, he moved his house to the site where still is to 
be seen the second cellar, and so on until the third settlement 
was made near what is now the public highway. 

Our history is unlike that of Plymouth and many other 
places. There was no one here who, like Governor Bradford, 
kept a journal of passing events on shore ; or, if there was, the 
records may have been destroyed during the many struggles of 
the three contending nations which captured the place and 



32 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

each for a while held control of it. This being on the eastern 
outskirts of New England, and claimed as part of Acadia by 
the French Catholics, was for more than a century the con- 
tending ground between them, the Indians, and the English 
Protestant settlers. 

In possession of the author is a copy of a map found among 
the archives of Spain, of Point Popham, at the mouth of the 
Kennebec, showing a plan of Fort St. George, which was built 
there by the Popham Colony in 1607-8. Spain watched with 
jealous eye the early English settlements here, on what they 
claimed as their territory. Zuniga, ambassador of King Philip 
III. of Spain, to England, reported in 1606 the project of 
Chief Justice Popham, whom he designates as a great Puri- 
tan." On the 5th of March, 1610, Zuniga reports : I am 
told vessels are loading at Plymouth (Eng.) with men to people 
the country they have taken, and that colonies from Exeter 
and Plymouth are on two large rivers." 

In 1613 England, replying to charges of Spain concerning 
the above recorded settlements, through Carleton, Secretary of 
State, declared that she had no possessions in the premises ; 
that England by discovery and actual possession had paramount 
title, through two colonies, whereof the latter is yet there re- 
maining." This agrees with Captain Smith's account in 
1614. 

France also has many records of Old Pemaquid, and on their 
charts, like those of Spain, the territory now called New Eng- 
land was marked New France. A globe three hundred years 
old, found at Paris, and another at New York, brought from 
Spain, shows this part of the world marked New France on the 
former, and New Spain on the latter. 

It is not strange that our scholars and historians have failed 
to obtain the records across the water pertaining to this place, 
those of France not being accessible to a person with the influ- 
ence of Hon. J. P. Baxter of Portland, who is President of both 
the Maine and New England Historical and Genealogical Soci- 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 33 

eties, without a guard to accompany him. Only recently other 
plans and records have been obtained from French and Eng- 
lish documents that will be mentioned in connection with forts 
erected here. In this country I have found history relating to 
Old Pemaquid extending from Jamestown, Va., along the sea 
coast to North Haven, Maine. Only a few threads from each 
locality can be woven into this sketch as no ordinary volume 
would contain the detail of all the documents I have fortu- 
nately been able to examine during the past twenty years. 
The fact is, we have not known exactly where to look for the 
history of Pemaquid, and a vast amount being disguised under 
some other title, it cannot be readily found. Over thirty 
books and manuscripts are to be had at the Boston and State 
Libraries with some history pertaining to Pemaquid. 



CHAPTER IV. 



Pemaquid As It Was and As It Is. 

THE story we have of Pemaquid gives an account of Capt. 
George Waymouth's visit to this place with his ship, 
Archangel, and twenty-nine men, in 1605. Having taken a 
glance at Pemaquid as it appears to-day, as we approach it 
from the west by water, let us see how it looked to the early 
voyagers who came here from the east in 1605 and 1607. 

Soon after coming to Pemaquid in 1888, I met Mr. William 
Howard, then stopping with his family at the Jamestown 
Hotel, who told me of a book in the possession of Mr. Daniel 
Penniman, of New Harbor, which he kindly presented to me. 
I was happy to find that it contained much information con- 
cerning the early history of Pemaquid which I was in search 
of. This little book is entitled: Rosier's Narrative of Way- 
mouth's Voyage to the Coast of Maine in 1605." This inter- 
esting narrative was first furnished by Professor Sparks from 
England in 1843, and abounds with glowing and truthful de- 
scriptions of our coast; the manners and customs of the natives, 
etc. The visits of the Norsemen previously spoken of, the 
passing fishermen of Spain, France, Portugal and England, 
who visited these shores, some as early as 1517; the voyage of 
Bartholomew Gosnold in 1602, and the voyage of Capt. 
Martin Pring in 1603, are all of general historic interest, but 
they do not refer to Pemaquid in particular. 

Spain and Portugal once claimed all the New World by 
gift of the Pope of Rome; but England and France refused to 
acquiesce in this division of the earth's surface. It is said that 
the king of France, when he heard of the agreement of Spain 




Pemaquid Village, looking East from the Masthead of the Schooner 
W. H. Moody, as She lay in the Outer Harbor 




The White Crescent Sand Beach at Pemaquid 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 35 

and Portugal, pleasantly remarked, I should be glad to see 
the claws in Adam's will, which makes that continent their 
inheritants exclusively." England and France afterwards 
combined to break the power of Spain, then the mistress of 
the seas," and by the destruction of her war fleet, called the 
Spanish Armada, in 1588, for a time stayed the brutal hand of 
Spain, which for years had planned the cruel torture and 
destruction of all those who opposed her. Then those two 
nations who before had feared to claim this territory, became 
bitter rivals, and here on this historic ground of Pemaquid, 
was waged the bitterest warfare of their strife, continuing from 
the period of their first attempts at settlement on these shores 
to the close of the French and Indian Wars in 17.59. The 
wily French Jesuit and priest secured the service of the natives 
of old Ma-voo-shen, the Indian name by which most of the 
territory of this state was first known. 

The French were especially active, and in 1603 Henry IV. 
granted a charter of Acadia, embracing a large part of our 
territory now known as New England, to DeMonts a French- 
man, who was appointed lieutenant-general of the new terri- 
tory. He came with his company first to the St. Croix River, 
fortified on Neutral Island and remained one winter, then 
removed to Port Royal (now Annapolis, Nova Scotia), and 
begun a settlement which became so important to the French 
holdings in America. 

The effect of this was to excite the English to new 
exertions; and in the year of 1605 occured the memorable 
voyage of Capt. George Waymouth. Capt. Waymouth sailed 
from England, March 31. Our island of Monhegan was the 
first land which they saw on reaching this coast. After 
anchoring their ship at the north of it they landed to obtain 
supplies of wood and water. They describe it as wooded, 
grown with fir, birch, oak and beech. On the verge grew 
gooseberries, strawberries, wild peas, and wild rose bushes, and 
much fowl of different kinds bred upon the shore and rocks." 



36 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

While we were on shore, our men aboard with a few hooks 
got about 30 (thirty) great cods and haddocks, which gave us 
a taste of the great plenty of fish, which we found afterward 
where so ever we went along the coast." Capt. Waymouth 
then took his ship in toward the mainland and found a good 
harbor, well protected by several large islands, which have 
been known in the past as St. George's, but are now called 
George's Islands. They stopped about these islands until the 
16th of June, sounding the depths of the water near them, 
and exploring a river, which they named Pentecost, now 
known as George's River, lying directly between George's 
Islands and the mountains which they described, now called 
the Blue hills or Camden Mountains. They there built a 
pinnace or small boat, felled trees, dug a well and sowed peas 
and barley to test the fertility of the soil. 

Wednesday, the 29th of May, they set up a Cross on one of 
these islands. On the 30th they were visited by Indians from 
other islands and mainland. These visits were returned by 
the white people and a pleasant intercourse with much traffic 
continued until the departure of their ship. He states: for 
knives, glasses, combs and other trifles to the value of four or 
five shillings, we had forty good beaver's skins, otter's skins, 
sables and other small skins which we knew not how to call." 
They were earnestly requested to trade with their Bashaba " 
or king, and bring their ship up to his house," but the offer 
was declined. In a few days they became very friendly and 
would come on board the ship to eat, seeming much pleased 
with the food given them. The narrator says, I noted they 
would eat nothing raw, neither fish or flesh." They are 
described as being very witty and ingenious. 

'The shape of their body is very proportionable, they are 
well countenanced, not very tall nor big, but in stature like to 
us; they paint their bodies with black, their faces, some with 
red ? some with black, and some with blue. 

Their clothing is beaver skins, or deer skins, cast over 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 37 

them like a mantle, and hanging down to their knees, made 
fast together upon the shoulder with leather; some of them 
had sleeves, most had none; some had buskins of such leather 
sewed. 

They suffer no hair to grow on their faces, but on their 
heads very long and very black, which those who have wives, 
bind up behind with a leather string, in a long round knot. 

They seemed all very civil and merry, showing tokens of 
much thankfulness for those things we gave them. We found 
them there (as after) a people of exceeding good invention, 
quick understanding and ready capacity. 

Their canoes are made without any iron, of the bark of a 
birch tree, strengthened within with ribs and hoops of wood, 
in so good fashion, with such excellent ingenious art, as they 
are able to bear seven or eight persons, far exceeding any in 
the Indies. 

This we noted as we went along, they in their canoe with 
three oars, would at their will go ahead of us and about us 
when we rowed with eight oars strong; such was their swift- 
ness by reason of the lightness and artificial composition of 
their canoe and oars." 

The women are described as follows: 

Here we saw four of their women, who stood behind them 
as desirous to see us, but not willing to be seen; for before 
when so ever we came on shore, they retired into the woods, 
whether it were in regard of their own natural modesty, being 
covered, only as the men with the foresaid beaver's skins, or 
by the commanding jealousy of their husbands, which we 
rather suspected, because it is an inclination much noted to be 
in savages; wherefore we would by no means seem to take any 
special notice of them. They were very well favored in pro- 
portion of countenance, though colored black, low of stature, 
and fat, bareheaded as the men, wearing their hair long; they 
had two little male children of a year and a half old as we 
judged, very fat and of good countenance, which they love 



38 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

tenderly, all naked except their legs, with which covered with 
their leather buskin sewed, fastened with straps to a girdle 
about their waist, which they gird very straight, and is decked 
round about with little round pieces of red copper; to these I 
gave chains, and bracelets, glasses, and other trifles, which the 
savages seemed to accept with great kindness." 

In reference to the five Pemaquid Indians captured on this 
voyage, the narrator says: 

Further I have thought fit to add some things worthy to 
be regarded, which we have observed from the savages since 
we took them. First although at the time when we surprised 
them, they made their best resistance, not knowing our 
purpose, nor what we were, nor how we meant to use them; 
yet after perceiving by their kind usage we intend them no 
harm, they have never since seemed discontented with us, but 
very tractable, loving and willing by their best means to 
satisfy us in anything we demand of them, by words or signs 
for their understanding; neither have they at any time been at 
the least discord among themselves; insomuch as we have not 
seen them angry, but merry; and so kind, as if you give any- 
thing to one of them, he will distribute part to everyone of the 
rest. We have brought them to understand some English, 
and we understand much of their language; so we are able to 
ask them many things. And this we have observed, that if 
we show them anything, and ask them if they have it in their 
country, they will tell you if they have, and the use of it, the 
difference from ours in bigness, color, or form; but if they have 
it not, be it a thing never so precious, they will deny the 
knowledge of it. 

They have names for many stars which they will show in 
the firmament. 

They show great reverence to their king, and are in great 
subjection to their governors, and they will show a great 
respect to any we tell them are our commanders. 

They show the manner of how they make bread of their 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 39 

Indian wheat, and how they make butter and cheese of the 
milk they have of the reindeer and fallow deer, which they 
have tame as we have cows. 

They have excellent colors. . And having seen our indigo, 
they make show of it, or of some other like thing which 
maketh as good a blue. 

One special thing is their manner of killing the whale, 
which they call Pow-da-we; and will describe his form; how 
he bloweth up the water; and that he is twelve fathoms long; 
and that they go in company of their king with a multitude of 
their boats, and strike him with a bone made in fashion of a 
harping iron fastened to a rope, which they made great and 
strong of the bark of trees, which they veer out after him; 
then all their boats come about him, and as he riseth above 
water, with their arrows they shoot him to death; when they 
have killed him and dragged him to shore, they call all their 
chief lords together, and sing a song of joy; and those chief 
lords whom they call sagamores, divide the spoil, and give to 
every man a share, which pieces so distributed, they hang up 
about their houses for provisions; and when they boil them, 
they blow off the fat, and put to their peas, maize, and other 
pulse which they eat." 

In referring to the abundance offish and their manner of 
catching them, he writes: 

We drew with a small net of twenty fathoms very nigh 
the shore; we got about thirty very good and great lobsters, 
many rock fish, some plaice and other small fishes, and fishes 
called lumps, very pleasant to the taste; and we generally 
observed, that all the fish, of what kind so ever we took, were 
well fed, fat, and sweet in taste. 

All along the shore, and some space within, where the 
wood hindereth not, grow plentifully, raspberries, gooseberries, 
strawberries, roses, currants, wild vines, angelica. 

Within the island grow wood of sundry sorts, some very 
great, and all tall, as birch, beech, ash, maple, spruce, cherry 



40 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

tree, yew, oak, very great and good, fir tree, out of which 
issueth turpentine in so marvelous plenty, and so sweet, as our 
chirurgeon (Physician) and others affirmed they never saw so 
good in England. We pulled off much gum, congealed on the 
outside of the bark, which smelled like frankincense. This 
would be a great benefit for making tar and pitch." 

The capture of five Pemaquid Indians with two canoes, with 
all their bows and arrows, was an event of the uttermost 
importance on this voyage. The kidnapping of these Indians 
seemed an act of vandalism unworthy of men who professed to 
be Christians, as they did. Rosier claims that the capture was 
for the benefit of both nations, that on learning the language 
of each other, it would be a ' public good and zeal of promul- 
gating God's holy church, by planting Christianity, to be the 
sole intent of the honorable setters forth of this discovery." 

The first account of this voyage published in England on 
their return, together with the five Indian captives, Nahanada, 
sagamore or commander; Amoret, Skicowaros, Maneddo, 
gentlemen; Saffacomoit, a servant; created widespread interest 
in that country. On his return, Capt. Waymouth first landed 
at Plymouth, England, where Sir Ferdinando Gorges was then 
captain; and he was so much interested in the Indians that he 
took three of them into his own family. Many years after- 
wards, when writing his Brief Narration " of his efforts to 
colonize New England, he says: This accident must be 
acknowledged the means under God of putting a foot and 
giving life to all our plantations." 

The account of Waymouth's voyage, as first published, has 
puzzled those historians who depended upon that alone, be- 
cause the longitude of the locality and the course of the river 
and mountains from their ship, while at anchor at Pentecost 
Harbor, were purposely omited to prevent their rivals from 
learning of the precise locality of their discovery. Now all 
doubt has been set at rest by the publication of that in- 
formation which was kept at the time by Capt. Waymouth's 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 41 

log-book, so that now it has been proven that Monhegan 
Island (then called St. George) was the first island discovered 
and landed upon; George's Islands (afterward named St. 
George's by the Popham Colony in 1607) the first harbor 
entered, where the Cross was set up; George's River leading 
up to Thomaston, the first river entered; the Camden Moun- 
tains, the ones which the voyagers had constantly in view." 
Another Cross was erected 12 miles up the river at Thomaston. 
These were to establish the claim of the English people to this 
territory as the discoverers in 1605. The celebration of the 
three hundredth anniversary of Capt. George Waymouth's 
voyage to the coast of Maine in 1605, was observed on July 
6th, 1905, at St. George's Island and at Thomaston by the 
Maine Historical Society, assisted by the government revenue 
cutter Woodbury from Portland, and the United States monitor 
Arkansas. 

A stone cross was erected on the island with proper in- 
scription, and one of wood at Thomaston; there also a large 
boulder was set up on the common, bearing a bronze tablet. 
Interesting services were held at the island at the unveiling of 
the cross, participated in by visitors from the government 
steamers, the Bristol from Pemaquid, the Castine and G. W. 
Butman from Rockland, with sail and row boats, with many 
people from east and west. 

Prayer was offered by Rev. C. E. Gould, an address of much 
historical interest was given by Mr. George Arthur Smith. 
At the conclusion of the exercises on Allen's island, the 
visitors from the Woodbury returned to the cutter, where an 
elegant lunch was served by the General Knox Chapter, D. A. R. 
At the close of the lunch the Woodbury, Arkansas, and a 
large fleet of smaller crafts proceeded up the river. The sail 
up the river (the St. George's) of Waymouth's discovery was 
delightful, being marked by frequent salutes fired by interested 
parties at different points along the shore. An interesting 
feature of this trip was a boat loaded with some fifteen people, 



42 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

dressed to represent the early English mariners, as they 
appeared when sailing up this river three hundred years ago, 
with Dr. W. J. Jameson of Thomaston as Capt. Waymouth and 
three Indians for pilots. 

At Thomaston a salute was fired from the Woodbury in 
honor of Governor Cobb. A procession was then formed on 
shore headed by Waymouth's crew, the Indians and about one 
hundred and twenty-five school children, with the Camden 
Cornet Band at the head. At the Mall about two thousand 
people had assembled to witness the exercises connected with 
the unveiling of the memorial erected by the town. Hon. 
Joseph E. Moore presided, and gave the address of welcome. 
The invocation was given by Rev. W. A. Newcomb D. D. of 
Thomaston. 

He was followed by other speakers, Hon. James P. Baxter, 
President of the Maine Historical and New England Historic 
Genealogical Societies, and Hon. Willian T. Cobb, Governor 
of Maine. At the close of the addresses, the memorial tablet 
was unveiled by Miss Ruth Flint Linnell of Thomaston. The 
tablet bears the following inscription: — 

To Commemorate the Voyage of 

Captain 

George Waymouth 

To the Coast of Maine 

in 1605 

His Discovery and Exploration of the 

St. George's River 

And Planting a Cross on the 

Northerly Shore of this Harbor 

Where the River " Trended Westward " 

The Earliest Known Claim of 

Right of Possession by Englishmen 

On New England Soil 

This Tablet is Erected by the 

Town of Thomaston 

1905. 

Mr. J. B. Keating, British Vice Consul at Portland then 




Hon. John B. Keating, British Vice Consul at Portland 



TWENTY YEARS AX PEMAQUID 

deliverer, an adzzresi anz ~as zz_.z~ez zy Geit"i. . :snua L. 
Chamberlain. The closing address being made by Hon. 
Charles Z LirZedeld ::' Z: ckland. Music- by the band and 
ringing by the children aided to the interest of the occasion. 
Refreshments ~ ere served in a public hall during the azzemz-zu. 
and the historical program continned by addresses in the 
evening by Mr. Baxter and Dr. Zurrare. a: ^ar-' Hall. 
which "if cretti-7 dcz::z:7Z "zzz Eug.lsz anz American nags 
and evergreens. The exercises closed there by the rendering 
of a delightful solo by Mrs. Ernestine Fish of Boston, and a 
poem, entitled " Westward to England."' by Miss Rita Creigh- 
ton Smith of Thomaston. 

All of these addresses, with an account of the celebration, 
fill a pamphlet of over fifty pages, which can be found in the 
Portland library, entitled Waymonth Tercentenary. I deem 
the following note found on page 35, which contains a part of 
Mr, Baxter's address. e~ zeedingly interesting to investigators 
of our history: 

lac: Gezrge Wivmcmh had been snzpzsez zz :t - ::;;z 
old mariner until I discovered some years ago, in what is 
known as the King's library in the Britisri Museum, a manu- 
script volume by him entitled the " Jewel of Arres " which he 
presented :: :1::.; dames 1 n:z Izur bet :re his rzya^e z 
. Maine. This volmne had remained nearly three centuries 
unnoticed, and I had it reproduced and bound precisely like 
the original volume. A glance at it will show that the author 
was an educated man and well versed in the science of his 
time." 

This brief account of that celebration should not be closed 
without reference to the spirit of good will and kindness, and 
the deep interest -~-rj one seemed to take in the whole 
proceedings, by the display of Eng lish and American Bags and 
other emblems with which they decorated their places of busi- 
ness and private residences. 

A ielightbul indzrma". reception ~ as given ;n tzeir iz.:ui-- 



44 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

ton homes, especially by Dr. and Mrs. J. E. Walker at their 
beautiful colonial home. The spacious rooms, fragrant with 
the scent of innumerable roses and pinks, and bright with 
English and American flags, the brilliant uniforms of the 
naval officers mingling with the lighter colors of the dresses 
of the ladies, presented a picture long to be remembered with 
pleasure. 

It is well not to forget the friendly natives of this locality 
which three centuries ago occupied this land, with the wild 
game then abundant, when great forests covered the shores, 
which caused Capt. John Smith who visited here in 1614, to 
exclaim I wonder how so great trees can grow on the Islands 
and main of this country." Now this fair land is nearly 
covered with the verdant vegetation planted by the white man, 
and the race that met them so long ago, and lived in peace 
with them for more than fifty years, have passed beyond. 




Hon. James P. Baxter 



CHAPTER V. 



An Account of the Historical Celebration at the Mouth of 
the Kennebec River in 1907 

AS a result of that ' glowing narrative " of Waymouth's 
voyage to the coast of Maine, with the exhibition of 
the Indians brought from there, was the chartering of the 
company for colonizing America called the Council of Virginia. 
The charter authorized the formation of two companies, called 
the London and Plymouth companies, the latter being the 
only one which will concern us, being authorized to settle 
this part of the country which was then known as North Vir- 
ginia. 

During the year of 1606, the Lord Chief Justice of England 
Sir John Popham, and several other gentlemen deeply inter- 
ested in the discoveries already made on this coast, sent two 
vessels to attempt further discoveries. The one in which Sir 
John Popham was interested, was captured by the Spanish. 
But the spring of 1607 opened with new and better prospects. 
The settlement of Jamestown, Va., was begun by the London 
company. The Popham colony then made an attempt, under 
the auspices of the Plymouth company, to found a plantation 
at the mouth of the Kennebec river, then called the Sagada- 
hoc. This expedition sailed from Plymouth, June 10th, 1607, 
in two ships, the larger one called the Mary and John," 
and the smaller one called a fly boat, named the ' Gift of 
God." Beside their crews they had ' one hundred and 
twenty persons for planters." Comparing this with the 
Jamestown, Va., colony on the Newport, May, 1607, of one 
hundred and five passengers, and the Mayflower of December 



46 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

20, 1620, with one hundred and two Pilgrims, we note that 
the Pemaquid colony was the largest both in number of ships 
and people. They left Plymouth, Eng., on the last day of 
May and sighted Monhegan on the 6th of August, and found 
anchorage by the George's islands, probably agreed on as their 
place of rendezvous before leaving England. On the follow- 
ing day they sought a more secure harbor, doubtless that of 
Capt. Waymouth, because they found the Cross he set up, and 
at once made preparations for an excursion westward to the 
Pemaquid river. 

The words of the narrator best tell the story: 

About midnight Capt. Gilbert caused his shipp's boat to 
be mannde with fourteen persons and the Indian Skidwares 
(brought to England by Capt. Weymouth,) and rowed to the 
westward from their ship, to the river of Pemaquid, which 
they found to be four leagues distant from the shipp where 
she rode. The Indian brought them to the salvages' houses, 
where they found a hundred men, women and children, and 
their commander, or sagamore, among them, named Nahanada, 
who had been brought likewise into England by Capt. Way- 
mouth, and returned thither by Capt. Hanham, setting forth 
for those parts and some part of Canada the year before; at 
their first coming the Indians betooke them to their armes, 
their bowes and arrowes; but after Nahanada had talked with 
Skidwares and perceaved that they were English men, he 
caused them to lay aside their bowes and arrowes, and he him- 
self came unto them and ymbraced, and made them much 
welcome, and entertayned them with much chierfulness, and 
did they likewise him, and after two howers thus interchange- 
ably spent, they returned abourd again. 

Sunday 9th, the chief of both the shipps, with the greatest 
part of all the company, landed on the island where the crosse 
stood, the which they called St. George's Island, and heard a 
sermon delivered unto them by Mr. Seymour, his preacher, and 
soe returned abourd againe. 




Site of Old Fort and House at Beginning of Excavation of the Front Wall. 

Edgemere and Bayview Houses in the Distance. Across the Outer and 

Inner Harbors, at the Mouth of the Pemaquid River 




Important Plan of Fort Popham. Built at the Mouth of the Kennebec River 
in 1697-8. by the English Colony which First Landed at Pemaquid 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 47 

Monday 10th, Capt. Popham manned his shallop, and Capt, 
Gilbert his boat, with fifty persons in both, and departed for 
the river of Pemaquid, carrieing with them Skidwares, and 
arrived in the mouthe of the river: there came forth Nahanada, 
with all his company of Indians, with their bowes and arrowes 
in their handes. They, being before his dwelling house, 
would willingly have all our people come ashore, using them 
all in kind sort after their manner; nevertheless, after one 
hower they all suddenly withdrew themselves into the woodes, 
nor was Skidwares desirous to return with them any more 
aboard. Our people loth to proffer any violence into them by 
drawing him by force, suffered him to stay behind, promising 
to return to them the day following, but he did not. After 
his departure they imbarked themselves and rowed to the 
further side of the river, and there remayned on shoare for the 
night. 

They returned to their shipps toward the evening, where 
they still road under St. George Island. 

They weyed anchors and sett saile to goe for the river of 
Sachadehoc; they had little wynd and kept their course west." 

The extract from Strachey is of deep interest to us as we 
learn that one at least, of the Indians, seized by Waymouth 
two years preyious, was a Sagamore of Old Pemaquid. He is 
called Nahanada, Tahanedo, and Dehaneda — which are only 
different ways of spelling the same name. His character as 
chief whenever brought before us, appears to good advantage. 
After residing in England about a year he returned in 1606. 
His kind reception, with that of his subjects, to the Popham 
colony, was quite in contrast with his treatment by Capt. 
Waymouth. We next hear of Nahanada October 3d, when he 
makes his appearance again at the settlement at the mouth of 
the Kennebec, attended by his wife, and having in company a 
brother of the bashaba, Amenquin, another Sagamore, and his 
ever faithful attendant, Skidwares. This time they remained 
some three days, one of them being the Sabbath. Being in- 



48 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

vited by the president, they attended public worship, behav- 
ing in all respects with the most perfect propriety. At their 
departure, Popham, president of the colony, bestowed upon 
them some trifling presents, promising to visit in person the 
bashaba at Penobscot, and make arrangements for a regular 
trade. 

From the " Tercentenery " of the landing of the Popham 
Colony, we learn of a meeting held there to celebrate the 
event, on Aug. 29th, 1907. An address was given by Mr. 
James P. Baxter at that time, when much valuable information 
was obtained pertaining to this colony. On another page is 
a cut showing the site of the Fort and a plan of it, on which a 
Tablet has been erected to commemorate the event with the 
following inscription upon it: 

THE FIRST ENGLISH COLONY, 

ON THE SHORES OF NEW ENGLAND 

WAS FOUNDED HERE 

AUGUST 29 N. S. 1607 

UNDER 

GEORGE POPHAM 

This fort was called St. George's. 

The First Colony of the French on the New England shores 
was established by de Monts in 1604 east of the Penobscot 
river. This plan here shown of the Fort was found at Siman- 
cos, Spain, by the Hon. J. L. M. Curry, United States Minis- 
ter to Spain, in recent years. This was the beginning of 
English occupancy of New England, although not permanent. 
The beginning of ship building on the American coast by the 
construction of the ship Virginia. The beginning of self 
Government in the colonies, and it must have the respect 
which as Emerson says, Always belongs to first things." 



CHAPTER VI. 



The Voyage of Capt. John Smith of Pocahontas Fame. 

AFTER making a permanent settlement at Jamestown, 
Va., Smith was injured by an explosion of gun-powder 
in 1609, and returned to England for surgical aid. He 
was appointed Admiral of New England, and in 1614 with a 
small boat and eight men surveyed the New England coast 
from the mouth of the Penobscot River to Cape Cod, including 
our bay of Pemaquid and the harbor of Plymouth. He named 
New England in honor of Old England, Cape Ann, Charles 
River and Cape Elizabeth, which still retain the names he 
gave them. By request of Smith, Prince Charles of England, 
afterwards Charles I., named Pemaquid, St. John's town, and 
Monhegan, Batties Island. 

Smith had under his command a ship and bark with forty- 
five men. They came here to take whales, and make trials 
of a mine of gold and copper; they were not successful in 
either enterprise, but they secured a good quantity of codfish, 
and for a small sum purchased a large amount of furs of the 
Indians." Smith says, while his ships lay at Monhegan, 

right against him in the main was a ship of Sir Francis 
Popham," and forty leagues to the westward were two 
French ships, that had made then a great voyage by trade." 
This shows that at that period there was considerable inter- 
course between Europe and our Maine seacoast. 

Smith tells of a ship seen at New Harbor sent out by Sir 
Francis, son of George Popham, president of the colony, in 
command of Capt. Williams, and it is claimed this ship indi- 
cates the English were maintaining control of the territory. 



50 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

Some have said there are no good Indians, but I am proud 
of the record of ours of old Pemaquid. Capt. Smith again 
bears testimony to the good character of our Indian chief 
Nahanada and his friends, whom he affirms kindly assisted 
him whenever he desired them to. Smith says: The main 
assistance next God I had to this small number was my 
acquaintance among the salvadges, especially with Dohan- 
nida, (Nahanada) one of their greatest lords who had lived 
long in England." 

I submit the following for defence of Capt. Smith whose 
veracity for truth has been questioned by some historians 
within a few years past. The truth of the story of Pocahontas 
and Smith was never doubted till 1866, when the eminent 
antiquary, Dr. Charles Dean of Cambridge, in reprinting 
Smith's books, found that he had not spoken of it in his first 
book, which was published about 1618. John Clark Ridpath, 
author of one of our best histories of the United States says of 
Capt. Smith — ' His was a strange and wonderful career! 
John Smith was altogether the most noted man in the early 
history of America. There is no reason in the world for 
doubting the truth of this affecting and romantic story; one of 
the most marvelous and touching in the history of any nation." 
I have read many favorable accounts of Smith written by his 
contemporaries; will simply quote one by Thomas Carlton. 

I never knew a warrior yet, but thee, 

From wine, tobacco, dice, debts and oaths so free." 

Among the early charts of five different nations: the Eng- 
lish, French, Spanish, Portugese and Dutch, who were in 
early times struggling for a foothold upon this continent, I find 
upon examination, that of Capt. John Smith is far superior to 
that of any other. Smith's description of this part of the 
country, and the publication of his map of the coast, was an 
important event in our history. 



CHAPTER VII. 



Early Traffic at Pemaquid. 

CONSIDERABLE business was transacted along this coast 
with the fisheries and fur trade, which centered chiefly 
at Monhegan and Pemaquid, as we have evidence by the records 
of the number of ships sailing here annually from Europe. It 
has been determined that between the years 1607 and 1622, 
no less than 109 ships entered and cleared from the harbors 
of Pemaquid and its dependencies, where they did more or less 
business in the discharge and receipt of cargoes and commerce 
with Europe." The English ships employed in transporting 
emigrants to Virginia with their necessary supplies, found it 
for their interest, on their return, to call on this coast and 
obtain such return cargoes of fish and furs as the constantly 
increasing business of the country was able to afford. 

While the Pilgrims were struggling for life at Plymouth, 
and Conant was founding Cape Ann," says Thornton, Pema- 
quid was probably the busiest place on the coast." J. Win- 
gate Thornton of Massachusetts, was a reliable historian, and 
another quotation of his is worthy to be mentioned, which 
reads as follows: To Pemaquid we must look for the in- 
itiation of civilization into New England." 

Smith says, that the ship of Sir Francis Popham had been 
accustomed to trade at the port of New Harbor several years 
previously, that is to 1614. The definite lines of an old fort 
with foundation walls 51 x 52 feet square, and 5 feet thick, 
were to be seen till recently. This fort was located about 3 
rods south of the Tablet set up on land of C. B. Meserve to. 
commemorate the first deed published in America. The 



52 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

stone foundations were removed in 1913. Many cellars can 
still be traced about New Harbor. Choice relics have been 
found in that vicinity; the fragments of ancient mill-stones, 
unglazed earthen pottery, remains of kettles, large spoons, 
lead, bullets in large quantities, a leaden relic of trade, such 
as was used by the English people in olden times to tag cloth 
with, with the date of 1610 upon it. 

In 1622 there were thirty ships trading and fishing about 
Pemaquid; that no doubt included Boothbay Harbor, Damaris- 
cove, Monhegan, New Harbor and Pemaquid as known to-day. 
One gentleman has suggested that Pemaquid was not entitled 
to the credit of this number of ships, and suggested that they 
must have belonged to Damariscove, but he could not have 
been familiar with that place, for as one fisherman aptly re- 
marked: there is not room to moor thirty dories in that 
harbor, let alone thirty ships," all of which must have been 
large enough to cross the ocean. The harbor of Monhegan is 
not more suitable for that number of ships, neither is New 
Harbor. I find a statement sworn to by Abraham Shurte, 
stating that ' Damariscove with all the islands adjacent be- 
longed to Pemaquid;" twenty or more. Another reason why 
this which is known as Pemaquid Beach must have been the 
principal resort for fishing and trading is on account of its 
excellent harbors, and being by far the best locality for the 
fishermen to obtain bait which they found in great abundance 
at the Falls of the Pemaquid River which have ever since 
supplied bait for the fishermen and excellent food for the 
people of this locality, known as smoked alewives." These 
fish come here from the southern waters every spring like the 
migratory birds. To this day many of the large fishermen 
which sail from Boston, Gloucester and Portland, visit this 
place to obtain fresh bait; the alewives of the Pemaquid River 
are especially sought for during their season, being considered 
the best bait that can be obtained to catch halibut. 

From the following copied account and other writings of 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 53 

early times, some have been led to think that Damariscove 
and Monhegan were superior to Pemaquid, but the testimony 
of Shurte teaches us differently. It was natural that the early 
mariners should write of these islands as they did, they being 
the most conspicuous to them when they approached or passed 
this locality in their ships. No one familiar with this whole 
region can for a moment doubt that this was the metropolis of 
this locality, as stated in history. Even to-day, after centuries 
have elapsed, during which man and nature have combined to 
lay waste and obliterate the remains of its former civilization, 
there is more left beneath the waters of its harbors, along the 
banks of its noted river, its waterfalls and its tributary lakes 
for twenty miles back into the country, and in much of the 
territory then known as the ' kingdom of Pemaquid;" more 
relics of early civilization yet remain here than can be found 
at Plymouth and Jamestown, Virginia, combined. The Pema- 
quid River was once noted for its wild game; its waters were 
the highways of the natives leading back to the territory 
where they trapped and shot wild game and procured the fine 
furs which foreign ships came here to purchase. 

Among the scattered specks of struggling civilization, 
dotting the skirts of the green primeval forests," said Adams, 
the little colony of Plymouth was not the least." This 
little colony had been established only about eighteen months. 
It had struggled through its second winter, and now, sadly re- 
duced in number, with supplies wholly exhausted, the Pil- 
grims were sorely distressed. They were entirely destitute of 
bread. There was an emergency of starvation at Plymouth. 
The whole settlement was alive with excitement, when sud- 
denly a boat was seen to cross the mouth of Plymouth Bay 
and disappeared behind the next headland. A shot was fired 
as a signal, in answer to which the boat changed course and 
headed for the harbor. It proved to be the shallop of the 
Sparrow, Weston's ship, from the Pemaquid dependency of 
Damariscove, with seven men and a letter from Capt. Hudson, 



54 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

which informed the Pilgrims of the Eastern port, a place of 
bread and resources of trade. The Waif had sailed forty 
leagues from places in the eastern parts, known as Monhegan 
and " Damerill's Isles " (Damariscove) where were many 
ships. The little boat landed under a salute of three volleys 
of musketry from the Pilgrims on learning the good news from 
these "Eastern parts," and its neighborhood. 

With the return of the Sparrow's boat, Gov. Bradford sent 
Winslow, (The author of this book has recently ascertained 
that he is a descendant of Kanelm Winslow. My great grand- 
mother being named Phebe Winslow, a descendant of those 
who settled at Plymouth,) with the Pilgrims" shallop and 
means to purchase food supplies, and piloted back the Pilgrims 
who first learned the way and the resources of Maine by this 
waif of her seacoast, where fleets from Bristol and London now 
crowded the fishing and fur stations of Pemaquid. Thus in- 
formed, the hungry Pilgrims eagerly sought for supplies there 
to be had, and from the ships a " good quantity of provisions 
were obtained without money and without price, ample to 
give each Pilgrim a quarter of a pound of bread day by day, 
till next harvest." " On returning and reporting, the Pil- 
grims at once prepared to share the profits of the business 
enterprises at and about Pemaquid, and a fishing vessel was 
procured, fitted out at Plymouth, and sent into the fisheries 
there." She reached Boothbay Harbor and sought the anchor- 
age, where ships from England used to ride. In 1624, many 
English ships were there. A terrible storm came on which 
drove the Plymouth ship ashore, a wreck, when she sunk, the 
captain and one man being lost. By help there obtained, the 
wrecked vessel was raised and floated by casks attached to the 
keel at low water, taken ashore and repaired, refitted and put 
again into Pilgrim service. 

I have found that some people who have visited this place, 
though apparently well posted in history, are not willing to 
admit the former importance of old Pemaquid. That may be 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 55 

excusable from visitors from Massachusetts who have forgotten, 
or never knew that during much of the period of its most 
striking events, this place was as much in Massachusetts as 
ancient Plymouth. But the apathy of some of the people of 
our state is surprising, and I sometimes think that a majority 
of our best informed citizens have emigrated to other states. 

I blame no one for lauding Plymouth and its noble Pilgrim 
settlers. None too many monuments have been erected, none 
too many relics preserved, none too much history recorded, all 
are good and excellent educators, and it is right that our 
citizens should know as much at least about our own country, 
as of Africa or Australia. It is plainly shown by the above 
records that the early settlers of these two colonies must have 
become mutual friends; like two people from the same town, 
meeting in foreign ports or cities, they at once became in- 
terested in each other's welfare. 

Now, what I have to complain of is, that we have but one 
monument here, and that many of our relics and much of our 
history have been scattered far and wide, to our disgrace. It 
has been said, not a monument or tablet has been erected to 
teach our children, our citizens or our visitors the place where 
" Civilization began in New England." Where the Pilgrims 
were presented with the staff of life " that saved them to 
our country, where lived and died the noble Indian Samoset 
who first welcomed them to these New England shores and 
who saved them ' from destruction both by their enemies and 
from starvation," as they themselves record. 

Instead of building up monumental records for education, 
we have allowed the destruction of many of the choicest ones 
we had by vandalism and neglect, as the beautiful and elegant 
mansion, the home of Gen. Henry Knox, once Gen. Washing- 
ton's trusted friend, Fort Frederick, Fort Farley and many 
other noted landmarks of the past. Only one of the many 
forts once scattered along our coast, is left, Fort Edgecomb, a 
blockhouse near Wiscasset, and in respect to that, the timely 



56 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

interest of a local editor, Mr. Wood, set on foot repairs to 
which summer visitors contributed, by which it was saved from 
disgrace and destruction. 

Some have spoken with contempt of this place, judging from 
its present appearance that it could only have been a little 
fishing station " in the past. But its fish, even, are not to 
be sneered at, for they have ever been noted since Waymouth's 
voyage in 1605. For many generations in the State House at 
Boston, has hung an effigy of the sacred cod-fish, and when it 
was transferred from the Old Capital to its new quarters, a few 
years ago, that august body of legislators on Beacon Hill sus- 
pended all other business, while a party of their colleagues 
bore that sacred emblem of an occupation that helped to build 
up their city, in state upon a tablet draped with the stars and 
stripes, carried upon their shoulders and deposited, where it is 
still to remaia in sight of their lawmakers, a reminder of the 
foundation industries of their commonwealth. Fish and beans, 
the products of the sea and land, should never be sneered at 
by those who love the great Hub of the Universe." 

It is on record that from the Pemaquid locality came the 
food that kept alive that remnant of the Pilgrim band at 
Plymouth, when starvation stared them in the face that winter 
and spring of 1622, when their provisions were all gone and 
no harvest could be had for months. Bradford in his Journal 
mentions this deliverance. He does not mention Pemaquid 
specially, but others state that Hudson, the captain who sent 
the supplies, was at Pemaquid. Should not honorable mention 
be made of a place which saved to the world a colony which 
has exerted such untold power for good ? The intercourse thus 
established between this, the earliest surviving settlement and 
Plymouth, proved also very advantageous to the latter in open- 
ing the way for a profitable business for them in these locali- 
ties, an account of which is on record. 

These few bits of history are evidence of the gradual growth 
of Pemaquid, and the beginning of its recognition as the 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 57 

metropolis of these Eastern shores, a position it held for some 
years. 

Persevering when others grew weary and retired, Gorges 
had made a trading station at Pemaquid, the center of the 
wonderful spring and winter fishery, in that charmed quadrant 
included between Cape Newagen and Damarels Cove Islands 
on the west and Monhegan and St. Georges. Thither annually 
the Virginian and English fishermen came in armed vessels, 
with crews of forty men to a vessel, forming, as their vessels 
yearly increased in numbers, a barrier against the westward 
progress of French settlements. 

The stand taken from 1607 to 1620 and onward by these 
men of Gorges on the mainland and the fishermen on the 
adjacent islands, was the definite initial of the subsequent 
dominion of the English-speaking race in America. When 
they began there were no English settlers nearer than Vir- 
ginia, but under the lee of these brave fishermen holding the 
front with fifty or sixty armed ships, settlers did set down on 
the New England coast, and colonies grew up whose history 
we trace with filial pride." 



CHAPTER VIII. 



First Deed Ever Properly Executed In America. 

OVER a half-century before William Penn, the noted 
Friend or Quaker, made his memorable treaty with the 
Indians, and purchased of them honorably the state of Pennsyl- 
vania, John Brown of this place set the example by an honor- 
able purchase of a large tract of land of the original owners at 
Pemaquid. 

Representatives of those two noted names, Smith and 
Brown, did not fail to appear at Old Pemaquid and are to be 
found here yet. We have taken note of what Capt. John 
Smith has accomplished, now we will see what was done by 
John Brown. The purchase of land of the Pemaquid Indians 
constitutes another important epoch in our history. Prof. 
John Johnston's history of Bristol and Bremen states that 
Brown probably came here direct from Bristol, England, and 
he copies a document from the records of that place relating to 
him, dated Feb. 21, 1658, when Robert Allen testified that he 
had often told him that he was the son of Richard Brown of 
Barton Regis, in Gloucester, in England, and that he married 
Margaret, daughter of Francis Hayward of Bristol." 

FIRST DEED EVER PROPERLY EXECUTED IN AMERICA. 

In 1625 was given the first deed of land made and acknow- 
ledged in New England, perhaps in America, conveying a 
large tract to one John Brown of New Harbor, at Pemaquid. 
This deed was signed by Samoset (the same who welcomed the 
Pilgrims at Plymouth) and Unongoit, two Indian Sagamores. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 59 

The affidavit of these two Indians to their deed given for this 

land is interesting. It reads as follows: — 

To All People Whom it May Concern. Know ye, that I, 
Capt. John Samoset and Unongoit, Indian sagamores, they be- 
ing the proper heirs to all the lands on both sides of Muscongus 
river, have bargained and sold to John Brown of New Harbour 
this certain tract or parcell of land as followeth, that is to say, 
beginning at Pemaquid Falls and so running a direct course to 
the head of New Harbor, from thence to the south end of Mus- 
congus Island, taking in the island, and so running five and 
twenty miles into the country north and by east, and thence 
eight miles northwest and by west, and then turning and run- 
ning south and by west to Pemaquid, where first begun. To 
all which lands above bounded, the said Capt. John Samoset 
and Unongoit, Indian sagamores, have granted and made over 
to the above said John Brown, New Harbour, in and for con- 
sideration of fifty skins, to us in hand paid, to our full satis- 
faction, for the above mentioned lands, and we the above said 
sagamores do bind ourselves and our heirs forever to defend 
the above said John Brown and his heirs in the quiet and 
peaceable possession of the above said lands. In witness where- 
unto, the said Capt. John Samoset and Unongoit have set our 
hands and seal this fifteenth day of July, in the year of our 
Lord God one thousand six hundred and twenty-five. 

Capt. John Samoset, (seal) 
Unongoit (seal) 

Signed and sealed in presence of us, Matthew Newman. 

Wm. Cox. 

" July 24, 1626. Capt. John Samoset and Unongoit, Indian 
Sagamores, personally appeared and acknowledged this instru- 
ment to be their act and deed, at Pemaquid, before me, 

Abbaham Shubte. ' ' 

And the record of its registry is as follows: 
" Charlestown, Dec. 26, 1720. Read, and at the request of 
James Stilson, and his sister, Margaret Hilton, formally Stil- 
son, they being claimers and heirs of said lands, accordingly 
entered. Per Samuel Phipps." 

One of the clerks of the Committee for Eastern Lands. 

I have procured a copy of the above deed with the affidavit 
concerning its record, which occured nearly one hundred years 



60 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

after the deed was executed, which we have framed and hung 
up on exhibition in the Castle at Pemaquid. 

We know nothing now of Matthew Newman's history, one 
of the witnesses of this deed, but Johnson says Cox became a 
resident of this place and his posterity of the name are still 
here. The late Capt. Israel Cox of Bristol who was one of the 
selectmen of the town of Bristol, claimed that this William 
Cox was his great grandfather's father. An interesting cir- 
cumstance in connection with this deed is that the following 
list of names, written by the last signer of it, are on our 
Register, Aug. 28, 1896. 1. William Cox, witness of the first 
deed executed in America. 2. John of Pemaquid and Saga- 
dahoc. 3. John, Jr. of Sagadahoc and Dorchester. 4. Eben- 
ezer of Dorchester. 5. Benjiman of Hardunk. 6. Benjiman 
of Vermont. 7. Allen of Vermont. 8. Gardener Cox, M. D., 
Holyoke, Mass. 

The last signer of the above list came here to gather in- 
formation about his ancestors and to locate land once owned 
here by them. I think he has since published a history of 
the family. 

In 1897 Mr. Edward J. Cox of Newtonville, Mass., visited 
this place for the same purpose as the doctor above mentioned 
and recorded his ancestors' names in an unbroken line of de- 
scent to the signer of that deed, he being of the ninth genera- 
tion. 

The precision and conciseness of this deed of conveyance of 
American soil, written at Pemaquid, and the neat and com- 
pact formula of acknowledgment, drawn up by Abraham 
Shurte, and still adhered to in New England, word for word, 
are interesting to the jurist. There was no precedent for the 
acknowledgment, or the formula, and Mr. Shurte is well 
entitled to be remembered as the father of American convey- 
ancing. 

The following witty dedication of his book by the late 
N. I. Bowditch, Esq., of Boston, in his work on Suffolk Sur- 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 61 

names is interesting. To the memory of Abraham Shurte, 
the father of American Conveyancing, whose name is associat- 
ed alike with my daily toilet and my daily occupation. — 
N. I. Bowditch." The first legislation of Massachusetts 
providing for this mode of authenticating deeds, did not 
occur until 1640, when commissioners were especially ap- 
pointed for the purpose, and Plymouth colony did not adopt 
this security against fraudulent conveyances until six years 
later, in 1646. 

This deed was not recorded for nearly a hundred years, and 
was then entered on the records at Charlestown, Mass. 

I have also a copy of a deed showing that the Plymouth 
people purchased a large tract of land lying on the Kennebec 
River, which was deeded to them by our Nahanada and his 
brother and father. The land in this region being so fertile 
compared with that of Cape Cod, and the waters so abounding 
in superior food supplies, the colonists of Plymouth and vi- 
cinity come for a share of the bountiful products of Pemaquid. 

This citizen of Pemaquid, Abraham Shurte, (sometimes 
written Shurd, occasionally Short) deserves more than a pass- 
ing notice, for I wish to show that with the other important 
relations of Old Pemaquid we had as many good people, both 
Indians and whites, as any other settlements on the New 
England coast. Shurte became a resident of Pemaquid soon 
after his arrival in this country, and spent the rest of his life 
here. He was active in business and extended his trade 
along the shore west to Boston and east to Nova Scotia. In 
one of his excursions when on his way to Boston with Capt. 
Wright, he came near losing his life by the recklessness of a 
seaman who, in attempting to light his pipe near a keg of 
gunpowder, exploded it and blew the vessel and himself to 
atoms. Shurte and the others escaped. He is always spoken 
of as a magistrate of influence in the colony. The Indians he 
always treated kindly and justly, and thus retained their 
friendship even when they were enraged at others. 



62 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

In the summer of 1631 near a hundred of the Eastern 
Indians with thirty canoes, went to Agawam, (now Ipswich, 
Mass.) killed and captured Indians residing there, among 
them the wife of one of their Sagamores. Through the in- 
fluence of Shurte she was restored to the Chief. This probably 
laid the foundation of the friendship ever afterwards shown 
him. We have never found the name since in history, and 
have no reliable record of his death, but learn that in 1662 he 
was eighty years of age. 

Another citizen of Pemaquid is worthy of note, John Earthy, 
and also Richard Oliver of Monhegan, who deserve praise for 
their efforts to pacify the Indians, when they threatened 
danger to the white people. John Earthy was licensed to 
keep a house of " publicke entertaynmente " at Pemaquid by 
the Commissioners Court. After visiting Boston in winter 
time in the interests of this place he returned, and found a 
vessel lurking on this coast, waiting to capture Indians for 
slaves, as had been done occasionally for many years. Mr. 
Earthy hastened to visit the captain and argued with him 
against doing such injustice to a people with whom they were 
at peace. He also cautioned the Indians to be on their guard. 
So the slaver was unsuccessful here, but gained his object 
farther eastward. His name is mentioned as attending a 
conference at the Kennebec, to secure peace between the 
whites and Indians. At this conference were Assiminasqua; 
chief of the Penobscots, and Madockawando, his adopted son, 
Tarumkin, a chief of the Androscoggins, Hopegood and Mugg, 
and many others. Mugg belonged to the Penobscot tribe. 
The Indians, plainly showing that they had been ill-treated 
by the whites, seemed to have the best of the argument at 
this conference. Later we find his name with Oliver's and 
Isaac Addington's, a well known gentleman of Boston and 
member of the first church there in 1679, as witnesses to a 
treaty of peace with the Indians signed by Mugg in behalf of 
Madockawando and other chiefs at Boston, Nov. 13, 1676. 



CHAPTER IX. 



Noted Indians — Samosset, Unnongoit, Nahanada. 

HERE, at Old Pemaquid we find Indian names of individ- 
uals which stand higher on the pinnacle of fame than 
any others ever yet placed on record for their good and ex- 
cellent traits of character. The name of the tribe located in 
this place of whom Nahanada was the chief, was the Wa-wen- 
ock. We are again bothered by a lack of phonetic spelling 
which ought to have been adopted long ago. By following 
our previous rule of placing the accent on the second syllable; 
we have Sam-os-set, Un-on-go-it, etc. 

Unfortunately we have but little history of the early Basha- 
ba, Unnongoit, Madockawando and others; so of many of the 
early white settlers connected with this place our records so 
far are but meagre. This noted Indian sachem Samorset, has 
left behind him a name in every way interesting and honor- 
able. We first learn of him at Plymouth soon after the land- 
ing of the Pilgrims, when he was the first to welcome The 
Pilgrim Fathers " to the inhospitable shores of Cape Cod. 
The natives feared and avoided them and until this time held 
no intercourse. The Pilgrims first unwisely incurred the en- 
mity of the natives by their hostility in chasing them with fire 
arms upon their own shores, and threatening them with injury. 

The Pilgrims at this time were in great peril, after their 
ship the Mayflower had departed, fearing destruction from 
their savage foes. He very boldly came among them and 
saluted them in English, and bade them " Much Welcome 
Englishmen. " Their account relates: ' We questioned him 



64 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

of many things." His answer to them about the location of 
Pemaquid was significant, when he stated: " It lyeth hence a 
day's sail with a great wind, and five days by land," thus 
indicating there was an Indian trail leading along the New 
England shores as well as a waterway. 

We have further evidence here of communication and traffic 
between the different tribes of New England, by the fine 
jasper arrow heads and chips, which we find in the Indian 
shell heap upon the banks of the Pemaquid River. I have 
never been able to learn of any other locality in New England 
where these choice pieces of flint can be obtained, except just 
west of the city of Lynn, Mass., where a vein of it crops out 
on the bank of the Saugus River, near the station at Saugus 
Centre. 

Samorset was able to give them information by giving the 
names of the ships and their captains which had fished and 
traded at Pemaquid ports for many years. He could name the 
Chiefs of all the New England tribes and tell them the num- 
ber of their warriors. Their description of him in the follow- 
ing words is interesting: 

" The wind beginning to rise a little we cast a horseman's 
coat about him; for he was stark naked, only a leather about 
his waist, with a fringe about a span long or little more. He 
had a bow and two arrows, the one headed and the other un- 
headed. He was a tall, straight man; the hair of his head 
black, long behind, only short before; none on his face at all. 
He asked some beer, but we gave him strong water, and 
biscuit, and butter, and cheese, and pudding, and a piece of 
mallard; all of which he liked well, and had been acquainted 
with such amongst the English. All the afternoon 

we spent in conversation with him." 

Bradford says that he came boldly amongst them and 
spoke to them in broken English, which they could well 
understand." He became profitable to them in acquainting 
them with many things concerning the state of the country in 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 65 

the east parts where he lived, which was afterwards profitable 
unto them. 

Both of the writers just quoted proceed to show the various 
modes in which this interesting savage " made himself 

profitable " to them. He informed them of the hostility of 
the natives to the English, in consequence of Hunt's treachery 
some years before, and used his influence to produce a better 
state of feeling. He introduced to them his friend Squanto 
or Tisquantum, a native of the place who had been in Eng- 
land, and who afterwards became ' a spetiall instrument sent 
of God for their good beyond their expectation." 

Samorset continued in the vicinity some time, always seek- 
ing to promote good feeling between the English and the 
natives. This led to the formation of a treaty of peace be- 
tween the new colony of Plymouth and Massasoit, sagamore of 
the neighboring Wampanoag Indians, which remained in- 
violate more than fifty years, or until the time of King Philip's 
war in 1675. Samorset probably returned soon after this to 
his native place, as we hear nothing further of him at Ply- 
mouth. 

The next we hear of him he is at Capmanwagan (Capenew- 
agen) on the coast of Maine, at the time of Levett's visit 
there, in the winter of 1623-4. Levett introduced him to us 
as a sagamore that hath been found very faithful to the 
English, and hath saved the lives of many of our nation, some 
from starving, and others from killing." He received Levett 
with much cordiality, calling him cousin. He had become so 
much acquainted with the English as to be entirely free from 
the timidities usually shown by the natives at this early period, 
and proposed that perpetual friendship should be maintained 
between them, until Tanto carried them to his wigwam, 
that is, until they died." He had his wife and son with him 
there, and several noble attendants. The simple narrative of 
Levett presents them before us in a very interesting light. 
His wife in particular conducted herself in true royal style. 



66 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

When we came to York the masters of the ships came to bid 
me welcome, and asked what savages those were. I told them, 
and I thanked them; they used them kindly, gave them meat, 
drink and tobacco. The woman, or reported queen, asked me 
if those men were my friends. I told her they were; then she 
drank to them, and told them they were welcome to her coun- 
try, and so should all my friends be at any time. She drank 
also to her husband, and bid him welcome to her country too; 
for you must understand that her father was the Sagamore of 
this place, and left it to her at his death, having no more 
children." 

Samorset lived many years after this in quiet and peaceable 
intercourse with his new neighbors; certain it is history re- 
cords no quarrel between the parties! Samorset must at this 
time have been an old man, and probably soon passed away. 
Though an untutored savage," he has left behind him a 
character highly creditable to him, as a man of elevated rank 
among his countrymen. He appears not only to have been 
destitute of the jealousies and petty vices of his race; but, at 
the same time, to have manifested on all occasions a love of 
justice and truth, a generous confidence in others, and an 
elevation of soul far superior to very many of the Europeans 
with whom he was brought in contact. The fact that as late 
as 1673 his name was still remembered among the natives as 
that of a famous Sachem," shows that his manly character 
was not unappreciated by them. 

In 1615, fierce wars broke out among the Indians, during 
which the great Bashaba of the Penobscot was slain, and prob- 
ably his whole family was destroyed, for we hear no more of 
such a ruler in this region; then a dreadful pestilence broke 
out among the savages and continued for several years. At 
that time this great diminution of the native population 
favored the colonization of the country by Europeans. 



CHAPTER X. 



Pemaquid Patent. 

AN important document called The Patent," is deposit- 
ed in the library of the American Antiquarian Society 
at Worcester, Mass.; it will take up too much room to copy in 
this sketch, but I will give the dates and name the parties 
interested in this document, because of its connection with the 
early history of this place, for a period of nearly two hundred 
years. It had the peculiar date at the heading, which reads 
as follows: This Indenture made the Nine and twenteth 
day of February Anno D'm 1631, And in the Seaventh yeere 
of the Raigne of our Sovraigne Lord Charles by the grace of 
God King of England Scotland France and Ireland, Defender 
of the ffaith," etc. 

This patent or deed conveyed twelve thousand acres of land 
at Pemaquid to Robert Aldsworth and Gyles Elbridge, 
merchants of Bristol, England. Capt. Walter Neale acted as 
agent of the grantors, and Mr. Abraham Shurte of Pemaquid, 
as agent for the grantees. Shem Drowne who constructed the 
noted grasshopper vane on Faneuil Hall at Boston, long acted 
as agent for the heirs-at-law who claimed this territory under 
the patent above spoken of. 

Prof. Johnson, a native of Bristol and author of the history 
of Bristol and Bremen, says: The deed of White and 

Davidson who afterwards came into possession of this patent, 
by which they conveyed it to others, are decided curiosities. 
They go wonderfully into details conveying to the grantee 
everything above and below, around and beneath, real and 
imaginary, pertaining to the place. The deed to White is a 



68 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

full warrantry, as we should call it at the present time; and 
the grantor engages ' to save and keep harmless and indem- 
nifie, as well the said Paul White, his heirs, undertakes and 
assigns, and every of them, and all and singular the said 
premises, and from and concerning all other bargains, sales, 
joyntures, dowers, titles of dowers, arrearages of rents, and of 
the staple, executive] judgments extents, forfeitures, charges, 
titles, troubles, incumbrances, and demands whatsoever,' etc." 
Elbridge continued to reside at Pemaquid long after he had 
conveyed away all his right in the patent. In his convey- 
ances he styled himself " merchant of Pemaquid." He was a 
man of small stature and insignificant appearance, but ever 
exerted a mild and beneficial influence in the settlement. 
But he was not permitted to live without molestation, for in 
1659, he brought two actions against George Cleeve, one for 
defamation and the other for assault and battery, on the first 
of which he recovered fifty pounds damages. The result of the 
other action is not stated. He was still living in 1672, for we 
find his name as the signer of a petition from residents of the 
place, to be taken under the government and protection of 
Massachusetts. It is not known whether he had any family, 
nor has the time of his death been ascertained. Thomas El- 
bridge, who was a member of the first fire company formed in 
Boston, 1676, may have been the same man. 



CHAPTER XI. 



Wreck of Angel Gabriel at Pemaquid in 1635. 

THE great storm of August 15, 1635, was probably one 
of the most severe and destructive ever known on the 
coast of New England. It ravaged the whole coast from Nova 
Scotia to Manhattan (New York) and probably further south. 
It began early in the morning with the wind at the northeast, 
and continued with great fury five or six hours, the tide rising 
in some places more than twenty feet right up and down.' 
According to some of the old writers, the tide not only rose to 
a very unusual height, but was attended by other peculiar 
circumstances. High tide seems to have occured about the 
proper time, according to calculation, and was followed by a 
partial ebb, but then immediately succeeded another and un- 
accountable tidal wave, in which the water rose even higher 
than at first. The growing crops everywhere were greatly 
injured, and the largest trees of the forest, which then covered 
a large part of the surface, were blown down in immense 
numbers. 

This storm was very severe at Pemaquid, but we are in- 
debted chiefly to a disastrous shipwreck that occured here for 
what information we have of its ravages. June 22d, previous- 
ly, two ships, the Angel Gabriel of two hundred and forty 
tons, and carrying sixteen guns, and the James of two hun- 
dred and twenty tons, sailed together from Milford Haven for 
New England; both bringing passengers and supplies for the 
colonies. They kept together for nearly two weeks, but the 
James, being the best sailer, at length lost sight of the other, 
and proceeded on her voyage. During those two weeks the 



70 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

latter had not spread all their sails, so that they might not 
overgo her.' 

Among the passengers of the James was the Rev. Richard 
Mather and family, the ancestors of Drs. Increase and Cotton 
Mather, and most or all of the name in New England. Both 
of the ships, besides their passengers, brought also cattle and 
other domestic animals, with the necessary supplies for the 
voyage. Mr. Mather kept a diary during the voyage, which 
was published by Dr. Young in his Chronicles of Massa- 
chusetts in 1846, after having been kept in manuscript two 
hundred and eleven years. Afterwards it was republished by 
the Dorchester Antiquarian and Historical Society. 

But though the James thus early in the voyage was 
obliged to part with her consort, because of her own fast sail- 
ing, she did not arrive much in advance of her. The great 
storm of Aug. 15th, found her at anchor at Isle of Shoals; but 
having, in the first part of it, lost all her anchors, she was 
obliged to put to sea again, and after a very perilous contest 
with the storm, and having all her sails rent in sunder and 
split in pieces, as if they had been rotten ragges,' arrived in 
Boston harbor the next day. Mr. Mather was exercised ' as 
he expressed it, at least once every Sabbath, during the voyage, 
and sometimes at both ends of the day.' 

The night before the storm, while the James lay at the 
Isle of Shoals, the Angel Gabriel lay also at anchor at Pema- 
quid; but probably not in the inner harbor, for if she had been 
there, even if her anchors could not hold her, she could not 
have been dashed in pieces, as actually happened. One sea- 
man and three or four of the passengers were lost, and most of 
the animals and goods. Of the latter, a part was recovered in 
a damaged state. Among the passengers by the Angel Gab- 
riel was Mr. John Cogswell, a London merchant, who after- 
wards established himself in business at Ipswich. He was 
accompanied by three sons and several servants, and brought 
also many valuable household goods. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 71 

The following deposition is of interest, as connected with 
the shipwreck. It is contained in the Massachusetts Archives, 
Vol. XXX; p. 535. A quarrel had arisen among the sons, or 
other descendants of Cogswell, which found its way into the 
courts; and this deposition was taken in reference to the trial; 
and probably was actually used. Another deposition of Wm. 
Furber, also servant of Cogswell, was taken the same day, and 
is of the same character. Mass. Archives, Vol. XXXIX, p. 504. 

The Deposition of William Furber, Sen r ., aged 60 years 
or there abouts. 

This Deponent testifyeth and saith, that in the year of 
our Lord 1635 I the said Deponent did come over in the ship 
(called the Angell Gabriel) along with Mr. John Cogswell 
Sen r . from Old England, and we were cast ashore at Pemnay- 
quid; and I doe remember that there was saved several Casks 
both of Dry Goods and provisions which were marked with 
Mr. Cogswell Sen r . Marks and that there saved a tent of Mr. 
Cogswell Sen 1 , which he had set up at Pemnaquid, and Lived 
In it (with the goods that he saved in the wracke) and after- 
wards Mr. Cogswell Removed to Ipswich; And in november 
after that was cast away I the said Deponent Came to Ipswich 
and found Mr. Cogswell, Sen 1 ". Living there, and hired myself 
with him for one year; I the said Deponent doe well remem- 
ber that there were several feather beds and I together with 
Deacon Haines [ ancestor of our Governor of Maine in 1913- 
14 ] as servants lay upon one of them, and there were several 
dozen of pewter platters, and that there were several brass 
pans besides other pieces of pewter and other household goods 
as Iron Worke and others necessary as for house Repairing and 
have in the house then. I the said Deponent doe further 
testify that there were two maires and two Cows brought over 
in another ship which were landed safe ashoare and were kept 
at misticke till Mr. Cogswell had y m , 1 doe further testify that 
my maister, John Cogswell Sen r . had three sons which came 
over along with us in the ship (called the Angell Gabriel) the 



72 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

Eldest sonnes name were William, and he were about fourteen 
yeares of age, and the second sonne were called John and he 
was about twelve years of age then, and the third sonne name 
were Edward which was about six years of age at that time, 
and further saith not. William Furber Sen 1 , came and made 
oath to all the above written this first of Xber. (December) 
1676. Before me Richard Martyn, Comis 1 . 

A fellow passenger with Mather on the Angel Gabriel, 
was Bailey, who came over to this country with the view of 
settling here, but left his wife in the old country, until he 
could first make himself a little acquainted with the new coun- 
try, and provide a suitable place for his family. Though he 
escaped from the wreck unhurt, his mind was deeply affected 
by his narrow escape, and he wrote to his wife such a doleful 
account of the storm and shipwreck, that she never could be 
persuaded to undertake the voyage, even to join her husband. 
And he was too timid to risk himself again on the stormy 
Atlantic, they remained separate the rest of their lives." 

Another account which has been kindly furnished me by 
Mrs. Martha A. Baker, gives more details of the affairs on 
board the James, the companion ship of the Angel Gabriel. 
From that we learn that the Angel Gabriel was built for Sir 
Walter Raleigh, sailed from Bristol, England, on June the 
fourth with servants, passengers and five of the six daughters 
of John Cogswell, in addition to the three sons mentioned in 
the above account; she also brought farming implements and 
considerable money and that they were twelve weeks and two 
days on the voyage. 

We are interested in the Rev. Richard Mather, because he 
was a noted divine and his son Increase, once President of 
Harvard College, and to his grandson Cotton, we are indebted 
for a description of the first stone fort built at Pemaquid and 
for much of the early colonial history of New England. The 
Rev.- Dr. Increase Mather states that " The Angel Gabriel 
was the first vessel which miscarried with passengers from Old 




The Archangel, Capt. George Weymouth, the First 
Known Vessel Claiming Land at St. Georges Islands 
and Thomaston, by setting up English Crosses in 1605 



TO COMMEMORATE 
THE FIRST LANDING 
•JPLE AT. 

.;..AiJJG : . 8* 10,1607. 



Tablet from Pemaquid, placed in Cape Cod Monu- 
ment. This date is 13 Years Previous to Plymouth 




Odd-shaped Brick used in the Con- 
struction of the old "Cashe" 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUK 73 

England to New. sc signally did the Lord in his providence 
watch over the plantations of New England." That seems 
the more remarkable when we consider that there were no 
lighthouses, buoys or beacons to guide the mariner clear of the 
sunken - sks or through safe channels to the harbors, as we 
have to-day. It seems to indicate that they had good ships 
and knew well how to manage them. 



CHAPTER XII. 



Trouble for Pemaquid Settlers — Treaty of St. Germain. 

ur P\VO events occured in 1635 which caused uneasiness in 
A all the New England colonies: the surrender of the 
charter of the Plymouth (Eng.) Council (consisting of forty 
noblemen and gentlemen of England); and the continued en- 
croachments of the French from the eastward.'" 

This territory was not divided, as to-day, into states; coun- 
ties and towns. The rulers of England and France, when 
they gave their subjects titles to this territory, often over- 
lapped each other. When their subjects came here a dispute 
arose about the boundaries. The English had established 
trading posts as far east as Castine and Machias, but they 
were broken up by the French who became so bold as to claim 
all the territory along the coast to Cape Cod. They claimed 
all the territory of Pemaquid as a part of Acadia. They forti- 
fied Castine and held it against an armed ship. In this 
affair," says Prof. Johnson, * the Pemaquid settlers found 
themselves between two fires, for while the French on one 
hand, were threatening to displace them as intruders, on the 
other hand, Gov. Bradford of Plymouth complained that they 
filled ye Indians with guns and munishtion to the great dan- 
ger of ye English,' and kept both the French and Indians in- 
formed of what was passing among the colonists. Their posi- 
tion was exceedingly critical, but their affairs seem to have 
been managed with great skill and moderation; so that if they 
did not altogether please the three parties, viz., the English 
colonies west of them, the French at the east, or the native 
Indians, in their midst, they at least gave mortal offense to 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 75 

none. As a natural result, they for many years enjoyed a good 
degree of prosperity, and the population of the place rapidly 
increased. Gov. Winthrop, in a very incidental manner, af- 
fords us some evidence of the prosperity of the place, in the 
month of May, 1640. Joseph Grafton set sail from Salem, 
the second day in the morning, in a ketch of about forty tons, 
(three men and a boy in her) and arrived at Pemaquid (the 
wind easterly) upon the third day (Tuesday) in the morning, 
and then took in some twenty cows, oxen, etc., with hay and 
oats for them, and came to an anchor in the bay the 6th day 
about three afternoon.' 

This was making good despatch, but the voyage could 
very easily be accomplished in the time mentioned, if the 
vessel was only a moderately good sailer, and the wind favor- 
able both going and returning. 

In 1636, cows sold in Massachusetts as high as twenty-five 
and even thirty pounds a head, and oxen at forty pounds per 
pair, but after this the price was lower." 

Two vigorous but unprincipled Frenchmen, one named 
Charles Etienne La Tour, a professed Protestant, and M. 
D'Aulney de Charnisse a catholic, for twelve years caused 
trouble at Pemaquid. The former took Machias and the latter 
captured Castine by strategy. These two men had been grant- 
ed titles to much land at Acadia. On the death of Gen. 
Razilly, their superior commander, a rivalry sprung up be- 
tween them which soon became a bitter quarrel, that threat- 
ened all the English settlements on the coast. 

D'Aulney confided in the French government for assistance, 
and his rival in the Protestant colonies along the coast. The 
king of France, Louis XIV, authorized D'Aulney to arrest La 
Tour and send him back a prisoner to France. This order in- 
tensified the strife and they fought like two independent chief- 
tains. In 1641 La Tour by his agent applied to Massachusetts 
for aid against his rival, who carried a letter of introduction 
from Abraham Shurte of Pemaquid. He finally got permission 



76 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

to hire ships and enlist men at his own expense, and secured 
four ships and one hundred forty-two men as sailors and sol- 
diers, but the English colony being a government not wishing 
to incur the displeasure of D'Aulney, would not openly assist 
him though they sympathized with him. La Tour was estab- 
lished at St. John and D'Aulney at Castine, and kept up their 
struggle. 

In the spring of 1645 D'Aulney learned that La Tour was 
absent from his garrison; he proceeded then to attack it. On 
the way he met a New England vessel and made a prize of her 
in utter disregard of a treaty he had just made with the Eng- 
lish colonists, turned the crew ashore on a distant island with- 
out food or suitable clothing. On arriving at St. John he 
bombarded the fort, but Madam La Tour who had commanded 
during her husband's absence, made such spirited resistance 
that he was obliged to retire, his ship being badly damaged, 
with twenty of his men killed and thirteen wounded. On his 
return, a wiser, if not a better man, he took aboard the men 
he had put ashore on the island, who had remained there ten 
days in great suffering, and gave them an old shallop to return 
in, but without restoring any of their property. 

Finally this miserable quarrel was brought to a close. In 
April, 1647, D'Aulney again suddenly made his appearance at 
St. John and attacked the fort with so much energy that he 
soon gained possession of it, making Madame La Tour and the 
whole garrison prisoners, and appropriating to himself all of 
La Tour's effects of every kind, which was not less than ten 
thousand pounds. 

Madame La Tour, in the absence of her husband, had com- 
mand of the fort, and, as on a former, similar occasion, defend- 
ed it with great vigor, killing and wounding many of D'Aul- 
ney's men, but the latter, having gained some advantage, 
offered favorable terms. She was induced to capitulate, sur- 
rendering everything into the hands of her adversary. As 
soon as possession of the fort had been gained, D'Aulney, 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 77 

utterly disregarding the promises he had made, in accordance 
with his base nature, put the whole garrison to death, except 
one man, and compelled Madame La Tour herself, with a rope 
around her neck, to be present at the execution. This lady, 
exhausted by the heroic exertions she had made in defending 
the fort, and stung to madness by the wrongs and indignities 
she was made to suffer, died three weeks after the surrender of 
the fort. 

Her husband, now reduced to poverty, was left a wanderer 
and an exile. At this time La Tour owed considerable sums 
to individuals in Massachusetts, to whom much of his property 
in Nova Scotia was mortgaged, one man alone, by name of 
Gibbons, having a claim of more than £2,500. The prospects 
of ever collecting their dues were now small. La Tour in de- 
spair now made application for aid to his former friend, Sir 
David Kirk of Newfoundland, but without effect. He then 
turned again to Massachusetts, where he found some men of 
wealth who, still having confidence in his integrity, furnished 
him with a vessel and goods to the value of £400, for a trading 
excursion among the Indians at the east. 

Arriving at Cape Sable, he developed his true character as a 
low scoundrel and hypocrite, by entering into a conspiracy 
with a part of his crew, who were Frenchmen, to put ashore 
the others who were English, taking possession of the vessel 
and cargo as their own. The men, thus put ashore in the 
depth of winter, in a destitute condition, were, after much 
suffering, relieved by a party of Mickmack Indians, who kindly 
aided them in returning to their homes. La Tour and his 
confederates, now regular pirates, it is believed, sailed farther 
east to Hudson's Bay; but nothing is known of their doings. 
D'Aulney died in 1651, which opened a way for La Tour's re- 
turn to the scene of his former exploits. 

The ferocious contest between these two unscrupulous rivals, 
raged with more or less violence for twelve years, and produced 
effects not a little detrimental to the settlement at Pemaquid, 



78 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

and all others on the coast. Sometimes enormous wrongs were 
committed on innocent people, living in the neighborhood, by 
their exploits; angry menaces occasionally thrown out, could 
not but excite the apprehensions of the persons living so near 
as Pemaquid. 

But stranger things connected with this affair remain yet to 
be mentioned. La Tour, after his return, made love to the 
widow of his late hated rival, D'Aulney; and they were actual- 
ly married, and lived together many years, several children 
being born to them. All his former possessions in Nova Scotia 
were now resumed by him, and a singular prosperity marked 
the latter years of his life: but it is added, in the history of the 
time, that in all his prosperity he did not remember his friends 
in Massachusetts, who aided him in the days of his adversity 
and trial, so much as to pay them the money he owed them. 
So singular a termination to such a bitter and protracted con- 
test exceeds the limits of ordinary romance; and one scarcely 
knows whether it should be contemplated as belonging to 
the sublime or ridiculous, to the romantic or the disgusting." 



CHAPTER XIII. 



Pemaquid Under the Duke of York — The First Indian 
War at Pemaquid Called King Philip's War. 

1664- 1686. 

SEVERAL years ago, while hunting in an old bookstore at 
Boston, I fortunately secured a copy of a volume of rec- 
ords pertaining to Pemaquid, compiled by Franklin B. Hough. 
" In 1664, the Duke of York received from his brother, King 
Charles, a grant of the territory of New York, including 
Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket, and also the territory in 
Maine extending from the St. Croix on the East to the Kenne- 
bec on the West. The latter, which included Pemaquid, was 
named Cornwall. The governors appointed to rule over the 
territory being located at New York, seem not to have given 
much attention to this part of their possessions until after the 
terrible war of King Philip began in 1676. 

The first fierce Indian war which burst with fury upon 
Pemaquid and the neighboring settlements in 1676, was a part 
of the same great struggle which the year before raged in 
Massachusetts and is known in history as King Philip's war. 
A full half century had elapsed since the settlement at Pema- 
quid was begun. Then began that fearful struggle for the 
existence of each nation, the echoes of which have been hand- 
ed down to us to this day by tradition." 

When wild the war-whoop clave the quivering air, 
With crash of cannon and the trumpet's clang, 

When wails of woman and the voice of prayer 

With moans of death through fair Mavooshen rang. 



80 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

The frantic mother wept and prayed in vain, 

While savage hands the smiling infant slew, 
And burning ruin smoked along the plain, 

So wild, so sharp the fiendish warfare grew; 
And o'er the land pale Fear with Famine crept, 

Dark Desolation's slow and silent train. 
Then sad and lingering was the sure decay, 

That dragged the dying city to its doom, 
Till this fair valley where we walk to-day, 

From hill to river, blossoms o'er a tomb; 
The happy homes so bright, so full of song, 

Lie mouldering here beneath the crumbling clay; 
The happy hearts, with faith and courage strong, 

Sleep on beside them, cold and still as they. 

M. W. Hackelton. 

They first begun here by gratifying their revenge, but 
ended in an indiscriminate slaughter of friends as well as foes. 
The Indian depredation began September 20, 1675, against 
the settlers for undertaking to deprive them of their guns and 
ammunition to prevent them from using them against the 
whites; they resented this because they had become so accus- 
tomed to the use of the musket as to be largely dependent 
upon it for obtaining their daily food. 

Some have doubted whether the outbreak of the eastern 
Indians had any connection with King Philip's war but the 
connection of the two is too plain to need argument. In the 
course of the war, several Narragansett Indians were actually 
captured in arms with their brethren at the east." 

On June 13, 1677, Gov. Andros of N. York, sent four 
good sloops here loaded with lumber and other material for a 
strong Redoubt. Lieu. Anthony Brockholls, Ensign Cesar 
Knapton, and Mr. M. Nickolls had command of the expedi- 
tion. On their arival they prosceeded to erect the fortification 
and named it Fort Charles." 

The fortifications erected at this time consisted of a wood- 
en' Redout w th two guns aloft and an outworke with two Bas- 
ions in each of w cb two greatt guns, and one att y e Gate; fifty 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 81 

souldiers w th sufficient ammunicon, stores of warre, and spare 
arms, victualled for about eight months, and his Roy High- 
ness sloope w th four gunns to attend y e Coast and fishery." 

This wooden fort or redoubt occupied very nearly the same 
site as those erected subsequently, but was situated a little 
east of the rock, as will hereafter appear. Capt. Anthony 
Brockholls and Ensign Caesar Knapton were put in command 
of the fort and settlements, with a company of fifty soldiers. 
They called the place Jamestown in honor of the King, James 
II. As soon as the duke's government was established, orders 
were at once given for the regulation of trade and nearly all of 
the other affairs of the settlement. All questions of disagree- 
ment between the inhabitants and fishermen to be referred to 
a justice of the peace, an appeal being allowed in important 
cases to the governor at New York. 

At a Councell Sept. 27, 1677, Held at New York, The Orders and 
Directions were made for the Commander of Pemaquid as follows: 

The trading place to be at Pemaquid and no where else. 

All entryes to bee made at New Yorke and no Coasters or Interlopers 
allowed, but if any found to be made prise. 

Liberty of stages (places for drying and taking care of fish) upon the 
Islands but not upon the Maine, except at Pemaquid near the fort. 

The Indyans not to goe to ye fishing Islands. 

No rum to bee dranke on that side the ffort stands. 

No man to trust any Indyans. 

Traders from New York were allowed to establish houses in 
the place, but only near the fort and on a street of good 
breadth leading directly from the Fort to the narrowest part 
of the neck or point of land the Fort stands upon, going to the 
great neck towards New Harbor. 

All trade to be in the said Street, in or afore the houses, between sun 
and sun, for which the drum to beate, or bell ring every morning and 
evening, and neither Indyan nor Christian suffered to drink any strong 
drinks nor lye ashore in the night, &c. 



82 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUIB 

No Indyans nor Christians to be Admitted att any time within the 
Fort except some few upon occasion of businesse below, but none to 
goe up into the Redout, &c. 

Fishermen giving notice to the Fort to have all Liberty of taking 
their fish on the fishing Islands, or neare and under protection of the 
Fort. 

If Occasion one or more Constables to be appointed for the fishing 
Islands, and Indyans to have equal Justice and Dispatch. 

Fishermen to come to Pemaquid yearly to renew their Engagen and 
not to splitt or fling out their Gurry on the fishing grounds, or to trade 
with the Indyans to the prejudice of the fishery and hazard of these 
part. 

Any Trader or other trusting an Indyan or Indyans except for dry 
provissings, or adulterating Rumme or strong drinke by mixing water 
or otherwise, to forfet the same to the party trusted or buying, and be 
lyable to further censure as the Case may require and the forfeiture of 
the remaining part of such strong Liquor to be to Commander, satisfy- 
ing or paying the informer. 

Land to bee given out indifferently to those that shall come and 
settle, but no trade to bee at any place than Pemaquid, and none at all 
with the Indyans as formerly ordered. 

It shall not be Lawful for any Vessels crew that belongeth not to the 
Government to make a voyage in the Government, except he hath an 
house or stage within the Government on penalty of forfeiture of pay- 
ing for making his voyage. 

It shall not be lawful for fishermen to keep any more dogges than one 
to a family on such penalty and forfeiture as shall be thought fitt by 
you ICapt. of the Fort.] 

No coasting vessels shall trade on the Cost as Bum boats tradeing 
from Harbor to Harbor, but as shall supply the Generall account for 
one boat or more, neither shall it be lawful for him to trade in any 
other Harbor, but where the boat or boats are, neither shall it be law- 
ful for him to trade with any other crew for liquors or wine, Rumm, 
Beer, Sider, &c, on such penalty as you [Capt. of Fort] think fitting. 

All vessels out of any Government if they come to trade or fish shall 
first enter at Pemaquid, or the places appointed, and they shall not go 
in any other Harbor, except by stress of weather. No stragling 
farmes shall be erected, nor no houses built any where under the num- 
ber of twenty. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 83 

[a reduced facsimile of a proclamation issued by andros while in 

MAINE IN 1688.] 

BY HIS EXCELLENCY 

PROCLAMATION. 

WHEREAS His MAJESTY hath been graciously pleased, by His 
Royal Letter, bearing Date the sixteenth day of October last 
past, to signifie That He hath received undoubted Advice 
that a great and sudden Invasion from Holland, with an 
armed Force of Forreigners and Strangers, will speedily be made in an 
hostile manner upon His Majesty's Kingdom of ENGLAND; and that 
altho' some false pretences relating to Liberty, Property, and Religion, 
(contrived or worded with Art and Subtilty) may be given out, (as 
shall be thought useful upon such an Attempt;) It is manifest however, 
(considering the great preparations that are making) That no less 
matter by this Invasion is proposed and purposed, than an absolute 
Conquest of His Majesty's Kingdoms, and the utter Subduing and Sub- 
jecting His Majesty and all His People to a Forreign Power, which is 
promoted ( (as His Majesty understands) altho' it may seem almost in- 
credible) by some of His Majesty's Subjects, being persons of wicked 
and restless Spirits, implacable Malice, and desperate Designs, who 
having no sencc of former intestine Distractions, (the Memory and Mis- 
ery whereof should endear and put a Value upon that Peace and Happi- 
ness which hath long been enjoyed) nor being moved by his Majesty's 
reiterated Acts of Grace and Mercy, (wherein His Majesty hath studied 
and delighted to abound towards all His Subjects, and even towards 
those who were once His Majesty's avowed and open Enemies) do again 
endeavour to embroil His Majesty's Kingdom in Blood and Ruin, to 
gratifie their own Ambition and Malice, proposing to themselves a Prey 
and Booty in such a publick Confusion: 

And that although His Majesty had notice that a forreign Force was 
preparing against Him, yet his Majesty hath alwaies declined any for- 
reign Succour, but rather hath chosen (next under GOD) to rely upon 
the true and ancient Courage, Faith and Allegiance of His own People, 
with whom His Majesty hath often ventured His Life for the Honour 
of His Nation, and in whose Defence against all Enemies His Majesty 
is firmly resolved to live and dye; and therefore does solemnly Conjure 
His Subjects to lay aside all manner of Animosities, Jealousies, & Pre- 



84 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

judices, and heartily & chearfully to Unite together in the Defence of 
His MAJESTY and their native Countrey, which thing alone, will 
(under GOD) defeat and frustrate the principal Hope and Design of 
His Majesty's Enemies, who expect to find His People divided; and by 
publishing (perhaps) some plausible Reasons of their Coming, as the 
specious (tho' false) Pretences of Maintaining the Protestant Religion, 
or Asserting the Liberties and Properties of His Majesty's People, do 
hope thereby to conquer that great and renowned Kingdom. 

That albeit the Design hath been carried on with all imaginable 
Secresie & Endeavours to surprise and deceive His MAJESTY, He 
hath not been wanting on His part to make such provision as did be- 
come Him, and, by GOD's great Blessing, His Majesty makes no 
doubt of being found in so good a Posture that His Enemies may have 
cause to repent such their rash and unjust Attempt. ALL WHICH, it 
is His Majesty's pleasure, should be made known in the most publick 
manner to His loving Subjects within this His Territory and Dominion 
of NEW-ENGLAND, that they may be the better prepared to resist 
any attempts that may be made by His Majesties Enemies in these 
parts, and secured in their trade and Commerce with His Majesty's 
Kingdom of England. 

I Do therefore, in pursuance of His MAJESTY'S Commands, by 
these Presents make known and Publish the same accordingly; And 
hereby Charge and Command all Officers Civil & Military, and all 
other His Majesty's loving Subjects within this His Territory and Do- 
minion aforesaid, to be Vigilant and Careful in their respective places 
and stations, and that, upon the Approach of any Fleet or Foreign 
Force, they be in Readiness, and use their utmost Endeavour to hinder 
any Landing or Invasion that may be intended to be made within the 
same. 

Given at Fort-Charles at Pemaquid, the Tenth Day of Jan- 
uary, in the Fourth year of the Reign of our Sovereign 
Lord James the Second, of England, Scotland, France 
and Ireland KING, Defender of the Faith &c. Annoq; 
DOMINI 1688. 
By His EXCELLENCY'S Command. 

JOHN WEST. &. Seer'. E ANDROS 

GOD SAVE THE KING. 
Printed at Boston in New-England by R. P. 

The above extracts from orders issued at different times 
show the general character of many more sent here for the 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 85 

military government of this place. The ruler of England, 
James II., and the Duke of York, were working through their 
agent, Sir Edmond Andros, to bring the colonists more fully 
under their control and make them pay more tribute to the 
crown. They also meant to punish the other New England 
colonies, by excluding them from trade with the Indians, or 
taking fish on the coast except by payment of tribute at the 
Pemaquid custom house. 

In December, 1680, Thomas Sharpe was appointed Captain 
of the Fort, and Francis Skinner August 30, 1681. Other 
officers, civil and military, were appointed from time to time 
by the governor. Among the names we find Henry Jocelyn, 
was chosen to bee Justice of the Peace in Corum ,? [Quorum]. 
Other justices in Cornwall were John Dollin, Lawrenc Den- 
nis, John Jourdain, Richard Redding, John Allen, Thomas 
Giles or [Gyles], Alexander Waldorp, Thomas Sharp, Richard 
Pattishall, Nicholas Manning, Giles Goddard, Ceasor Knapton, 
John West and Elihu Gunnison. Sheriffs, constables, and 
other officers were appointed but their names are not preserved 
with those above. 

Many letters and documents, contained in that volume of 
ancient records are interesting. One letter to the commander 
of the fort speaks of sending thirty pounds to buy a sailing 
shallop, and cautions him to Take care to keepe the plat- 
forme in the fort in good repaire w I judge you doe by 
wattering or throwing stuffe or earth thereupon." The details 
for care of guns, store, traffic with the natives, etc., are 
wonderful accounts of what was to be forwarded by Gov. An- 
dros. One letter from Capt. Brockholls dated New York, 
May 10th, 1683, to Mr. Francis Skinner reads: 

" I am sorry the loossness and carelessness of your command gives 
oppertunity for strangers to take notice of your extraviganyes and De- 
baucheryes and that complaints must come to me thereoff being what 
your Office and Place ought to prevent and punish. Expect a better 
observance and comporte for the future and that Swearing, Drinking 



86 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

and profaneness to much practiced and Suffered with you will be wholly 
Suppressed and that you have Regard to all former Orders and Regula- 
tions." Your Affectionate friend, 

A. B. 

Col. Thomas Dongan was appointed to succeed Andros in 
1682, and arrived in this country in August, 1683. A long 
petition was soon sent to him by the inhabitants of a part of 
Cornwall containing eight articles and reciting their griev- 
ances under Andros and praying for relief. It was signed by 
eighteen persons. 

Also a petition directly relating to this locality was sent in 
this form: — 

" To the Right honerable Governor and Council of Assembly of New 
Yorke. The humble Petition of New Harbor humbly sheweth: That, 
whereas yor petitioners have been at great charge in building their 
habitations, and as yet have noe assurance of either house lots or the 
bounds of our place, which is a hindrance to our conveniencyes of 
planting or making an improvement, etc. We humbly [pray] that 
there may be surveyors appointed for that purpose to lay out lands; 
likewise the * * * of these customs may be taken off, because it 
never used to be paid by any ffisherraan in this world as we know of. 
and it hinders the coasters comming to us to bring our supplies, and 
when they do come, the very name of these customs makes them sell 
their goods almost as dear again as formerly they used, so that we finde 
it to be to all the countrye a grevious burden and to all the people 
called fishermen an utter ruin. 

And that Pemaquid may still remain the metropolitan of these 
parts, because it ever have been so before boston was settled. 
Wherfore your honers poor petitioners humbly desire that the honorable 
Governor and Councell would please to take the premises into your 
pious consideration, to order and confirm the lots, bounds, limits of this 
place to be laid out, and that we may enjoy the labors of our hands and 
have it for our children after us, and also that the customs may be 
taken of, and raised some other way, and that Pemaquid may be the 
metropolitan (metropolis) place, and your honers petitioners as in duty 
bound shall ever pray. 

Per order of the inhabitants, 

Wm. Stuart, Town Clerk at Pemaquid. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 87 

By the following orders sent here by Governor Dongan to 
Capt. Nicholas Manning, the ' Sub-Collector, Surveyor, &c, 
for these parts," the earliest stringent liquor laws of Maine 
must have been enforced at Old Pemaquid. Among fourteen 
articles for the government of the fisheries collections of quit 
rents," customs, etc.; the seventh and eighth articles read as 
follows: 

Tthly. You are to goe into y e house & Cellar of any p r son 
or p r sons whatsoever where y e suspect there is any wine or 
other liquors & Syder that shall be by them sold & retailed. 
You are alsoe to goe into their Cellars & houses as afores as 
yo u shall see Cause to p T vent all fraud & Imbezellment of his 
Ma ties Revenue. 

8thly. You are not to suffer any Yessell whatsoever to goe 
into or up Kenebeque River or any parte thereof until they 
have first made their entry with yo u at Jamestown & payed his 
Ma tIe! Dews & if any shall presume to doe y e Contrary y° are to 
Cause both vessell & Goods to be Seized & proceeded ags 1 by 
Law as directed for defrauding his Ma e of his Customes. And 
that all Yessells tradeing into any porte River or place doe 
Enter & Cleere with yo u before there departure und r the like 
pains & forfeitures. 

lOthly. You are not to suffer any p r son or p r sons to sell 
any sort of Liquors by retaile in any part or place within 
y e s d County but such as shall obtaine Lycence from yo r selfe & 
shall pay such sume of mony for ye Same as yo u shall think fitt 
to agree for & not lesse than 1 2 s for Each Lycence g r ted and of 
y e monys on that behalfe received yo u are to Render a pficular 
ac l to y e Gov r as opportunity p T sents." 

When at the death of King Charles II. the Duke of York 
became King James II., changes of government occurred by 
which was established ' the territory and dominion of New 
England." Then for convenience Pemaquid was detached 
from New York and annexed to Massachusetts. 



88 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

The following ' Royal Order" directs this transfer of juris- 
diction. 
James R. 

Trusty & well beloved wee Greet you well. Whereas wee 
have thought titt to direct that our ffort & Country of Pemaquid in re- 
gard of its distance from New York bee for the future annexed to & 
Continued under the Governmt of our territory & dominion of New 
England our will & pleasure is that you forthwith Deliver or cause to be 
delivered our said ffort & Country of Pemaquid with the Greate Gunns, 
ammunicon & stores of warr together with all other utensils & appur- 
tennces belonging to the said ffort into the hands of our trusty and wel- 
beloved Sir Edmund Andross Knight our Captaine Generall & Govern- 
our in chief of our territory & dominion of New England or to the 
Governor or Commander in Chiefe there for the time being or to such 
person or persons as they shall Impower to receive the same and for soe 
doing this shall be your warrant. 

Given at our Court at Windsor this 19th day of Sept., 1686 & in the 
second yeare of our Reigne. 

By his Ma tieB Command, 

Sunderland, Ci.. [Clerk] 

The following note was printed below this order : 

The Great Guns from the fort at Pemaquid, after being carried to 

Boston, were by order of the King in the spring of 1691, transferred to 

New York. (N. Y. Coll. MSS. xxxvii.) 

[Under the heading of " Passes " we find the following list 
of vessels that were granted dispatch to sail for Pemaquid.] 
[Pass Book IV.] 

Dispatch granted to the Barke Elizabeth Alizander Woodrop Master 
bound for Pemaquid November ye 29th 83. 

Dispatch granted to the sloope Happy Returne, James Barry Com- 
mander for Pemaquid & New found Land Aprill 26th 1684. 

Despatch granted to the Sloope Blossom Stephen Heacock Comander 
for Pemaquid May the 22d 1685. 

Despatch granted to the Sloope Prinrose John Eurest Master for 
Stratford and off Pemaquid New York July the 4th 1685. 

Despatch granted to the sloope Lewis Frances Bassett Comander for 
Pemaquid & New found Land [Sept. 4 (?) 1685.] 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 89 

Despatch gTanted to the Sloope Adventurer Thomas Brookes Com- 
mander for Boston & Pemaquid, June 19th 1686. 

Lucas Andries Masr of the sloop Elias enters the sd sloop for Pema- 
quid with Contents of Loading. [June 20, 1681.] 

Lawrence Sluce Enters the sloop Hopewell himself Master ffor Pema- 
quid with Contents of Loading. [Sept. 10, 1681.] 

Stephen Hiskott mar of the Sloop Blossome Enters the sd Sloope for 
Pemaquid with Contents of Loading. [Oct. 81, 1681.] 



CHAPTER XIV. 



Relics of Pemaquid. 

SOME years ago I published a small circular containing a 
list of the most important places and objects of interest 
which I had been able to trace out and obtain information 
about, over the ruins of this little historic peninsula. Having 
had further time to gather information from outside sources 
and personal examination here, I will try to give the reader 
the benefit of my researches. 

I hope that no one who reads this account or comes here for 
investigation will be impressed with the idea that here are to 
be found grand old ruins of some great city like those of east- 
ern lands where nations have risen, flourished and decayed; 
leaving behind them, 

Storied columns in massive grandeur piled, 
Above and underneath the soil, in ruin wild. 

Here we have only the footprints of a nation's beginning. 
All along our seacoast those footprints can be found from this 
place to Jamestown, Virginia, spots where colonists found a 
stepping stone to rest upon after crossing the western ocean, 
and from which they have taken long and rapid strides until 
they have reached the broad Pacific Ocean. 

Not all historic events of great importance have any relics 
left to mark where they occured. Just where Columbus land- 
ed is not known to-day, yet a World's Fair held at Chicago 
in 1892, celebrated the event. 

Massachusetts, after nobly marking all her well known 
places of historic interest, starts out to mark with cairns his- 
toric spots where once stood some of her noted citizens to 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 91 

watch an important event. No wonder her children know the 
history of their State, and it must be admitted that ours of 
old Maine learn more of theirs than of their own from history. 

What have we of old Maine done to preserve our ancient 
history, and mark our spots of historic interest ? Why, Col. 
Dickey once at the State House at Augusta, when I inquired 
if he knew of any one there interested in ancient history, 
answered, No ! I never saw any one here that was interested 
in anything ancient ;" said he, I had hard work to get an 
appropriation to save our old block house at Fort Kent." He 
was a member of the legislature. 

When I first came here to reside at the Jamestown Hotel I 
met Capt. George Johnson, who then boarded there with his 
daughter, Mrs. Addie Partridge, wife of the proprietor. Capt. 
Johnson for many years followed the sea, and during the latter 
part of his life took much interest in all the schools of our 
town and in all good work of Christianity and education. He 
loaned me two excellent books containing much information 
about this locality : the History of Bristol and Bremen " and 
a poem by Mrs. Maria W. Hackelton, entitled ' Jamestown 
of Pemaquid.'" Those two books gave me an inspiration to 
investigate the hidden mysteries of Old Pemaquid, which has 
never died out and I trust never will until with the kind assist- 
ance of others, we shall be able to show to our own citizens 
and to the world that Old Pemaquid was once of some account. 
I once heard a visitor say that Pemaquid was of no account 
because it was not a. permanent settlement." I trust that I may 
be able to prove that his remark was not correct. 



CHAPTER XV. 



Old Fort Rock, Castle and House. 

NO better opportunity than that presented from the top of 
this Castle to view the middle point of land which 
comprises one of the three which form the southern part of the 
town of Bristol, and is bounded on the west by the John's 
river, and on the east by the celebrated winding river of 
Pemaquid. About one mile distant, on the opposite high 
bank, where the river makes a turn at right angles towards 
the west, an artificial mound is to be seen, at the top of the 
high hill, quite plainly from here. Although the relics hunt- 
ers and different owners of the land have for many years been 
attempting to solve the mystery surrounding this locality, they 
have only made it more obscure by their promiscuous efforts. 
By communication with many people now passed away, by and 
examination of many relics seen and obtained, I am well con- 
vinced that once a small colony of intelligent white people 
occupied this spot of earth for a considerable time. Who they 
were, where they came from, how they disappeared, or when, 
can only be conjectured today by what they have left upon 
the shore. There is yet to be seen the remains of a small 
fortification formed by enclosing space with a stone wall and 
filling around it to the top with soil as a means of defence. 
The Eastern end was circular in form and arched to the top so 
it, was covered with a large flat stone, which has been hauled 
away to use in the construction of the foundation of a house at 
Pemaquid Falls, also many of the Flag stones (flat stones used 
in covering the bottoms of the numerous cellars most likely, 
before the custom of cementing was practiced). The indica- 



"ftmrr 





Fort Rock of Pemaquid, showing 8 ft. of the Castle, discovered 1893, forming the 

West corner of Fort Wm. Henry, and found strong enough to build upon 

when the Castle was restored in 1907-8. Old Fort House at left, built 1729 




Six feet of the Front Wall of the Fort, as discovered about 1894, originally 6 feet 
thick and 22 feet high 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 93 

tions of another structure, most likely a stockade, are plainly 
visible extending to the west from that already described. 
There are about seventy feet of paved street in close proximity 
to the former fort, extending down toward the shore, with 
three nicely walled cellars on one side of it. There was until 
recently a long stone by the wall of one cellar, which was evi- 
dently used for a step to the door. This paving though much 
narrower than that found on this side of the river, was ap- 
parently well laid with a good gutter or water course on the 
side of it. A few years since, Miss Cinthy Horsford, whose 
father built the tower at Norumbega Park in Massachusetts, 
employed Rev. Henry O. Thayer to make investigations at 
this place which he did by employing a man to excavate for 
two days in one of the old cellars which are nearly filled with 
dirt now. He was rewarded by finding the stone wall still in 
good shape, laid in a mortar not familiar to our masons today, 
and none of them can surpass its workmanship. In the corner 
of the one cellar excavated was found a broken Crock of earth- 
en ware, odd brick, an old style hammer, and thirteen articles 
of use by civilized people, including glass, fragments of brick, 
hand made nails, a fine whet stone, fragments of crockery, part 
of a large door latch, and other iron implements which we do 
not know the name of, or what use they could have been put 
to in bygone days. The farm on which these remains are 
located was called the Lewis farm when I first knew of it, 
owned by Mr. Nathan Lewis, who had a large family of boys 
and girls. One of these boys used to dig about this old fort 
in company with Capt. L. D. McLain, when a young man, 
just to satisfy their curiosity. He informed me that while 
digging on the inside walls of the fort, which then were so 
high that they just came even with his chin, they used to find 
large fragments of crockery, and he secured cannon balls larger 
than those found on this side of the river. His most valuable 
prize was an old Machete like those used by the Spanish in 
our late war with them in Cuba. It was well wrapped in 



94 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

some preserving material, and proved to be made of good 
material, as Mr. McClain informed me that he had fastened it 
into a vice, and bent the end over until it was at a right angle 
with the side of the blade, without breaking, and then cut 
nails off with it without turning the edge. This instrument 
was 3 1-2 feet long, and had the letter H. stamped on one 
side of the blade. Unfortunately, this article and others was 
sold to Mr. Weatherby of Warren to add to his collection of 
curiosities, like hundreds of others found at various times at 
this place, which are now so scattered that it would be impos- 
sible to ever gather them up again. I have been shown a finely 
carved stone of bright red color, which was evidently a piece 
of jewelry, large keys, many small pipes, tileing and a large 
amount of other material, and a mineral formation of broken 
shells cemented together by some natural process, which can 
be found in no place on our shores nearer than Florida. Other 
remains of interest were those of a blacksmith shop, a tannery 
from which Mr. George N. Lewis secured a piece of tanned 
hide. A remarkably large cellar from which Capt. Will Davis, 
who purchased the farm of Mr. Lewis, shoAved me a drain lead- 
ing from those tan pits to the shore, which we measured and 
found to be 350 feet long and 4 feet square. I do not think 
any building in the town today would require as many stones 
for a foundation. A deep well is said to have existed near the 
fortification. Unfortunately the Captain had the timber of 
those tan pits all excavated and hauled to the bank of the 
river, where the tides, or ice, had taken them away before I 
knew of their loss as interesting relics. 

Across this river, opposite these remains, to the east, is a 
small cove, with steep bank on the north side of a little brook 
which empties there. About this outlet are remains of several 
old cellars, from which have been secured many relics of in- 
terest, consisting of parts of old guns, bullets, flints, small 
shot, several of them unattached, showing that they were run 
in a mould as bullets were at that time, a cleaver, large keys, 
and many other things mingled with broken arrow heads and 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 95 

Indian implements which would seem to indicate former con- 
tention between the occupants of this territory. From the 
cellar extending down the bank towards the water's edge was 
a fine stone paving, which indicates that the pavings here as 
elsewhere in this vicinity led to what was the former high- 
ways of the early settlers, when the land was thickly covered 
with great forests. The rivers, bays, and creeks must have 
afforded them their easiest way of traveling in their boats. 
Many old cellars on both banks of this river, and others of un- 
known age and occupancy, still exist to prove the early settle- 
ment of this place. My theory of belief about this small fort is 
that it was a settlement of the Spanish, judging from the relics 
found there. The Machete found there, the underground 
passage, supposed to lead to the shore, the Coquina, and other 
things, seem to be indications of that people. In the year 
1565 they had erected a strong fort at great expense at St. 
Augustine, Florida, which naturally must have required a 
great quantity of supplies from across the ocean. When those 
supplies were discharged the owners of those vessels would 
naturally seek something for a return cargo beside ballast. 
That nation, the French, and Portugese, we are informed, 
were engaged in fishing along these shores long before any 
attempt was made to settle the country; they came here in 
their ships and remained all through the summer. Those 
vessels which took goods to St. Augustine must have had 
ballast to make them safe to reach this shore, and this Coquina 
seems to have been the most convenient material to be ob- 
tained. When that was discharged here they could load with 
a cargo of fish or furs that would be a source of profit to them. 
In those times the habits of most nations, especially the Span- 
ish, when they came to this country, was to intimidate the 
natives by acts of wanton cruelty, as history informs us of a 
native of the West Indies who was lashed to a tree so that an 
officer could cut the poor victim to pieces to test the temper of 
his sword. And another had nine natives bound in front of 



96 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

each other to test his power with a spear while riding on 
horseback; he penetrated seven of them. If the people who 
settled there attempted that custom they doubtless found their 
match among the native Warwenocks of this region, for the 
name indicated "Fear nothing." At any rate no tale of his- 
tory has yet come down to us to even tell the name of their 
village or their fate. 

Nearer to us on the high, spruce covered top at the north 
side of our harbor, which is cleared from the summit to the 
shore, are the fine buildings and estate formerly owned by 
Capt. Ambrose Child who, with another sea captain residing 
near Damariscotta, competed with each other to see who 
would get the best looking estate. We think that Capt. Child 
was the winner, but, unfortunately, he did not long survive to 
enjoy it. Sailing from New York in his ship, loaded with 
wheat for England, about 1862 or 63, with one of his own 
sons and several other young men from this town, his career 
was ended, and all must have been swallowed up by the sea, 
like many who have gone before and left no mark to tell us 
where or how they perished. Such a fate seems sad. This 
place afterwards came into the possession of Mr. Charles P. 
Thibbetts, who named it, very appropriately, the Bay View 
House, and accommodated many people there during the sum- 
mer. In 1912 he passed away, and his son, William, ran it. 
During the last season it was let to a family by the name of 
Ireland, friends of Annie Russell. A large summer hotel 
kept by Mr. William Thibbetts, called the Edgemere, was 
located on this high shore a little further to the west, which 
was well patronized for several years until burned, to our dis- 
appointment. 

The view to be obtained from the location of these houses 
we do not think can be surpassed on our New England shores. 
It was said by Mr. John Kelley of Philadelphia, when stop- 
ping at the Edgemere a few years ago, although he had visited 
all the noted resorts across the ocean and in this country, he 








-^^^ • t "-3, fe- , • , ~~" ,- 
-^ '.->•*** ^O cr- — a ""■ -i ,- — ■<,— iJ 




^ 



Ut* 



3*>- 






^riiC* 







Castle at the West Corner of Fort William Henry, Originally Built Around the Fort 

Rock to Prevent the Indians from Using it Against the Settlement, as Formerly 

in Capturing Fort Charles. All the Land to be Seen from the Top of this 

Castle is a Part of Pemaquid 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 97 

had seen no view to surpass that from the cupalo of the Edge- 
mere, except that of the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence 
River. Other people have made similar expressions when 
witnessing the beautiful scenery, a combination of evergreen 
and deciduous trees, the waters of the inner and outer harbors, 
the bay and ocean dotted over with moving vessels, large and 
small, and islands extending as far as the eye can behold. 

Directly opposite the Castle and mouth of the harbor are 
seen many cottages, most of which belong to people with per- 
manent homes up the Kennebec river, near Augusta and 
Waterville, some of them from Massachusetts and some from 
New York; the one nearest to the shore was formerly occupied 
by Mr. John Stinson, then by Capt. Charles Sproul, then by 
Mr. Frank C. Penny, who with his wife moved to California, 
and they both died there within a few years. Mr. Penny sold 
the place to Mr. John Carty of New York City, a brother-in- 
law to Annie Russell. Her pleasant home is at the extreme 
end of this central peninsular, just beyond our view from this 
position, but plainly in view as one approaches or leaves this 
place by water, an account of which has been given on a pre- 
vious page. 

On turning back to take another view up the Pemaquid 
river, as far as we can discern it from the castle, we can see a 
one story farm house occupied by Mr. John Blaisdell and a 
family of his relatives. Two large barns are also visible and a 
small portion of the fine farm connected, which comprises a 
tract of land which the waters of this river nearly surround, 
forming a fertile peninsular. This was the former home of 
Col. Thomas Brackett, who was my great grandfather. His 
daughter Elizabeth, my grandmother, called Aunt Betsey, was 
born there. Col. Brackett came here from Boston a short 
time previous to the Revolution. I have been told that he 
was rather a wild boy there with his brothers, and his father 
purchased that farm and gave it to him that he might be re- 
moved from the temptations of the city. He became quite 



98 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

prominent in the town, and after being appointed an officer, 
was authorized to visit Worcester, Mass., to obtain ammuni- 
tion for his Company to use during the war. After the war he 
had a vessel which he used for traffic between this place and 
Boston. It is related that the farmers' crops nearly failed 
them here one season, and he having good credit at Boston 
obtained much grain and other goods of John Hancock, and 
trusted them to many of the towns people who could never pay 
him. His farm was mortgaged to secure the debt, yet his 
creditors let him occupy it as long as he lived. Afterwards 
John Hancock failed, although his father is said to have left 
him $75,000. An incident that occurred on board of his vessel 
when lying in this harbor serves to show us that there were 
slaves held here at that time, quite a number of whose de- 
scendants still reside here. The last name given them was 
that of their owners. Jack Brackett was the name of the one 
whom my ancestor owned. 

This story was told me when a small child by my grand- 
mother. One day her only brother named Thomas was on 
board the vessel in the harbor with the slave, who was em- 
ployed in the cabin below deck. He missed the noise of the 
boy on deck and going up was surprised to find him missing. 
He knew that he must be overboard and lost no time in going 
after him. He succeeded in his efforts in finding him and re- 
storing him, although he had nearly perished. My grand- 
mother informed me that ever after when her father visited 
Boston he would never bring home anything for his son, not 
even a pocket-handkerchief, without bringing the same thing 
for the slave. 

As I remember my grandmother she was a jolly little 
woman. She married Jacob Partridge, who once was a boon 
companion of the Indians then living here, and with others 
attended their dances and other amusements, but finally joined 
a society of Friends, or Quakers, who had a small Meeting in 
the upper part of the town, now set off and called Bremen. 




Old Fort House, Barn, and Tablet Inscribed : "A Large Number of Cannon 
Balls Fe'.l in This Vicinity." 




Looking West from Fort House, Showing Cellars of the Officers' Houses and 
One Side of Land Occupied by the Fort, with Rock Enclosed at Corner 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 99 

He afterwards moved to the town of Whitefield, Maine, which 
was seventeen miles from the nearest Quaker Church, yet he 
was so devoted a member that he used to walk there Sundays 
and Thursdays to attend their service, until able to procure a 
horse. He then moved to the town of Winslow, fifty miles 
from here. They raised a large family of boys and girls, part 
of which joined the society of Friends. James, one of the 
youngest, finally came into possession of this historic place, on 
which the fort was located. He presented it to the Monument- 
al Association for the historical benefit of our estate. This 
society being too small to accomplish the work desired, turned 
the property over to the State, and three Commissioners were 
chosen by the Governor to care for it. Mr. Partridge being a 
brother of my mother I sought this place of refuge when my 
health failed me, and with the kind care of my relatives gradu- 
ally recovered, and have devoted a good portion of the past 
twenty-five years to investigation of the history of this once 
noted locality. 

When about six years of age, my grandmother one day was 
telling me about the old Fort; stories that she had heard when 
a child living there. Said she: — 

My mother learned to write on birch bark when confined 
there in the Fort from fear of the Indians." 

Of course pens, ink and paper, were not to be had as readily 
as now, and I found when reclapboarding the old house a few 
years ago, that the builders had used this same material placed 
in strips, one overlaping the other, all up and down the seams 
of the plank with which the house is covered instead of boards, 
as building is done today. She spoke of cannon balls and 
bomb shells, and when I inquired of her what a bomb shell 
was, she gave this answer: A bomb shell is round like a 
cannon ball, made of iron, and hollow inside, which they fill 
with powder, then fire them up over your house and they crush 
down through the roof and tear things all to pieces when they 
explode." I judge she must have heard the stories of the 



100 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

people confined in the Fort when De Iberville captured it. 
For more than fifty years I learned no more of Pemaquid, and 
had no further interest there until recently. 

After the efforts of over twenty years we have interested 
enough people, so that we have succeeded in getting a small 
appropriation from the state sufficient to restore the Castle 
about the Old Rock at the West corner of the Fort. As we 
could not expect to obtain funds of the state sufficient to re- 
store the whole original structure, we deemed this the wisest 
plan to have the Castle restored, which forms a Monument and 
Museum, making a suitable place to preserve and exhibit the 
many relics gathered in this vicinity, also the Paintings, En- 
gravings, Books, &c. which we have been gathering for several 
years, and had been exhibiting in small temporary buildings 
close about the Old Rock. At last, during the summers of 
1907 and 8, the present structure was rebuilt again for the 
third time, upon the original foundations, which standing 
eight feet high, were found to be in good condition. This 
work was done at the expense of about $6,000, by an appropri- 
ation of the State of Maine. This Castle is a conspicuous 
object seen by approach to this place, either by land or water, 
with its three flags when flowing out beautifully from the tops 
of their staffs high above the Castle, first the English, then the 
French, and above them both our Stars and Stripes. 

The English Ensign is a present from Mrs. Annie (Russell) 
York, the actress, the French flag from Mr. Howland Pell of 
New York, a model of the white flag on which are to be seen 
the 15 Fleur de Lis, used at the date of the capture of this 
Fort in 1696 by De Iberville. The American flag was a pres- 
ent from our well known townsman Mr. Edward Drummond. 

No visitor to ancient Pemaquid should fail to stand upon the 
restored Castle over the top of the Old Fort Rock, in close prox- 
imity to the steamer landings and the Old Fort House," 
which is the best locality about here to obtain a fine panoramic 
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TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 101 

ocean, also the site of the former settlements and Forts here 
and across the river. All the land to be seen from this Castle 
is a part of Pemaquid. 

By a glance at the picture here shown with the bushes then 
about it, one can form an idea of how it appeared about the 
Rock in 1893, when we discovered the foundation of the old 
Castle which had been buried for 118 years, ever since the 
Revolution of the Americans against the English, when it was 
torn down to prevent them from using it against the inhabi- 
tants of this locality in 1775. The discovery that this wall of 
the Castle existed here, was made by finding a description of 
the Fort in 2nd Vol. Page 540, of Cotton Mathers writings, 
called the Magnolia. Many people knew that a fort once 
stood on this locality, but its foundation walls being covered 
entirely by the stone and crumbled mortar and dirt that had 
accumulated over them, so that no person living knew the 
form of the fort, or even the existence of the Castle wall. 

By excavating about ten feet of this wall, as shown in the 
next view, we found 8 feet of the wall still standing, and so 
strong and so well laid, in a mortar, the composition of which 
is a puzzle to masons to-day, that the Castle has been restored 
on this foundation which did not have to be taken down, 
though it was built over two centuries ago. By continuing 
excavations we found 6 feet of the front wall of the fort still 
intact, which is about 150 feet long. This was the Wall 
toward the sea," as described by Mather, 6 feet thick at the 
bottom and 22 feet high. We have now gotten all the foun- 
dations excavated and just enough restored so that people can 
walk all the way around the outlines of the fort and perceive 
that it covered about one half acre of ground. It is very plain 
to be seen how this foundation wall became covered so deep, 
the walls of the Castle being some three feet thick, the front 
wall thick and 22 feet high when the upper part was torn 
down the large mass of debris naturally fell against the founda- 
tion and kept accumulating till it formed a mound all along 



102 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

these walls, sloping off with an easy grade from thirty to fifty 
feet, so that people could easily walk up over the walls with- 
out mistrusting what was beneath their feet. They had been 
buried so long that the mortar on the surface had crumbled, 
dirt had accumulated, and with the growing vegetation had 
completely obscured the walls and debris from view, and it 
was fortunate they were thus saved, for by this we are able to 
prove that here once stood the strongest fort ever built by the 
English within what is now territory of the United States. 
These same stone are found to be the most convenient to re- 
store the walls, which have been torn down twice. 

The object in having this Castle restored was that we might 
have a suitable place to preserve and exhibit the many relics 
excavated about the fort, paintings and pictures pertaining to 
its History. By entering this Castle through the arched door- 
way on the east side, and proceeding up stairs, visitors will 
behold the most unique museum in this country. This second 
floor comes just to the top of the celebrated Rock of Pemaquid, 
over which is an opening, octagon in shape, about twelve feet 
across, showing the Rock, and from the great skylight above 
of the same size and shape, which admits light to this floor 
and the basement. Eight hard pine columns support the 
center of the roof leading up from each corner of the octagon 
angles. As one passes around the interior from left to right, 
first to be observed is a long hard pine table built on a curve 
to correspond with the sides of the Castle, on which are shown 
cases containing cannon balls found at the base of the front 
wall when it was unearthed, about 1890. Many souvenirs of 
the place and postal cards of historic interest are to be ob- 
tained. Next a fine large picture of one of the old Viking 
ships, such as crossed the ocean to these shores, in the year 
1001. A portrait of Sir John Popham who sent the Popham 
colony to this place in 1607. Next is a large painting of Sir 
William Phips, who built this the third fort here of stone, 
which took nearly two thirds of the whole appropriation of the 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 103 

State of Massachusetts for the year 1692. Phips was a re- 
markable man, a native of Maine, being born near Bath. He 
was the first American to be Knighted by the King of Eng- 
land, and the first American to be chosen Governor by him 
when the colonies of Plymouth and Massachusetts united. 
This portrait was painted by Miss Elizabeth Patterson of 
Wiscasset, Maine. The next is a painting of Sieur De Iber- 
ville, by the Artist Charles Huot, of Quebec, Canada. This 
man was the commander of the three men-of-war that captured 
Fort William Henry in 1696, four years after it was construct- 
ed. He dismantled it and took away the cannon, eight of 
which were brought from Portland by Phips. Portland was 
then called Falmouth. The French and Indians having killed 
all the inhabitants in 1690, leaving their bodies on the ground, 
where they remained until Phips visited the place two years 
later and finding their bones lying uncovered, buried them hu- 
manely, and took the cannon to Pemaquid. It is recorded in 
history, that the authorities of Massachusetts did not properly 
support or furnish soldiers to protect that region against their 
enemies in Fort Loyal at Portland. Those cannon were de- 
scribed by Mathews as eighteen pounders, which were the 
largest used on the fort, and with the carriages to move them 
about on the platform with, must have weighed a ton each. 
I judge by examining a gun that is mounted on the common 
at Bath, Maine, which was obtained from the British ship 
Samoset wrecked on Cape Cod during the Revolution. That 
cannon has the British mark of the broad Arrow on the top 
the same as the shot found here, that designates their make, 
the same as U. S. and other letters the make or ownership, of 
the nation to whom they belonged. By measuring I found 
the bore of the gun to be the same diameter as the large shot 
which we find here occasionally, by excavating about the Fort 
walls. Although the shot thrown by the French have been 
gathered in the field in range of the fort by the barrel and 
sold for old junk, we do not find but few of the British, for the 



104 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

self-evident reason that the two enemies when fighting ex- 
changed their shot so that those fired from the fort must lay at 
the bottom of the ocean. When the French found that they 
could not capture this fort with the guns and small shot they 
had, which would fire about one mile, as proved by distance 
from Johns Island and Beaver behind which they lay to attack 
the fort, and where the shot have been found most plenty, in 
the fort field near the burying ground. They had not force 
enough to penetrate even one thickness of the six foot front 
wall, which they attempted to destroy. Meeting with no 
success on the first day, at night they established a battery on 
the heights of the shore across the river, and using a new 
missel of war, for those times, (the bomb shell) soon captured 
the fort. I think this is the first fortification taken by their 
use on this continent. 

It seems that the English had no bomb shells or bomb 
proof covering for their protection, consequently when the 
French began to throw them over the walls of the Fort they 
were demoralized, the soldiers and all the people of the village 
being penned within these walls like a herd of cattle, and 
threatened with massacre by the two hundred Indians, who 
under Baron De Castine on shore, were assisting the French 
fleet. By the terms of surrender made they were to be escort- 
ed safely to the Islands, but if they continued to fight and 
were captured, then they were to be at the mercy of the Sava- 
ges, who threatened to massacre them all. When we consider 
the advantage of the French at this time and the men, women 
and children of all the settlement gathered within these walls, 
I hardly wonder that the commander gave up the fort to save 
their lives, although he was severely critized for so doing. 
We next have a painting of the three ships used by De Iber- 
ville to capture the fort. They are queer looking old craft, re- 
sembling the Carovel that were sailed to this country by 
Columbus, with high quarter deck, and the bowsprit running 
into the air at an angle of forty-five degrees, requiring a sail 
to be used beneath them, called a water sail. 




Gen. Joshua L. Chamberlain 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 105 

Next we have a plan of Fort William Henry, which was 
obtained by Mr. James P. Baxter, from the public records of 
London a few years ago, which is very interesting, as we have 
found the foundation walls which we have excavated to corres- 
pond with it. Then we have a portrait of General William 
North, who was the first person born in the last fort restored 
here, about 1729 and re-named Fort Frederick. He became a 
soldier under Washington during the Revolution. Beneath 
these pictures is a show case containing many relics excavated 
from the ground inside the walls of the fort. Here also is an 
Airport Cover from the battleship Maine, which was sunk in 
Havana harbor in 1898. Passing on, we have the paintings 
of the fight between the Boxer and Enterprise, which occurred 
at Pemaquid during the war of 1812, and of the old schooner 
Polly, said to be the oldest one in America, having been 
built in 1805. These were painted by a local artist, as well 
as one of the old style Pinkey Susan, the Constitution 
and the convict ship Success, a wonderful old craft, built of 
Teak wood, and one hundred and twenty-six years old, once 
used as a prison ship at Australia by the British. Ex-Govern- 
or Fernald's portrait. Ex-Gov. Gen. Joshua L. Chamberlain, 
is remembered as a person who when Commissioner of this 
place understood well the importance of it, and we regretted 
that he had to retire. A fine portrait of our friend T. J. Oak- 
ley Rhinelander of New York, who for the interest he has in 
our history, makes us a yearly contribution. Two more very 
interesting pictures are of the former owners of the old Fort, 
Capt. John Nichols and his wife, and others who have become 
interested in this place. 

Below these paintings and pictures above described, are 
large show cases well filled with many rare relics found about 
the old Fort and gathered in the town and state during the 
past twenty-five years. They consist of swords, guns, bayo- 
nets, cannon balls, bomb shells and fragments, bullets, 
piece of sail from the Enterprise that was in the battle off 



106 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

Pemaquid in 1813, old tin lantern, used without glass, ancient 
buttons, old iron knives and forks, pewter implements, hoes, a 
one pronged pick axe, old hammers, and a variety of Indian 
implements. I have found former camping grounds of Indians 
in a dozen places about here. We also have a small collection 
of books pertaining to Maine history. Around the octagon 
opening, before described, is first a show case with a small but 
rare collection of relics from two other fortifications near by, 
one of them in full view from this place on the opposite bank 
of the river, which I will describe later. An old red cradle is 
an object of interest, a tin baker for use by the old fireplaces, 
old baking oven door, flat irons and andirons, bear trap over 
one hundred years old, Frows, once used to split shingles 
when they were made to last, also for splitting out the Tree- 
nails to use in securing the planks to vessels. One small 
cannon, supposed to be of Spanish make. We have two relics 
from the ocean, one from the waters of Pemaquid, the other 
from the eastern shores of Maine; two of the largest lobsters 
ever exhibited in New England, forty-four inches in length 
and weighing, one 25 the other 26 pounds when caught. 
Many freak lobsters are on exhibition, and numerous fresh 
water lobsters from brooks at North Carolina, which but few 
people seem to know anything about, though there are many 
in this state. We have hundreds more relics, too numerous to 
mention, which are not on exhibition, because we have not 
yet been able to secure the show cases to put them in. Now 
by ascending another flight of stairs, visitors can have a splen- 
did panoramic view of uncommon interest from the top of the 
Castle. 

In the basement people can walk all around the great Rock 
upon the cement floor and paving of the Magazine located at 
the north end of the Rock and partly covered by its projection 
at the top, thus forming a partial bomb-proof cover for it, 
according to the French account, (we have to get both the 
French and English account for much information of Pema- 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 107 

quid) the English kept their ammunition and guns in this 
Magazine which was nicely paved with small cobble stones 
similar to those of a part of the paving of the streets. Many 
relics gathered about the fort and vicinity are shown about 
this Rock, on which is the conspicuous date of 1607, to com- 
memorate the important event of the first landing of the Eng- 
lish people at this place, 13 years previous to the landing of 
the Pilgrims at Plymouth. 

The great square mansion called the Old Fort House," 
crowns the highest part of the peninsula. As we gaze from 
our positions on the top of the Castle or from the decks of 
steamers entering the harbor, it is the most conspicuous object 
upon it, except the stone Castle. 

Between this Castle and village, looms up the Jamestown 
Hotel. At the east end of the peninsula a rough stone wall 
encloses a part of what Mrs. Hackelton in her poem calls 

a field of graves." A few years ago a large canning factory 
was located on the west side of this peninsula. Many de- 
pressions are seen here and there where cellars have not been 
entirely filled up, also nearly a level field some twenty or 
thirty feet above high water mark, sloping every way to its 
water boundary. 

On this peninsula which was once the busy metropolis of 
New England, I have been able to trace about forty of the 
three hundred walled cellars which were said to have been 
counted here in 1835. Here near the mouth of this river, by 
our Rock of Pemaquid, is the spot where Capts. Popham and 
Gilbert landed with fifty of their people, August 10th, 1607; 
there they were met by Nahanada, who had been taken to 
England by Capt. Geo. Waymouth in 1605, the chieftain of 
this place, with one hundred of his dusky warriors with drawn 
bows and arrows, who welcomed them to this country. 

To find out when that old mansion was built, has been one 
of my puzzles about this place for the last decade. Soon after 
coming to Pemaquid in 1888, a lady named Mrs. Mahala Paul, 



108 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

nearly ninety years of age, then visiting here from Boston, 
who was born at Pemaquid Point, informed me that it was 
built by Col. David Dunbar. By referring to Prof. Johnson's 
history, I find that Dunbar came here in 1729 to rebuild Fort 
Frederick on the foundation of Fort William Henry, the first 
stone fort here erected by Phips. If her account is correct, 
the old house would now be about one hundred and eighty-five 
years old. 

I am indebted to Mr. James H. Varney, Register of Deeds 
at Wiscasset, Maine, for much valuable information concerning 
this place. 

From the Probate Records of Lincoln County, Maine, 1760— 
1800, V. 18, P. 169. 

In the name of GOD amen. I Alexander Nickols of Bristol in the 
County of Lincoln Esquire, considering the uncertainty of this mortal 
life, and being of sound and perfect mind, blessed be almighty GOD 
for the same. Do make and publish this my last Will and testament 
in manner and form following that is to say, First. — ****** 

Then follows details of property willed to his wife and other 
members of his family, and to his youngest son the following: 

I also give and bequeath to my youngest son John and his Heirs and 
Assigns All that my Mansion house, barn, buildings, and tenements 
situate lying and being at Pemaquid Old Fort, in Bristol afore said, 
with all my other lands in lots or parcels situate lying and being there 
at or there abouts. ****** 

( Sallie Simenton 
Witness < Ezra Poland 

( Robert McLintock 

Probated 2 July, 1799. 

From Capt. Thomas Nichols and his sister Deborah Morton, 
of Round Pond, I have gained much information about the old 
house and its occupants. Capt. John Nichols and family occu- 
pied the place till about 1840. He was the grandson of Capt. 
Alexander Nichols, who held a lieutenant's commission and 
was sent to command Fort Frederic about 1 750, and is sup- 
posed to have been the last commander of the forts here. 




Capt. John Nichols, Former Owner of Old Fort House 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 109 

Alexander Jr., commanded a militia company during the time 
of the French and Indian war; after the war was over [l759] 
he settled at Pemaquid, and by the above will conveyed the 
old mansion to Capt. John, which brings its history down 
where we can trace it to date. 

Capt. Nichols informed me that the old house was not 
square originally; the front was the same shape as now, ex- 
tending back about two-thirds the present size, which can be 
seen by the sills and foundations of the original chimneys, one 
of solid stone, the other containing a great archway, such as 
were used by the farmers many years ago for storing vegetables 
during the winter time. Four great fireplaces, which con- 
sumed an abundance of wood, supplied heat for cooking and 
comfort for all its inmates during the winter time. 

This house has been changed over so much, both inside and 
out, that it now presents little of its former appearance. The 
two original chimneys were taken down about 1860, leaving 
space enough for four good sized rooms on the two stories 
where they with their fireplaces, ovens, ashpits, ete., were 
located. New windows have taken the place of the old ones 
which formerly admitted light for the interior, through green 
tinted seven by nine panes of glass. The old substantial 
blinds are gone, the fancy caps and fluted casings that once 
ornamented the doorways have given place to plainer finish. 

Relic hunters began the change on the outside some years 
ago by pulling out many of the hand-made nails which secured 
the weather-beaten, rift and scarfed clapboards to the upright 
planking, and they had to be replaced with new modern clap- 
boards and nails. 

When it was repaired a few years ago, it was found that 
planks one and one-half inches thick were used instead of 
boards to cover the walls, and were secured with hand-made 
spikes to the solid frame; they were placed upright instead of 
horizontal as to-day; every seam was covered with wide strips 
of birch bark instead of prepared paper as used now. The 



110 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

space between the boarding and planking was found to be 
filled with brick and mortar, no doubt to prevent the bullets 
of the Indians from penetrating the walls. 

Capt. Nichols drew for me a plan of a long rambling ell 
which once led off at a right angle with the main house, 
toward the barn facing to the southwest, and was conveniently 
divided into small rooms such as were required at that time. 
First a pantry or milk room, then a wood shed, next a carriage 
house, house and a room for the pigs. 

Capt. Nichols fell in love with a fair damsel who resided 
there when he was young, and his eyes brightened with 
pleasure as he related the story of many happy days and even- 
ings passed with her by the open fireside of the old mansion 
and of the jolly sleighing parties they enjoyed in winter when 
they had no occasion to return home at an early hour. She 
owned the odd name of Zuba Blake, but afterward consented 
to have it changed to Nichols. 

The next owner of the old house was Mr. Samuel P. Blais- 
dell, who came into possession of it about 1840, and carried on 
the occupation of farming. He was an uncle of Mr. Calvin C. 
Robbins, now of Bristol Mills, but who formerly resided here. 
I am indebted to him for much valuable and authentic in- 
formation about the old fort foundations, pavings, cannon ball, 
and other relics to be mentioned in another chapter. 

Col. James Erskine of Bristol Mills, purchased the old home- 
stead of Mr. Blaisdell about 1845, but never came here to re- 
side. He sold it to Mr. James W. Partridge, who moved here 
from the upper part of the town on January 11, 1847. There 
was then only one other house in sight, and the old mansion 
had the reputation of being haunted. The farm then includ- 
ed, with the Fort field and site of the old settlement, over four 
hundred acres, that part on Pemaquid Point being covered 
with a fine growth of wood, principally spruce. 

Mr. Partridge and wife Sarah S. (formerly Erskine) occupied 
the place till his death on August 14, 1888. They reared a 




Mrs. Capt. John Nichols 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 111 

large and honorable family, three of whom reside here and 
three who have sought a home and business elsewhere. Their 
oldest boy, Eben H., died when quite young, and the oldest 
daughter, Jennie E., who was the beloved wife of Mr. Nathan 
George Lewis of this place, died June 11, 1895. She had the 
honor of being the first postmistress of Pemaquid Beach, and 
received the respect and confidence of all who knew her. 

Hundreds of pleasant stories are connected with that old 
home, while the domicile of the Partridge family, and hun- 
dreds of people can say, beneath that roof I have passed 
some of the happiest days of my life." It has sheltered more 
people than live in sight of it to-day, the white man, the 
Indian who slept wrapped up in his blanket on the brick 
hearth by its open fireplace, and the Negro slaves of its early 
owners. Beneath that roof have been enjoyed the fond lovers' 
courtships, the wedding ceremony, the happy days of the 
honeymoon " with song, dance and music, and oft the gay- 
est lads and lassies gathered there for social parties and made 
the old walls ring with echoes of their joy and mirth. Many 
a child first saw the light of day within those walls, and there 
with the last sad rites to mortals given, has been sung the sad 
refrain, which was sung there at the funeral of Mr. James W. 
Partridge. 

We'll never say good-bye in Heaven, 

We'll never say good-bye, 

For in that land of joy and song, 

We'll never say good-bye. 

A story will illustrate the generosity of Mr. Partridge and 
his family of whom it used to be said, they seem to run a 
free hotel there." A few years ago the fine little steam yacht 
Carita, owned by Mr. Alfred Davenport of Boston, brought 
here a party of his friends from Squirrel Island to look over 
the old ruins. As a part of them stood near the old house, 
one of our citizens, Mr. Myrick H. Marson, while speaking to 
them of Mr. Partridge, said: " I came here on one occasion to 



112 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

transact some business with him. I called him to the door 
and informed him of my business, but he would not listen to 
me till after dinner, urging m e to come in and eat with the 
rest. From the door I could see a large company sitting at 
the table and I said, ' I do not want to go in there and eat 
with all those strangers, I don't know any of them.' Oh, 
never mind that,' Mr. Partridge said, / don t know them my- 

self: " 

I have heard uncle Jim," as he was often called, say, I 
never begrudged a person a meal of victuals in my life," and I 
never heard his wife or daughters complain about the extra 
amount of work they must have been obliged to do for all their 
company. With all their generosity and kindness to others, 
they have always had an abundance, and none of the family 
have ever suffered for lack of food, clothing, fuel, or any of the 
necessities of life. 

I remember on one occasion Capt. Mellvin from Massa- 
chusetts, who used to reside here, came to the old house with 
his newly wedded bride to enjoy their honeymoon " and 
there met many other visitors who used to come from Vassal- 
boro and other towns back in the country to stop a few weeks 
by the seashore. Twenty-five people found food and shelter 
there on that occasion, and from ' morn till eve " their song 
and laughter made the old house ring with pleasant echoes. 
Sailing and fishing parties were enjoyed down the bay by most 
of the company on pleasant days, which were often extended 
far into the night. The little drag boat, called the Come 
On," owned by the author's brother, Jacob Alonzo, having a 
fine cabin, was a favorite with the young people then. 

" Uncle Jim " had five sons then living, and two daughters, 
who by their good graces soon attracted the sons of other men 
and it was a singular coincidence that the oldest daughter, 
Jennie E., whose father owned the site of old forts on this 
side of the Pemaquid River, should select from her many suit- 
ors, Mr. George N. Lewis, the son of Mr. Nathan Lewis, who 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 113 

owned the site of the other fort and settlement across the 
river, even the name of which no one knows to-day. 

Mr. Lewis used to come across on his regular visits to the 
old mansion in a small skiff, (he was a small man himself) 
which served him better than a horse and buggy to drive 
around by land. One night some mischievous boys played a 
trick on him by hauling his team," as they called it, up 
from the river bank where he had left it to return home as 
usual, when his visit was ended. They took it in through the 
back door to the kitchen, tied it to the door latch and piled 
up in front of it a generous supply of good hay. When George 
returned to the shore during the small hours of the night, he 
was surprised to find that his skiff had vanished. He was 
obliged to return and remain at the old mansion till morning. 
But he, being a good natured lad, full of fun and mischief and 
fond of playing tricks upon other people, could not well com- 
plain of this one which had been played upon himself. 

A jolly, roving lad named Asa Johnson Dodge, captured 
Mr. Partridge's youngest daughter Clara. He used to drive a 
team called a Peddler Cart," dispensing dry goods and 
Yankee notions to the people all over the town of Bristol. 
After marriage they settled down at Pemaquid Falls, where he 
carried on a thriving business with a store from which you 
could obtain all kinds of goods, from a pump tack to a bag of 
grain. He became town treasurer, often presided at town 
meetings, served his townsmen as representative to the legis- 
lature, was postmaster several years till about 1897, being 
assisted bj r his wife and family. 

Pemaquid being too small for his growing ambition he re- 
moved his family, consisting of Mrs. Dodge, three daughters 
and two sons, to Roxbury, to swell the population of Massa- 
chusetts, which has absorbed so many of our good citizens, to 
be regretted by their friends remaining here. 



114- TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

A Remarkable Duck Story. 

A story now occurs to me that has connection with the old 
barn as well as an inmate of the old house; it is a tough duck 
story, but having heard it from the lips of Mr. Partridge and 
his two daughters, Jennie and Clara, I cannot doubt their 
words or those of many other witnesses still living, who are 
willing to testify to the truth of the circumstances here relat- 
ed. 

Some twenty years ago Mr. Partridge had a small flock of 
eight ducks which he delegated to the care of Miss Clara, giv- 
ing her the proceeds of their daily supply of eggs. She soon 
found that she was getting each day one more egg than there 
were ducks, which at first puzzled her very much. The ducks 
were not liberated from their pen in the old barn, until they 
had laid in the morning, and to find out which one laid the 
double quantity, they shut them up separately until the right 
one was found. This was soon accomplished; and that duck 
became a pet, and her fame was known for fifty miles around. 
This noble bird kept up her profitable occupation through the 
whole summer season, and the next year she beat her own 
record by laying three eggs per day. They always used to let 
her out after she had laid two eggs, but one day they dis- 
covered a nest full of duck's eggs in a bed of tansy just south 
of the old barnyard wall, and soon found that she was laying 
two eggs for Miss Clara and one for herself. This Mr. Henry 
Partridge now tells me they proved by keeping her shut up in 
her cage, made of boards and laths, till they secured all she 
laid. 

After listening to this story, which all three of the sons now 
residing here verify, Mr. James Partridge adds, I also have 
heard father say to people to whom he told the story, If you 
don't believe me you can take that duck home with you and if 
she doesn't lay twenty-one eggs in seven days, I will give you 
one hundred dollars,' " and Mr. Fred A. Partridge adds to his 
brother's testimony, "Yes, and I have heard him say if she 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 115 

don't lay you twenty-one eggs in seven days you need not 
bring her back." 

The loss of the whole flock occurred when the old barn was 
burned. Deacon Wm. Foster who came from Rockport, Mass., 
and used to keep a store here, and was for several years Super- 
intendent of the Sabbath School at New Harbor, was one of 
the first at the fire, and he and Mrs. Partridge saw the flock 
apparently very much frightened by the fire, when they flew 
away across the river and were lost to view. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



The Old Cellars of Pemaquid. 

IN many places along the lines of buried paving and in other 
localities where we have not yet traced any paved streets, 
are depressions, generally with small mounds about them, 
which indicate by the difference in the vegetable growth upon 
them and their composition, that they are composed of soil 
thrown up from beneath the original surface. 

There are certain seasons of the year when these cellars can 
be seen to better advantage; if you look for them after the 
grass has grown up quite tall you may see but little indications 
of their existence; but just after haying time, or in the spring 
when the snow has melted away upon the fields these de- 
pressions will remain filled with ice and snow for a long time, 
and can be readily distinguished in distinct rows for a long 
distance. 

The only cellars remaining on this little peninsula which 
have not been partially filled up, except by rubbish, are two that 
lie just west of the old fort house, near the western walls inside 
of the boundary line of the old fort, where were located the 
houses of the officers. The walls of these cellars which have 
been exposed to the elements for more than a century, still 
show the effects of good workmanship; no better walls can be 
laid by any mason to-day with natural stone than in these 
cellars and others which I have examined. It is a well 
known fact to all stone-masons that walls of this kind must be 
properly laid to prevent the frost from tearing them to pieces 
in Winter, after they have been exposed by the destruction of 
the building above. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 117 

Mr. John Stinson in his testimony read before the Maine 
Historical Society, informs us that he counted three hundred 
cellars here in 1835. 

Mr. William Erskine when looking over the place with me 
a few years ago, said, I have counted over seventy cellars on 
one street along that creek," pointing to the east side of the 
peninsula which is bounded by McCaffrey's creek. 

Most of them have been so long cultivated over that they 
cannot be readily located now. According to Mr. Partridge's 
account the largest one of the depressions on this street was 
the cellar of Morgan McCaffrey for whom the creek was named 
(some claim it was called Cox's Cove previously) and whose 
gravestones attract much attention in the old burying ground. 
It is located about one-half way from the Hotel to the head of 
the creek. That with others along that shore has been filled 
up some since I came here. 

A large bed of strawberries has been cultivated about the 
McCaffrey cellar; it was a convenient place to throw in stray 
weeds, turf and stone, and in that way the cellars are finally 
evened up with the surrounding fields until their locality can- 
not be discerned. 

In 1888, Mr. Partridge once said to me, I have filled up 
over forty of these cellars since I owned this place in about 
forty years." 

Capt. J. B. Fitch who told me about the pavings, said, 
' along this main street were cellar walls thick enough, and 
heavy enough to support any block of buildings in the city. 
Your father (Elijah P. Cartland) helped me dig out one of 
several found on Fish Point when I built a wharf and store 
there, just before the civil war, and we found the bottom 
floored over with logs hewn on three sides and bedded nicely 
together in the soil. We found in one cellar some relics; one 
was a gun made before the flint-locks were. It had a flash- 
pan as large as a small saucer." 

We have the evidence of many people who have helped to 



118 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

fill the cellars here; sometimes using paving stones, sometimes 
stone from the old forts, and sometimes soil. 

On Pemaquid Point, Rutherford's, Witch Island, on each 
side of John's Bay, on the banks of the Damariscotta, the 
John's and the Pemaquid rivers are hundreds of cellars, many 
of them overgrown and surrounded with a growth of large 
trees. Many choice relics have been excavated from some of 
these cellars, and no doubt thousands more remain, which will 
interest the antiquarian when brought to light. No one to- 
day can tell the story of the past that belonged with every one 
of them, but all I have known to be dug out have furnished 
evidence of the civilization of the former owners whose homes 
were once located above those lonely excavations. 




■. .-v ' .. ■ '-■'. .._ ', -.._ii-.^- r-j^^i:^"*«*g'' 






- - - — : -r-rr-^— 




: 



Sidewalk and section of Street over 40 feet wide, showing depth of Soil ac- 
cumulated over it. Pavings extending nearly one-half mile have been 
found here, with many stone walled Cellars beside them 



CHAPTER XVII. 



Ancient Pavings. 
Green is the sod where, centuries ago, 

The pavements echoed with the thronging feet 
Of busy crowds that hurried to and fro, 

And met and parted in the city street; 
Here, where they lived, all holy thoughts revive, 

Of patient striving and of faith held fast; 
Here, where they died, their buried records live; 

Silent they speak from out the shadowy past. 

M. W. Hackelton. 

THE greatest mystery of all the relics found at old Pema- 
quid within the last century are her wonderful and ex- 
tensive pavings, beyond the reach of any recorded history yet 
brought to light, as to their origin, and yet showing where the 
people have left them as originally laid, the best specimens of 
that kind of work done with natural stone that I have ever 
seen. The extent and workmanship which I have been able 
to examine a portion of, in three different localities, two on 
the east and one on the west side of the river, indicate the 
settlement of a people well advanced in civilization. 

Having heard much about the paved streets before I com- 
menced investigations here, I have taken much pains to obtain 
correct information concerning the history as far back as possi- 
ble, and with the time and means at my disposal, to examine 
all that has been exposed during the last decade. 

As soon as my health would permit after coming here, I 
began excavations and work on a cottage to cover the pavings 
and preserve the relics found. Mr. Partridge kindly showed 
me a convenient spot and gave me the free use of it. But " 



120 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

said he, speaking from his past experience, it will be no use 
for you to uncover it unless you can protect it with a building 
for the relic hunters will carry away every stone you uncover 
unless you protect them." 

I did not have the funds to pay for a very elaborate building; 
but after some delay put up a structure 12 x 15 feet, and one 
story, using the paving for the floor and on shelves placed 
relics and curiosities that were gathered here, forming a sort 
of a museum and named it the Paving Cottage." I could 
only exhibit a small piece some 10x12 feet square, as the 
platform on which people stood to view it with rail in front to 
keep them from going on to it, covered a part from view. 

This was not satisfactory to me or all of my visitors, rather 
a small exhibit where so much had been claimed and some 
would naturally say, Well they might have laid that some 
time in the night to have it to exhibit." But I knew that 
there was more of it joining what I had on exhibition, for by 
having a narrow trench dug at right angles from the fine 
cobble-stones toward the fort foundations, I found paving ex- 
tending that way thirty-three feet, with a good water course 
and curbstone on the outer edges. This was of flat stones 
filled in with some cobbles from the shore to make it all com- 
pact. 

I finally got permission of the heirs of Mr. Partridge, he 
having died in 1888, to uncover more of the paving, and I 
then had the building moved to the northern edge of it and 
enclosed it with a fence, and having a raised platform over 
part of it. This gives visitors a good opportunity to view and 
examine both kinds of stone work. So we have now on exhi- 
bition what appears to be a short section of a street about ten 
feet above high water mark, leading down a fine, easy sloping 
field toward a small sand beach, an inbent line of the harbor 
shore, a pretty place to bathe, and where the children love to 
play and build forts of the fine white sand, in summer. 

The larger stones form what we term the main street, which 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 121 

is thirty-three feet in v/idth, including the gutters, or water 
courses. The finer work of cobble-stones evidently taken from 
the beach near by is eleven and one-half feet wide. The 
longer cobbles were selected and placed across the sidewalk on 
lines two feet and one-half apai't, then the space filled in with 
smaller ones. One row is laid diagonally, as if to form the 
corner of a square yard, and it might have been thus fancifully 
done because it was the front yard paving of some former 
mansion; no prettier place could have been found along the 
shore, and it was in close proximity to the fort. The other 
part we found to be laid in sections, when we got it swept off, 
for no one can see the fine workmanship until the seams are 
cleared of soil and all swept off, because the uneven stones 
could not be laid level like flat ones. Unobserving people 
would pass over that exposed by the plough because the plough 
can go no lower than the tops of the highest stones, leaving all 
others entirely covered with soil. 

All this was done systematically, for I found by measure- 
ments that the larger paving sloped from the center either way 
to the gutters, which are nicely laid with selected stone for 
the curbing and finer cobbles for the center, all compactly 
placed, and serving to drain both parts of the pavings, which 
were found to be twelve inches beneath the soil at the center, 
and fifteen at the edges. That is not a great depth compared 
with volcanic burials of ancient streets, or in localities that 
have the wash of running water; but for this locality it seems 
deep, being on a nearly level field, and in other places on the 
very highest part of the peninsula. 

At first I thought it might have been caused by decayed 
vegetable matter which had, year by year for centuries, ac- 
cumulated there, but I gave up that theory when I found it 
was covered with rich soil well mixed with course and fine 
gravel. It is now thought to be the work of angle or earth 
worms, and that theory has some foundation from the fact that 
every spring and fall they throw up the soil between the 



122 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

cobbles so that we have frequently to sweep it up and take it 
away to prevent the stones from being completely hidden from 
view. 

This corresponds with experiments made by Prof. Darwin 
some years ago with a piece of board, which he laid flat on the 
soil in his garden; the worms soon covered it from view with 
soil which they brought to the surface. Few people can real- 
ize the amount of work those little earth worms can do unless 
they study their habits. 

Mr. Partridge's Evidence. 

As we walked up the field from the shore where the cottage 
now stands, Mr. Partridge said, " I have traced the paving up 
through this field by ploughing and digging to the road; and 
from there on to where the gates of the forts were located in 
front of the old house, then out to the burying-ground. I 
have tried several times to plough them out, but found them so 
large that the only way to get rid of them was to dig them up 
and haul them away. Some years ago a gentleman from Ban- 
gor, Maine, came here and stopped several weeks, making 
surveys and a plan of the pavings found here. He was an in- 
valid and I used to have to help him out of bed in the morn- 
ing." I could not get any information about this person or 
the results of his work, as Mr. Partridge had forgotten his 
name. 

J. Reed Partridge, a brother of the above named James, now 
residing at Bremen, went over this field with me and pointed 
out the locality of the main street as he saw it when he helped 
his brother to plough up the field many years ago. 

Capt. Lorenzo D. McLain's Evidence. 
He is a boat builder, and has resided at the Beach many 
years. One day, about three years ago, he surprised me by 
bounding in through the doorway of the Paving Cottage, and 
with a pleasant salutation said, as he made a solid landing on 
the platform with both feet at once, " There ! this is the first 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 123 

time I have ever been inside of this building since you put it 
up." 

After examining the relics and pavings he gave me the 
following information: When I was a small boy, about 1855 
I think it was, I helped your uncle Jim plough this field. He 
had got a new No. 8 plough and was going to plough his land 
deeper than he had been doing. He had Capt. Alfred Brad- 
ley (still living) and Willard Jones with two yoke of oxen, 
and my job was to hold down the plough beam and keep it 
clear. 

Every time we came 'round on this side of the field the 
plough would come up some ways in spite of all we could do, 
and it appeared to slide along on something like a ledge, but 
we could not think a ledge would be so even. 

At last he got out of patience and turning to me said, 
Jemes rice,' that was his worst swear expression; boy, go up 
to the barn and get a hoe and the crowbar, and we will see 
what there is here.' Then we found this paving, and where 
we first cleared it off it seemed to be laid in cement; and we 
had to dig a long time with the crowbar before we could get 
out the first stone." 

When we uncovered the larger stone paving I found it 
had the appearance of having been disturbed on the part now 
covered by the platform. I inquired of Capt. McLain about 
that. Oh ! " said he, that is the work of the relic hunt- 
ers. When uncle Jim first found this he opened quite a piece 
and left it uncovered. One day I came along here and found 
that the relic hunters had dug out the smaller stones and taken 
them away; then uncle Jim had to cover it up to save it." 

By examining the soil where the stone had been taken out, 
I found brick, charcoal, and other indications that the paving 
had been laid over ruins of some former structure, as I have 
before found relics beneath stone-work that showed plainly 
that the last structure was erected over the ruins of some 
previous one. This goes to prove the history of the place, 



124 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

stating that it has been repeatedly built up and destroyed. 
Mrs. Everett Lewis told me of indications of cellars, a fire- 
place, etc., found alongside this paving many years ago. 

David Chamberlain, Esq., of this town, an aged gentleman 
then residing at Round Pond, Maine, pointed out a spot near 
the road and on a line with the paving now uncovered, where 
he uncovered a portion of the cobbles in 1869, to exhibit to 
the Members of the Maine Historical Society. Said he, I 
uncovered a piece there in the morning thirty feet long and 
before night every stone was taken away." 

Capt. Joseph B. Fitch of Chicago, who used to trade here, 
visited the place a few years ago and kindly went with me 
over the old paved streets leading out to the burying-ground, 
and pointed out the spots where, when a boy, he used to pick 
raspberries from bushes that grew up beside the curbstones of 
the street, which were afterward hauled away to the river 
bank. 

Mr. Nathan Goold of Portland informed me that he visited 
Pemaquid about twenty-five years ago, and Capt. Patrick 
Tukey showed him pavings on that street and also between the 
cellars. Said he, I think those people must have been pav- 
ing cranks, to have paved their streets and between their 
houses too." 

In the testimony given by Mr. Henry Varley in the account 
of the celebration given here in 1871, there were three points 
left unsatisfactory to me, in his statement that, I was en- 
gaged with other men more than one week in digging up the 
pavement of one street." 

That account failed to locate the street, give the number of 
men employed, or tell what they did with the paving stone. 
One day Capt. Patrick Tukey of Long Cove, came here to look 
over the ruins with me, and when standing upon the old Rock 
and gazing over the field he remarked, I used to work on 
this. place many years ago for Capt. Nichols." 

I inquired Did you ever see any one digging up any of the 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 125 

paved streets here ?" Oh ! yes I remember that Mr. Varley 
dug up one that ran from the shore to the burying-ground." 
How many men did he have employed with him?" 
Well, I can't just remember, but three or four I should say." 
' What did they do with the stone, Captain?" 
Well, they had a cart and oxen, and after they dug them 
up with their pickaxes and crowbars they put them in the cart 
and hauled them to the shore and dumped them over the 
bank." 

I was pleased to obtain this statement because it gave more 
definite information and confirmed my idea that it must have 
been a street with a steep grade where the soil had not 
gathered over it sufficiently deep to admit of cultivation with- 
out reaching it. 

I have heard it said that the first indications of paving seen 
by recent settlers was on a field of grain where, during a 
drought, that above the paving suffered most, and being stunt- 
ed, plainly marked its outline. By that means we are able to 
plainly trace all the buried walls of the fort, and the cellars 
can be traced with much more accuracy when the grass is 
short in spring or soon after being mowed over. 

Mr. John Blaisdell who now resides near here on the old 
Col. Brackett estate, once showed me where Mr. Partridge 
ploughed over a cross street leading down from the main street 
toward the river, perhaps two-thirds of the distance from the 
old barn to the burying-ground. I was driving the cattle," 

said he, and the plough struck the edge of a flat stone and 
turned it out from among the rest, and uncle Jim made me 
stop the cattle, and he went back and put the stone in its 
place again." 

About three years ago I had an opportunity to examine a 
portion of the main street pavings which were exposed well 
out toward the old cemetery, when the field was ploughed. 
It was in quite good condition, and paved with quite large 
cobbles. 



126 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

Beside the many places where I have examined it, I have 
been shown another place where it was found on the bank of a 
small, sandy cove, near the present village, and close to the 
residence of Capt. George R. McLain and Llewellyn McLain. 
That found up the river, will come under an account of a trip 
to the Pemaquid Falls, three miles up this noted winding 
river. 

I will close this chapter by a quotation from the report of 
the Maine Historical Society, of August 25 and 26, 1869, by 
the Secretary, Mr. Edward Ballard: 

By the diligence of some members of the local committee, a portion 
of the paved street had been laid bare by the removal of the super- 
incumbent soil, to the depth of eight to eighteen inches, over which the 
ploughshare had often been driven in former years. The regular 
arrangement of the beach-stones, the depression for the water course to 
the shore, the curbstones, the adjoining foundation-stones still in place, 
articles of household furniture and implements of the artisan, all these 
and other concurring facts proved, beyond the possibility of a doubt, 
that a European community had dwelt on this spot, and had made this 
long street in imitation of what they had left in the mother land. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



The Old Cache. 

THIS word is derived from the French and is pronounced 
as though it was spelled casha. The definition as given 
in Webster's Dictionary, is a hole in the ground for hiding 
provisions which it is inconvenient to carry. They are quite 
common in our Western States now, and are used for hiding 
and preserving provisions, etc. The one found here was called 
a cistern, because no one knew its proper name or what it was 
built for. For many years after its discovery the structure re- 
mained an attractive relic, and a puzzle to all who examined 
it, until it vanished, brick by brick, like many of the other 
choice relics that have been excavated here. 

This cache was different from anj' other I have ever learned 
of in our country, being walled up with odd shaped bricks, 
trapezoidal in form, so that when placed side by side, they 
formed a circle, as ordinary bricks do a straight line, and they 
were laid in a mortar composed principally of clay. It was 
about ten feet deep and nearly seven in diameter; once entire- 
ly covered and hidden beneath the soil. It was located on 
the bank of the river a few rods northerly from the fort. 
When constructed, the builders must have dug a hole in the 
ground exactly as in digging a well, and then used those odd 
bricks to form a wall, arching them over at the top, some two 
feet below the surface of the soil, so as to leave a small hole 
only at the top, just large enough for a person to crawl down 
and back through, called a manhole." The " manhole " 
was evidently covered with a flat stone, and then by covering 
the top and removing the surplus soil dug out, and putting 



128 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

back the turf, as is done when finishing a lawn, or banking 
with cut turf, the growing grass or other vegetation would 
soon hide all evidence of the structure, with its store of valu- 
ables, or food, well hidden from the enemies of the builders. 

There must have been times when food was of more value 
than gold or silver to some of our early colonists, when the 
enemies of the early settlers had attacked them, and plundered 
all their provisions at the forts and settlements, and driven the 
inhabitants to the islands. Of what use was money then ? 
Where could they go to obtain food with it ? Portland, Bos- 
ton or New York did not exist; but when the enemy left, or 
when night came on, they could return in boats and secure 
their "staff of life." It seems to me that for some such 
emergency this structure was built, and it might have been 
used to hide other valuables beside. It took the old sailing 
vessels sometimes twelve weeks to cross the ocean, as we learn 
by the records of Richard Mather, concerning the James and 
Angel Gabriel. Without some such provision of surplus food 
they must have subsisted on the products of the ocean, the 
clam-fiats and mussel-beds, or wild game, a long time, before 
they received food or supplies from across the Atlantic. I 
have found accounts of the early settlers that verify this state- 
ment of their food supply of clams, etc., upon which they had 
to subsist sometimes for many weeks. 

The story of the discovery of this cache is as follows: Mrs. 
Mahala Paul, the old lady before mentioned in connection 
with the old fort house, and a relative, Miss Selina Upham, 
were walking along the bank of the river, which there forms 
the southern side of the inner harbor, and noticed some of 
those odd shaped bricks, which had fallen down to the water's 
edge, with the soil which had been undermined by the high 
tides and sea. (That work of the sea still goes on and I have 
noticed in the last decade, places where the soil has been 
washed away, back five feet or more.) They traced the bricks 
to their source near the top of the bank, and there beheld the 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 129 

whole circle of the structure outlined with those bricks, show- 
ing where the bank, when it slid down, took off the top of the 
cache. The storms had washed off soil from above, and com- 
pletely filled the structure. 

The ladies hastened to the house, and found the people just 
eating dinner; considerable excitement was manifested on the 
recital of their discovery, and those at dinner stopped eating 
and repaired to the cache, the men carrying tools to dig with. 
Mr. James W. Partridge, Elijah P. Cartland, George N. Lewis 
and Alonzo Partridge, were the men who dug it out, but they 
were disappointed; empty was the structure, and its treasures 
gone. Several y ears after coming here, we had a heavy storm, 
driving the water of the Bay further up than usual, and under- 
mining the bank where this structure was, and exposing quite 
a piece of it still standing, which I was glad to see, and took 
pains to immediately protect it from further exposure by the 
sea, and from the relic hunters. I have since built a sea wall 
about 100 feet long, reaching out by it, which will protect it, 
I trust, until we can obtain funds to restore it. 

This structure ought to be rebuilt as a monument of past 
history. It was a great misfortune to have it partially de- 
stroyed. We have collected many of the bricks that have 
been carried away in times past, giving each one credit for 
those returned, and we hope to receive many more. It would 
cost but a few hundred dollars to rebuild it, and it could be 
left partially uncovered for inspection. The Pemaquid Im- 
provement Association will be glad to restore it as soon as 
they can obtain the money for that purpose. 

The following letter sent me by Capt. Loring Fossett, a 
well known sea captain of this town, will throw much light 
on this antique structure. 

"Pemaquid, Maine, Aug. 30, 1890. 
Mr. J. H. Cartland, 

Dear Sir : — Your favor of yesterday's date, at hand this 



130 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

A. M., and noted. So, to be as brief as possible, would say 
that I saw the cistern or vault, which was discovered at or 
near the ruins of the Old Fort. It was in the spring or early 
summer; it was partly filled with water, and was protected by 
a board fence of two rails high. I have a very vivid recollec- 
tion of its size and bricks, etc., and was much interested con- 
cerning it, but saw no one who could give me any satisfactory 
idea concerning its former use. 

In 1870, I made a voyage to the Mediterranean, and while 
at Leghorn, Italy, saw by the Military Barracks, a plot of 
ground containing some four or five acres, that contained 
many such underground structures, used for storing grain or 
military supplies. I noticed them by seeing the soldiers open- 
ing them, and taking the grain out to dry, which was wheat, 
barley and peas. The size was about eight feet in diameter 
and twelve feet deep; they had two feet of earth over them, 
and were opened by removing a small quantity of earth over 
the manhole,' or opening, which was round in shape, about 
fifteen inches in diameter, and a stone cover, which fitted 
closely. Some had iron covers, which indicated that their 
stone predecessors had been broken, or otherwise unfitted for 
use. The bricks were deep red, and made for the purpose to 
which they were put. I made inquiries about their construc- 
tion, and was informed that the old Military custom was to 
build those underground vaults for the purpose of storing sup- 
plies and valuables, which were always kept in secret places 
near their strongholds. 

The city of Leghorn having grown extensively in later 
years, of course has changed the topography of the surround- 
ings of those particular Military posts of which I am writing, 
from their former appearance. 

At the time I saw them, they were on a plot of ground 
about eight feet higher than the surrounding streets, walled up 
on all sides, and slightly crowning on top, enough to turn the 
water. In regard to the mortar of which they were construct- 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 131 

ed, I can give no idea, as the inside showed dingy from age 
and use. They entered them by a small rope ladder, and re- 
moved the grain with cloth bags, attached to a bow of wood, 
similar to our fish dip nets. 

After removing the grain they were swept clean, dried, 
and the grain put back and covered as before. When remov- 
ing the earth on opening them, the sod was cut clean and 
nicely removed, and when put back in its place, would take 
an expert to tell where they were. This custom, I was in- 
formed, was common in Italy in the middle ages and was very 
old. I have forgotten what they were called, but any Italian 
scholar can give you that information. I have never heard of 
any other nation using this custom. In haste, I am 

Yours respectfully, 

L. H. Fossett." 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Remains of Blacksmith Shops. 

N former days, the music of the smithy's anvil rang through 
every village in the land, from morn till dewy eve, when 
nearly all iron implements were made by blacksmiths. I have 
often heard it said that there were seven blacksmith shops 
belonging to this place. Thus far I have only located the 
remains of two to my satisfaction; one upon Fish Point, said to 
have had two forges, one having a stone anvil, which Capt. 
L. D. McLain recently informed me he had used to cut off 
bolts when at work there. Said he, When I dug out the 
cellar for that house," pointing out the one now occupied by 
Capt. Geo. R. McLain and family, " I found the remains of a 
blacksmith's shop there. I ought to know what belongs about 
them, for I have worked in them enough to learn. I found 
pieces of iron, slag, a cannon ball and a fragment of the end 
of a large cannon." 

I have found on an old map several places marked along the 
shore north of the house above alluded to, where other shops 
were located. On the southerly side of the main street, lead- 
ing from the fort to the burying-ground, a place has been 
pointed out as the former location of the Village Square," 
where several blacksmith shops once existed. The remains 
of those most essential and common places of mechanical in- 
dustry, like the carpenters' and shipbuilders' establishments, 
are now hard to trace; but all over this locality we find the 
relics of the smith's handiwork, ranging from a Nigger hoe" 
to a ship-carpenter's pod-auger. Spikes, nails, knives, shears, 
cleavers, and a hundred other implements, were then worked 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 133 

out by hand, that now are made of cast iron and by machinery. 
The excellent material used, and the remains of fine work still 
plainly to be seen on the knives, shears, and some of the best- 
preserved implements found, indicate that if these were not 
imported articles, there were expert workers of iron here long 
ago. The iron used at that time was far superior to much of 
that manufactured to-day, as is shown by its resistance to the 
elements, and did not rust so readily. 



CHAPTER XX. 



Evidence of Pipe Making. 

FOR many years past the old settlers of this place have 
often been known to speak of the " remains of pipe 
factories." 

The second thing I dug for after coming here in 1888, was 
to find the foundation of one of those factories. On the west- 
ern edge of an out-cropping ledge, between the hotel and 
outer harbor, I soon observed a mound about twenty feet in 
diameter, on which grew vegetation much more rank than 
that adjoining it. On digging a trench across it, I found the 
mound composed mostly of blue clay, like that of many of the 
natural deposits about here. A low stone wall partially divid- 
ed the mound. On the edge the clay had turned red, indicat- 
ing that it had been subjected to great heat, perhaps when the 
building above it was burned. At the edge of the mound I 
found a flat door bolt, hand-made nails, a lead bullet, etc. 
Among the clay and stones were charcoal, pipe bowls and 
stems, and on tipping over the lower stones more pipe frag- 
ments and relics, indicating that the last structure built there 
covered another of previous record, as found in other places, 
and by recorded history. I then replaced the stone and soil. 

This was no thorough or satisfactory investigation, but it is 
better to leave what remains of this and many other historic 
spots, till we have time and funds to carefully excavate, 
preserve and make record of these footprints of the early set- 
tlers; then we shall be better able to read or trace their records 
along the pathway of time. 

On the point of land just south of the Beach village, where 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 135 

the main street leading to Fish Point intersects with the 
water at high tide, ( where an ice-house used to stand till a 
few years ago, ) is now a summer residence, — a fine cottage — 
of Mr. Josiah C. Evans of Vassalboro, Maine. Before either 
of those buildings were erected, indications of a large pipe 
factory were discovered, and many people used to dig out the 
fragments, and were sometimes rewarded by finding a whole 
pipe, or many bowls with short stems. Many have been 
found on the flats by excavations at low water, indicating that 
some of the fragments were thrown over the bank. Mr. Reed 
Partridge once stated to me that when he used to go over to 
Fish Point to plough up the land, he would run the plough 
along that ridge of land on his way, and it would turn out 
great quantities of pipe fragments. 

All over this peninsula, when excavating pavings, fort walls, 
or even digging holes for posts, those fragments are found. 
Most of them are white, indicating the use of foreign clay. 
Some are red, and might have been made of the blue clay 
common here, which turns red on being subjected to great 
heat, or burned," as people generally speak of finished 
bricks. I have succeeded in obatining only a few perfect 
pipes, but the odd shapes and sizes are interesting; the odd 
figures and letters found upon them, — even the stems being 
sometimes ornamented. On the bowls of many are pictures of 
human faces, ships, etc., but none with the T. D." of 
modern make, which seems to show that they were the pro- 
ducts of many different manufacturers. So few are alike, and 
the abundance found so widely scattered over this locality, 
indicates the general use of that poisonous plant called to- 
bacco. 

A tiny little pipe found at all three of the settlements in 
this vicinity, generally in and about the cellars and pavings, 
has attracted more attention than the larger ones, because it 
was so small one could not insert the tip end of the smallest 
finger in the bowl. I have recently learned that the proper 



136 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

name for them is the Queen Mab " or Irish Fairy " pipe. 
I have seen pictures of some from a collection by a New York 
gentleman, that were finely ornamented with pictures of faces 
on the side of the bowl. Some people have suggested that 
they might have been used to smoke opium in. 

A party of Irish people once visited the Rock Cottage who 
were posted in Irish customs of their native land. While 
examining one of those little pipes, I inquired of one of the 
ladies if her people at home used such small pipes to smoke 
with. She answered with a hearty laugh, and said, ' Oh ! no, 
those are not for the people to smoke at all, they are for the 
fairies. In our country in the west of Ireland, when the 
people used to have parties and festivals, they remembered the 
fairies, and formed a circle or small rings of grass in the field 
near where the festivities were held, and at night placed those 
little pipes around the rings for them to smoke." 



CHAPTER XXI. 



Old Vessels. 

IT is well known to all people who obtain their livelihood 
about the salt water, that all the common wood of vessels, 
wharves, lobster traps, etc., is soon attacked by insects or 
worms, as they are generally called. One kind fairly honey- 
comb the plank and timbers of vessels with holes as large as 
pipe-stems, boring in all directions through the center of the 
wood, but like the cunning rats on board of ships, their in- 
stinct seems to teach them not to eat entirely through the out- 
side of the planking, but leave just a thin shell on the outer 
surface. 

No doubt many an old ship has been sunk by their means, 
for when the planks are thus eaten away, if the vessel strikes 
a floating log, timber, or ice-cake, as they are often likely to 
in the night, it would easily puncture a hole in the bottom 
that would soon cause them to fill with water and sink. 
Those larger worms are more troublesome in warm climates, 
and our larger vessels that frequent tropical ports are generally 
protected by large sheets of thin copper, firmly nailed on over 
all parts exposed to contact with the water. This process is 
called " sheathing," and is quite expensive. 

Smaller vessels which can be readily hauled on some smooth 
beach at high water, when the tide leaves are easily rid of the 
barnacles, sea grass, and other parasites which grow upon 
them and obstruct their passage through the water. The sea- 
worms are destroyed and checked in their work of destruction, 
by frequent application of paint, some of which is very effec- 
tual. 



138 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

Lobster traps are taken from the water frequently, and after 
remaining on shore a few weeks the worms die; they are then 
again ready for use, but the piling and logs of wharves, where 
they are constantly submerged, have to be replaced by new 
ones, as they are entirely eaten off in a few years. 

These pests eat along the upright piling between the low 
water mark and the soil on the bottom of the river or harbor 
where the wharf stands, so they present a queer appearance: 
at low water we can often see piling a foot or more in 
diameter at the top, and near the bottom eaten away to the 
size of a person's wrist, leaving the hard knots which they do 
not fancy so well, projecting out in all directions. Below the 
soil the worms do not penetrate the wood, and that part re- 
maining under soil and water protected from the air, will keep 
as perfect as when driven down, for centuries. I read of some 
removed at the old London Bridge, England, which were 
recently excavated, and found as perfect as when put down 
eight hundred years ago. 

I have found several specimens of wood here which show 
the work of four different species of worms. The first honey- 
combs the wood, the second bores generally lengthwise of the 
wood and incases his hole as he goes along, with a beautiful 
white shell, about as thick as a sheet of writing paper, into 
which you can run an ordinary lead pencil with ease the 
whole length, it is so straight. Others bore in towards the 
heart of the wood, having their holes very thick together, and 
as smooth and neatly done as if made by the sharp tool of an 
artisan. 

Another kind is a tiny little fellow about as long, though 
smaller round than the ordinary sea-flea, but very lively and 
he does the most mischief, eating altogether upon the outside 
of the wood. These facts will explain why we cannot be ex- 
pected to find the remains of much pertaining to ancient 
wooden structures about here on the seashore. 

I have only secured a few specimens that escaped the 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 139 

ravages of the worms: one is a fine old quadrant, found under 
water a few years ago by Mr. Joseph Gilford of this place, 
when spearing bait for lobsters. This is composed of black 
ebony and must have been too tough for their teeth, for al- 
though so old that the metal attached to it is much corroded 
and some entirely gone, there are only a few pin holes in the 
wood to show any indications of the little wood destroyer. 

Another specimen is a fragment of a ship's keel, about 
fifteen feet long, with rusty remnants of bolts, some over two 
feet long, projecting through it at short intervals, at right 
angles with the wood, indicating that it was part of the keel 
or keelson of a large vessel (possibly the Angel Gabriel before 
mentioned). What remains of this relic is completely satu- 
rated or petrified with the oxide of iron, and must have been 
what is termed the "heart" of the wood. Its hardness and 
the iron evidently saved it from destruction by the worms. 
This relic was brought to light by Mr. Pierce Munsey, by a 
lobster-warp that got wound about one end of it, and when 
pulling it up he broke it in two, leaving the remainder fast in 
the mud near the mouth of the river, where it was embedded. 

There are several piles of stone to be seen along the banks 
of the Pemaquid River, among which, and beneath, are the 
timbers and other parts of vessels, some of which I can trace 
the history, and others date too far back to be traced. Those 
stone heaps, of such stone as we find about here, we under- 
stand are composed of the ballast of vessels, whose decaying 
timbers they now partially cover. When we find these heaps 
composed of limestone a.ndjlint, we infer the vessels carrying it 
were from foreign ports. I have never been able to learn of 
any other place where flint cobblestones can be found, except 
on the shores of the English Channel, and as we found many 
vessels came here from both England and France, it is natural 
to think that the pile of flint now scattered over a space of 
about 12 x 20 feet on the flats at the north end of the penin- 
sula, and to be seen only at low tide, was used by the builders 



140 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

of the vessel that carried it as the most convenient and least 
expensive material to be had where it was constructed, as the 
custom is here to gather the cobblestones most convenient for 
ballast. 

I have one piece of timber from this locality, and that is 
marked by having a hole bored through it. No doubt that 
vessel was built during the good old Pod- Auger Times " 
which one of our citizens often sings about. The limestone 
ballast found further up the river, we trace to the West Indies. 
Another foreign mineral found on the site of the settlement 
across the river, is coquina. These mineral relics are the 
principal and ever lasting remains of former navigation that 
once made this place famous. 

Gone are the ships that brought these fragments to our shore; 
Silent are they and yet we wish that they could tell us more, 
Still is the voice, and guiding hands 
That shaped their course from foreign lands. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



The Remains of An Old Wharf. 

ALTHOUGH there must have been many wharves or land- 
ing places for vessels and boats on the shore of these 
harbors, and up the river at the other settlements, there is 
only one place I have yet examined that indicates a substan- 
tial structure of ancient origin now left. 

Beside the destructive work of the worms, as described in 
the last chapter, there are other agents of perpetual destruc- 
tion. Unusually high tides, heavy swells, and ice formation on 
both rocks and timbers, often lift them from their beds, and 
with the swift current they are carried miles away, landing on 
some other shore, or in the case of the stone used for ballast 
on the cob-work wharves, dropped to the bottom of the bay or 
sea outside, when the sun and warmer water of the ocean 
loosen the ice grip that picked them up from their former rest- 
ing place. 

A good illustration of this work of destruction by nature 
has been furnished within the last decade, on the eastern bank 
of this river, about half way from the mouth to Pemaquid 
Falls. 

A few years ago, 1890, I think, the winter was so mild that 
very little ice was secured south of New England, and the 
price ruled high. At Boyd's Pond, a tributary of the Pema- 
quid, a short distance above the Falls, there was a good supply 
of excellent quality. A company of Bristol people began 
operations to cut, stack, ship and market it at New York, 
where it sold readily at four dollars per ton. Many men with 
ox and horse teams, were engaged in hauling it from the pond 



142 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

to the shore; a wharf was built, large vessels were filled and 
dispatched from it. And what remains to be seen of all that 
industry to-day? Simply two lone piles of that wharf, so far 
upon the bank of the river, that the ice has not yet pulled 
them from their bed, or with the swift current broken them 
off, like their companions farther out in the river, where it 
could reach them. 

No stranger that happens to notice those two simple sun- 
bleached posts, can tell their history; and yet they are a fair 
example of many simple relics yet found here, all now left to 
tell the tale of past life and industry connected with them. 
If in one decade the index of a large industry is nearly obliter- 
ated hy the natural elements, what can we expect would occur 
in two or three centuries, with not alone the elements of 
nature, but the help of man, to obliterate evidence of past 
occupation. 

If eternal vigilance is the price of liberty," eternal watch- 
fulness is the price of success, in any business connected with 
the ceaseless changes of the elements about the sea, as every 
mariner well knows. 

A few years ago, a gentleman named William Upham, a 
former resident of this place, but now of Melrose, Massa- 
chusetts, came here with his family on their regular summer 
vacation tour, to visit their friends and relatives. Having 
a good opportunity one day, we determined to make an in- 
vestigation of a spot on the east side of the harbor and river, a 
little distance above the site of the shipyard and a short dis- 
tance west of the canning factory. An oval heap of rocks, 
overgrown with clinging clusters of rockweed, one lone log 
denuded of the bark, and only partly exposed, were all the 
visible indications we had to begin with. 

With crowbars, shovels and hoe, we soon exposed the frame- 
work foundation of the pier of an ancient wharf, about twenty- 
two feet square, of the type called cob work," that is, hav- 
ing the logs piled flatways, with the ends across each other, as 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 143 

the country farmers' children pile up corncobs to form their 
play-houses. The ends of these logs are fitted together by 
scarfing with an axe, and then secured by great iron bolts 
driven through them to hold them in place, as is done in 
building a log cabin. A floor of logs is made over the first 
layer of the pier, and on that is piled many tons of rocks, 
which keep the structure from floating, and hold it securely in 
place. 

By clearing away the stone and digging a few hours, we 
found eleven logs, mostly buried beneath stone and gravel, all 
lying firmly as originally placed in their beds. The lowest 
log we excavated, we were surprised to find the bark still 
sound upon it, and that it was thirty inches in diameter. 
There are no trees now growing near in this vicinity so large 
as that. The worm-eaten stumps of upright piling were found 
buried along the river side of the pier, that were evidently 
placed there for vessels to lie against while loading or dis- 
charging. 

We found by measuring, that it was eighty-five feet to the 
bank of the river. Reason teaches us that that pier must have 
once been some twelve feet higher than now, as the tide rises 
from ten to twelve feet here; and there must have been a 
bridge, with other tiers or strong supports, to connect with the 
shore. By what other means could the cargoes of vessels land- 
ing there have been loaded or discharged ? A wharf there 
would have been in just the right position to connect with the 
paved street dug up in 1855, by Mr. Varley, which lead down 
to the shore from the burying-ground. 

In close proximity are many old cellars, still to be traced by 
slight depressions in the soil; one larger than the rest, is said 
to be the locality of the former Custom House, from which 
Mr. Alexander Batchelor, who once had charge of the canning 
factory here, dug out many relics several years ago. 

By driving the crowbar deep down in the sand, we traced 
other timber between the pier and the shore, which must be 



144 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

the foundation of that part connecting it with the mainland. 
All above the tide water has of course decayed; that below, if 
there was another pile outside the one examined, must have 
long since been eaten by the wood worms, but the few remain- 
ing timbers of this one being located just between low and 
high water mark, where they can never become entirely dry 
to decay, or are continually submerged beneath the water, 
have escaped destruction thus far. The natural elements have 
had some assistance on that structure, as well as many others 
about here, to destroy instead of preserving what remains of 
interest. 

I am informed by Mr. Frank Chadwick, a long time resi- 
dent of this place, that he can remember when there were 
many more timbers of this wharf in place on that pier, and a 
man from New Harbor having a vessel ashore up in McCaffrey's 
Creek, that he wished to repair, went there, and with a yoke 
of oxen took away a part of the logs, to shore up or support 
his vessel while he repaired it. Mr. Partridge found out what 
he was doing, and stopped him before he got it all torn down. 
Said he, Mr. Charles Tibbetts, who died some twenty years 
ago, at the age of eighty years, told me that that pier stood 
there when he was a boy, and no one then knew who built it 
or when it was built." 

Mr. Austin Bradley, the modern wharf builder of this 
locality, said to me, When we began to build the wharf up 
there for the canning factory, we intended to have it just 
where that old one is, but finally built it just above, where it 
now stands, to get clear of the old one that we found in our 
way there." I secured two short pieces of the uppermost log; 
one with a large scarf cut into the side, where the mark of an 
axe blade could be plainly seen, measuring ten inches across 
it, indicating that a wide bladed axe did the work. I have 
secured some relics from each of these places described, to 
place on exhibition with the other collections here where they 
belong. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



A SHORT distance north of the old fort house, on the 
south shore of the harbor, there now stands a small 
building used as a fish-house. Near there a deep square well 
has been dug to supply water for the canning-factory: a large 
pile of rough stones that were blown out when the well was 
dug, still remain close by it. Pointing to the lowest part of 
that tract of land, which is marked on a map King's Landing, 
Uncle Jim remarked: I have ploughed up shorveh and chips 
of timbers, and suppose that was where the shipyard was locat- 
ed." 

I have never been able to find the word showel " in any 
dictionary, but ship-builders describe them as pieces of plank 
laid upon the ground to support the upright parts of their stag- 
ing and other timbers to hold up the ship's frame while being 
constructed, which would without them sink deep in the soil, 
and be unsteady. Uncle Jim had worked several years in 
shipyards, and consequently ought to be a good judge of the 
relics which he found there. 

When excavations were first made, a barrel or small hogs- 
head was found buried in the ground, the top being covered 
some two feet below the surface, indicating that the early 
settlers obtained a supply of water there a long time ago. I 
secured pipe-fragments, bolts, large hand-made spikes, tree- 
nails, and wood with holes bored through it, an odd piece of 
iron which seemed to have been made for an ornament. 

We find a record of several vessels having been built at 
Pemaquid, in the Massachusetts Archives, Vol. VII., p. 126. 

Sloop James and Thomas. Capt. James Bevan, a Quaker 



146 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

affirmed ( Quakers are allowed to affirm instead of swearing to 
a document, as they are allowed to marry themselves, and are 
exempt by law from going to war, if they do not desire to ) — 
sloop of thirty-five tons burthen, built at Pemaquid in 1695. 
Capt. John Reed of Antiqua and himself owners. Registered 
at Boston Nov. 19, 1698." It seems by the foregoing that 
there were some Quakers or Friends here. There was once 
a meeting house belonging to that sect at Bremen, and the 
old burying-ground connected with it is still walled in with 
stone. They came here soon after the Revolution, and I 
have never learned of their being persecuted here, or hung for 
their religious belief, as they were by the Puritans, on the Old 
Elm of Boston Common. Since the first settlement of this 
place to the present time, I have never learned of the perse- 
cution of any sect or creed for their religious convictions, or of 
being fined or imprisoned, as the Quakers were by the Pil- 
grims of the Plymouth Colony from 1660 to 1684. 

While visiting at Mr. James Donnell's, a descendent of one 
of the Friends formerly residing at Bremen, they told me 
many stories about the early Friends or Quakers, their meet- 
ing-house, burying-ground, etc. One of their number who 
always had been a consistent member of the society, had been 
greatly annoyed by the depredations of the British during the 
War of 1812. He came into the house one day in a great 
rage, and stripping off his swallow-tail coat, and broad- 
brimmed gray hat, flung them down in one corner of the room, 
with the exclamation " Thee lay there Quaker till we thrash 
these British scoundrels." Then he joined his neighbors and 
assisted to drive the enemy from their shores. 

The following are some of the names of the Friends con- 
nected with the Bremen meeting: Ezekiel Farrar, Wm. 
Keene, Hanna Farrar, John Donnell, James Warner, Wm. 
Hilton and wife, and Peter Hussey, were prominent members 
of the society during the latter years of its existence. Peter 
Hu'ssev was a man of considerable influence in the community, 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 147 

and was a member of the board of selectmen for several years 
(1820-1822)." 

As but few people are familiar with the marriage ceremony 
of the Friends, it may be interesting to learn about it. When 
a couple desire to join their fortunes by married life, they 
meet at the public place of worship of the society, and after 
the usual exercises of the society, they stand facing the 
audience, and joining hands, make the following vows to each 
other: I, Samuel Jones take this my friend Mary Stinson, 
to be my lawful wife, promising to be to her a faithful and 
affectionate husband until death shall separate us." The lady 
then performs her part. I, Mary Stinson take this my 

friend Samuel Jones, to be my lawful husband, promising to 
be to him a faithful and affectionate wife, until death shall 
separate us." They then register their names on the book of 
the society, with that of their best man and brides-maid as 
witnesses, with all the people assembled, and the ceremony is 
usually closed with a prayer by the minister. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



The Old Burying-Ground. 
Smile on, fair river, flowing to the sea, 
And chant, O Sea, your anthem evermore, 
Seasons shall roll, and human life shall be 
Golden with hope as life hath been before; 
The sacred records of the dead remain, 
And faithful history calls them from the past; 
Their feet shall tread with ours the distant plain, 
Whose shining space outspreads sublime and vast. 

The tumult of the nations rises still, 
The shout of war, the grateful hymn of peace; 
The torch of science gleams from hill to hill, 
While glowing stores in realms of art increase; 
And some more prosperous city yet may rise 
O'er ancient Jamestown with its field of graves, 
And passing ships may hail with glad surprise 
Its white towers gleaming o'er the glittering waves. 

M. W. Hackelton. 

SIX granite and marble monuments are the most con- 
spicuous objects now visible inside the rough stone wall 
enclosure of to-day. When Mr. Partridge came here, much of 
the upper end of the field had become a public burial-ground, 
and people were brought here from the Point, New Harbor, 
Long Cove and other places, for burial. He said, I thought 
they would bury my field all over, so I had to fence in that 
place to prevent it." 

First a wooden rail and slat fence was erected, supported by 
iron posts set into large stones. When that decayed about 
1875,- an organization was formed of people from different 
parts of the town, who had friends and relatives buried there, 




Part of the Ancient Burying Ground in the Fort Field 




Gravestone of Morgan McCaffery and others, Date of 1768. The Oldest 

Found Here is 1695. The Oldest at Plymouth, 1684. People did not 

Bring Gravestones with them when they came to this Country 



^ 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 149 

and they discussed the subject of building a substantial fence 
about the yard. Some thought iron, with stone posts the best, 
and others wanted a plain wall of natural stone. The latter 
prevailed, and the wall we see to-day is the result of that 
decision, having an iron turn-stile and double iron gates for 
access to the yai'd from the west end. 

William Hackelton, Esq., once a prominent citizen here, a 
carpenter and builder, Sabbath-school teacher and justice of 
the peace, whose monument stands on the highest point of 
land in the yard, was one of the leading men in this move- 
ment, and assisted in constructing the wall. Capt. Luther 
Davis was chosen sexton. 

The most of these people have joined the innumerable 
caravan, that moves to the pale realms of shade," and the old 
yard had been neglected for several years, until the Pemaquid 
Improvement Association appointed Mr. Henry Partridge and 
Mr. George N. Lewis to cut the grass and look after it. A 
notice has been put up to stop vandals from destroying or dis- 
figuring the tablets, as some have done in times past. 

I think vandals none too harsh a word to use, for those 
people who have no more respect for themselves, the dead, or 
their living friends, than to mar, deface, or destroy, the tablets 
of those who lie helpless beneath them. They are robbers 
too, when they take away or deface, that which others have as 
good right to see here, or wherever they belong, as themselves. 
How much better and more reasonable to obtain a picture, as 
cheap as they are now, and leave choice and sacred relics just 
as they are found; and just where they belong. 

The monuments and other light colored tablets, mark the 
resting places of modern citizens. The dark slate, which I 
have been informed came from Wales, points out those of 
earlier date. They are similar to those seen about the Old 
King's Chapel at Boston, and many other settlements of the 
early colonists all along the New England shores. 

Rude field stones, or simple mounds only, mark the resting 



150 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

place of those long since forgotten, or who perhaps were too 
poor to obtain them from across the ocean, before they were 
made here, or they might have shared in the belief of many 
others of their time, thinking it was wrong to have anything 
put up to mark their final resting place. When they got so 
they would sanction a headstone, another period of time 
elapsed before they would sanction dates and names. 

As an illustration, we have a natural stone, about three feet 
long and about one wide in the widest part, that used to stand 
in the field, about one-hundred feet northwest of the entrance 
to the present yard. The inscription upon it reads as follows: 
" HM. 1695." H. M. are said to be the initials for Sergeant 
Hugh March, The earliest at Plymouth is 1684. 

From Johnson's history we learn that on September 9th 
(1695), as a number of men were rowing a gondola around a 
high rocky point above the barbacan,' at the entrance of the 
harbor, they were fired upon by some Indians, and four killed 
and six wounded. The killed were Serg. Hugh March, Ed. 
Sargeant, John Linkhorn, and Thos. Johnson." 

In 1888, I found this stone lying against the inside of the 
western wall of the yard, minus a good sized fragment from 
the upper corner, that robs it of half the figures of the date, 
the earliest cut on any stone found here. Fortunately a record 
of the inscription was secured before it was defaced. I got 
permission of the owners of the place, to remove the stone to a 
place of safety, where any one interested can see it. 

Another tablet used to stand in the field near the same 
locality as the one above mentioned. During the winter of 
1896, I met Miss Margaret Martin and her brother, then 
residing on Pemaquid Point; they both had retentive memories 
and told me many tales of the old settlers. In answer to my 
question about the old tablet, Miss Martin said, I remember 
there used to be a grave there marked with a thick plank at 
the head, with the name of a lady and other inscriptions on it. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 151 

The letters were carved out of the wood, and lead run in to fill 
the spaces." 

Parson Alexander McLain was sent for, to translate the in- 
scription on it, and learned that it was the wife of a French 
Admiral, that died on board his ship in this locality, and he 
had her remains brought up there in a boat and buried. They 
said the name was Abishable or Abashabee Hunt. Capt. 
Robert Martin, her brother, said, My father and Jim Curtis 
went up to the beach clamming, and Jim wanted some lead to 
run up into shot, to shoot birds with, and he pried out the 
lead with his jack-knife. He had a bran " new one, and he 
broke the blade off. There was a round piece of lead as big 
as a saucer, nailed on to the headboard, with the likeness of a 
woman on it." 

Mr. Partridge informed me that soon after he came here, a 
stranger called on him and requested permission to dig open 
that grave, but he would not give his consent ; but the man 
got up in the night and dug up the remains, and then told 
Mr. Partridge that he had found them to be those of a woman, 
as he could tell by the hair and bones. By his mysterious 
actions, Mr. Partridge thought he had some other object in 
view beside that of satisfying his curiosity as to the sex of the 
person buried there. 

Soon after I came here, Mr. Samuel Martin, a brother of 
Margaret and Capt. Robert, rode up to the Jamestown, and as 
he sat in the wagon, I inquired if he could remember of seeing 
any graves of people that were buried in the field, between 
the southern wall and the shore of the creek, pointing to the 
locality which we could plainly see. Yes," said he, I 
remember when Capt. N. owned this place ; he did not care 
for God, man, or the d — 1, and he made his men plough right 
over them graves, and one of the oxen broke through into one 
that caved in and they had hard work to get him out again." 

Some four years ago, as I stood on the Old Fort Rock with 
a small company of people, after showing the different points 



152 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

of historic interest in plain view from that location, the an- 
tiquity of the old burying-ground was referred to. I remarked 
that I had never known a grave to be dug there without find- 
ing the remains of those previously buried. One of the 
company, Mr. Robert Poland, then remarked, " Yes, I used to 
dig graves there forty-eight years ago, and I have taken out 
the skull and other bones of a dozen people while digging one 
grave." 

After some Indian raid and massacre of the settlement, a 
large number might have been buried in one grave ; on no 
other occasion would they be likely to be buried in that 
manner. 

Mr. Partridge told me the following story: " Soon after that 
wall was built, a family from the Point having an interest 
with the new organization for its care and protection, decided 
to remove some of the remains of their friends, then buried 
there, to this yard. It was done while I was gone away to 
camp-meeting." (it was his custom to take his wife and 
attend camp-meeting every year, and they would sometimes 
be away two weeks visiting their friends and relatives in the 
country.) ' When I returned I found they had buried three 
of their people there, and dug up the remains of four others and 
left their bones on the surface of the ground." 

From the accounts I have heard of remains of human beings 
found in and about this yard and the old forts on Fish Point, 
and other places in this vicinity, it seems Mrs. Hackelton was 
right, when in her beautiful poem she refers to Ancient 
Jamestown with its field of Graves." 

Most of the old slate stones remaining in the yard to-day, 
have queer inscriptions to ornament the face of the headstones, 
representing weeping willows, skulls, and cross-bones. Some 
of the headstones bear queer epitaphs. The headstone of 
Morgan McCaffrey, previously spoken of in the chapter on 

old . cellars," has the following quaint inscription: In 




Tablet to Commemorate the First Deed executed in 
America, Conveying a large portion of Pemaquid to 
John Brown, by the Indian Sagamore Samoset, in 1625 




Morgan Mc'Caffery's Gravestone in the old 
Burying Ground 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 153 

memory of Mr. Morgan McCaffrey, who died July 20th, 1768, 
aged 35 years. 

Behold my dad is gone, 

And leaves me here to mourn; 

But hope in Christ I have, 

That he and I will save." 

Capt. Martin informed me that this verse was composed by 
Mr. McCaffrey's daughter Jennie, who was afflicted, not only 
by the loss of her father, but her brother also was drowned in 
a well between their house and the head of the creek. 

Another very large slate stone near the east end of the yard, 
has upon it the following inscription : In memor3 r of Mr. 
Thomas Holden, who died May 19th, 1784, aged 75 years 
Likewise Mrs. Esther, his wife, died Feb. 6th, 1785, aged 64 
years. 

"Behold we are confined in dust, 
And here we must remain, 
Till Jesus who redeemed us 
Bids us arise again." 

Among the first slate stones that we notice near the west 
entrance to the old yard, are those of several members of the 
Rogers family. The most modern ones bear the following in- 
scriptions : 

"Miss Elizabeth Rogers died in Bristol Jan. 20th, 1830, 
aged 87." 

" Miss Mary Rogers died Sept. 27th, 1847, aged 91." 

The above named maiden ladies were two sisters, called by 
the old settlers " Betty " and " Polly " Rogers. They owned 
several lots of land located just north of the old fort house. 
Capt. John Nichols had obtained by purchase, all the other 
lots of which the old fort field was composed, but these ladies 
would never sell theirs to him during their lifetime, on 
account of an old grudge between the two families. I have 
been informed that this ill-feeling was brought about by com- 
petition between two officers connected with the old Fort. At 



254 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

one time the Colonial. Government having an important dis- 
patch to send through the wilderness to Canada, entrusted one 
copy with each officer, whose names were Nichols and Rogers, 
offering as a prize to the one who should first succeed in 
delivering his dispatch at its destination, the command of this 
fort at Pemaquid. Nichols got the advantage of his com- 
panion by employing an expert Indian guide, and consequent- 
ly gained the prize. This was a severe disappointment to 
young Rogers, who was entitled by the natural order of promo- 
tion, to be the commander of the fort. This circumstance 
caused ill-feeling between the two families during the re- 
mainder of their lives. 

There is history enough connected with this old burial- 
ground to fill a good sized volume, and all the monuments 
and tablets connected with it ought to be photographed and 
their inscriptions preserved. 

I took photographs of many of the old tablets several years 
ago, and with the assistance of Miss Carrie Dodge, we copied 
the inscriptions on them and had them furnished to the New 
England Historical Society. 



CHAPTER XXV. 



Visits of the Maine Historical Society in 1869 and 1871, 

'ROM the reports of the Field Days of the Maine His- 
torical Society, published at the time, I obtain the 
following account of the exercises : — 

After an address of welcome by the Hon. E. W. Farley, in 
which he called attention to the proposed monument to be 
erected here, he concluded by saying : Maine has not had 
justice done to her historic importance." 

Mr. Farley was followed by Hon. E. E. Bourne, president 
of the Society, who said that evidence is rapidly accumulating, 
that here the first action of civilization in New England com- 
menced — an important fact. He thought the researches 
now going on in the great libraries of Europe, would soon re- 
sult in a mass of testimony with which we shall be able in a 
few years to satisfy everybody that this was so. 

He alluded to the controversy with Massachusetts, as to 
priority of settlement, and read several extracts from undoubt- 
ed authorities in regard to Pemaquid. One from Thornton (of 
Massachusetts) he thought worthy to be inscribed on the pro- 
posed monument : This was the initial of New England 
colonization." Judge Bourne excused himself from speaking 
at length, as he said he was suffering from a severe cold and 
deemed it imprudent to continue. 

J. H. Hackelton, Esq., of Bristol, was then introduced. He 
spoke of the incredulity with which many people regard the 
evidences of the existence of an ancient city with paved streets 
at Pemaquid, and said he did not propose to quote history, but 
would produce a few evidences of what Pemaquid has to say 



156 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

for itself. Mr. Hackelton then proceeded to read extracts 
from several affidavits, showing what the present inhabitants 
know about the remains. 

Mr. Robbins testified that in 1840-41 a paved street (a sec- 
tion of which was unearthed to-day,) extended from the shore 
to the old cemetery. The former owners removed all traces 
possible, owing to the value of the tillage land. He described 
the street as about fifteen feet wide. He had filled many walled 
cellars. The walls of Fort Wm. Henry were then exposed 
from three to five feet above the soil. 

Henry Varley testified that in 1835 he was employed by 
Capt. John Nichols, and was engaged with other men more 
than one week in digging up the pavement of one street, and 
filled up twelve walled cellars on the west street, near the 
bank of the river. 

Waterman Hatch testified that in 1825 there was a paved 
street running from the shore to the cemetery, confirming the 
statement of Mr. Varley, and stated that he saw twenty cellars 
on the street which was north of Mr. Partridge's house and ex- 
tended to the river ; also saw a large lot of human bones, dug 
up near the wall of the Fort, and dug into what appeared to 
be the remains of a pipe factory. 

John Stinson was employed by Capt. Nichols in 1835, to fill 
cellars ; counted three hundred ; confirmed the statements of 
Messrs. Varley and Robbins. 

Mr. Hackelton stated that this evidence had been taken at 
different times and places, and most of it sworn to before him 
as justice. That there were also cellars at Fish Point, where 
the porgy oil factory is now, unfortunately, situated. [The 
porgy oil business no longer flourishes here, because the fish do 
not visit these shores, as formerly. A summer hotel is now 
kept here, called the Waneta, by Mrs. Roxy Varley. — Ed.] 
There was also a settlement at Long Cove and New Harbor. 
John Brown resided at New Harbor, who is referred to in the 
first deed. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 157 

A Mr. Thompson of New Harbor testified that seventeen 
cellars were found there under a heavy growth of wood, near 
the shore, and a fort 51x52 feet, with walls five feet thick, on 
which large oaks were growing forty-seven years ago. 

The speaker then gave some statements in regard to a mill- 
stone and other relics found in the vicinity, one of which was 
evidently a leaden tag, such as was formerly used on imported 
broadcloth, and bore the date of 1610. 

The next speaker was Charles H. Tuttle, Esq., of Boston, 
who commenced by alluding to the wreck of the ship Angel 
Gabriel" in Pemaquid Harbor, in 1635. An ancestor of his, 
John Tuttle, was one of the passengers in this ship, and saved 
from the wreck the Geneva Bible, which was exhibited to the 
society at Portsmouth last year. He said he had been sur- 
prised to-day at what he had seen. He had heard of paved 
streets at Pemaquid, as perfect as any in Boston — a fact that 
many Massachusetts men find it hard to believe — but to-day 
he had seen and walked upon the pavement and was now con- 
vinced. The present Governor of Maine, William T. Haines, 
is a descendant of Deacon Haines, who was also wrecked at 
that time. 

Charles Dean, Esq., Secretary of the Massachusetts Histori- 
cal Society, spoke enthusiastically of the magnificent bays and 
headlands of this coast , and of the beautiful scenery in the vi- 
cinity. Alluding to the mysteries of the ancient settlement, 
he said that one reason we have no account of it is that the 
chain of tradition was broken by the entire depopulation of the 
place, and more than twenty years elapsed before it was re- 
settled. Maine, he said, was the oldest spot on the earth, for 
here were Laurentian hills, and here the green fields first ap- 
peared above the waste of waters. Maine, therefore, can claim 
great antiquity. 

Prof. John Johnston, of Middletown, Connecticut, then ad- 
dressed the meeting and gave many interesting items in rela- 



158 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

tion to the place. Prof. Johnston was then about to publish a 
history of Pemaquid. 

The exercises at the stand here terminated, and the assem- 
bly, at about 4 P. M., adjourned to the dinner tent, where a 
bountiful collation had been prepared. 

Owing to the great disappointment of the people at the non- 
arrival of so many persons by the barge, it was decided to con- 
tinue the exercises another day, and word was accordingly sent 
to the surrounding towns to that effect. 

The Second Day. 

The weather proved fine on Friday, and at an early hour the 
people began to assemble. The Damariscotta Cornet Band 
was on hand and added to the pleasure of the occasion by dis- 
coursing fine music. 

Long Cove sent a delegation of singing maidens in a gaily 
decorated rustic car, and heavily loaded boats and teams came 
from all the country around. 

At 11 A. M. the assembly was called to order by the chair- 
man, and the proceedings were opened with prayer by Rev. 
Wm. A. Drew of Augusta. 

Mr. Blaney then made some remarks concerning the monu- 
ment, and announced that a site for it had been donated by 
Mr. Partridge, the owner of the land on Avhich they were as- 
sembled. He also said that the books were now opened and 
that one dollar would make any one a member of the Associa- 
tion. 

Judge Bourne then resumed his remarks and repeated his 
quotation from Thornton, that to Pemaquid we must look for 
the initiation of civilization into New England," which he 
deemed of the utmost importance, coming as it did from a 
Massachusetts man. He also quoted from Increase Mather 
and others. Mr. Bourne said we don't set up anything against 
the Pilgrims, and paid an eloquent tribute to those brave men 
who landed on Plymouth Rock, in the course of which he said 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 159 

that there is no evidence that the Pilgrims ever persecuted 
any one. He mentioned as a curious fact that in the Massa- 
chusetts almanacs, from 1770 to 1820, no mention is made of 
the landing of the Pilgrims ! So he thought nothing could be 
said about our commencing the observance of our anniversaries 
at so late a date. 

The speaker endeavored to get up a good-natured discussion 
on some of these historical questions with Mr. Dean of Bos- 
ton, but in reply Mr. Dean said he was a native of Maine, and 
as this was not " Popham Day " he didn't propose to enter 
into any discussion. He then gave some facts in relation to 
the early voyages, and stated that Pemaquid was first men- 
tioned by name in a paper called "A Description of Mavoo- 
shen," in 1602-3-4, up to 1609, which calls the river Pema- 
quid, although not correct in its location. Strachey's narrative 
speaks of the " little river Pemaquid." Capt. Smith landed 
at Monhegan in 1614 ; mentions a ship of Sir Francis Popham 
lying at Pemaquid, which he puts down as St. John's town." 
The bay is now known as John's bay. 

Mr. C. H. Tuttle then made some remarks, in which he said 
that we had here relics of an archaeology not found in Massa- 
chusetts. There they had records of all the places from set- 
tlement ; here we had ruins of a people whose very existence 
was forgotten. We found here spoons made in the reign of 
Elizabeth, and pipes dating from 1600. 

Mr. Tuttle was interrupted in the very commencement of 
his remarks by the call to dinner, much to the regret of the 
audience, who manifested unusual interest in his address, and 
expected it to be resumed after dinner, but for some reason 
it was not. 

Dinner was served in the big tent, and after the wants of 
the inner man were attended to, the crowd again assembled 
at the stand. 

President Wood, late of Bowdoin College, was introduced 
and spoke at some length. In the course of his remarks he 



WO TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

mentioned that he had just overheard a young lady remark of 
the members of the Historical Society present : If these are 
fossils they are the spryest fossils I ever saw !" He paid a 
well merited tribute to the hospitality of the people of Bristol, 
and expressed his pleasure at finding so much interest in his- 
torical matters manifested by them. 

The chairman here introduced to the audience Mrs. Foster 
of Rockport, a descendant of Thos. Gyles of Pemaquid, whose 
house was burned and himself and a part of his family mur- 
dered by the Indians in 1689. 

A poem entitled A Tale of the Winding River," was then 
read by its author, Mrs. M. W. Hackelton of Bristol. It was 
a fine production, and was beautifully and impressively deliv- 
ered by its fair author, who was loudly applauded. 

At 2 P. M. the meeting was adjourned to the tent and there 
continued by remarks from Messrs. Farley, Hackelton, Drew, 
Blaney, and others, after which the Committee of the Society 
visited the Lewis farm on the opposite side of the river, and 
examined the remains of fortifications, cellars, tan-pits, etc., 
at that place — the remains of a settlement of which there is no 
history or tradition. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 



Fortifications. 

JROBABLY no other place in the United States has equal 
distinction with the Old Fort Rock of Pemaquid, in hav- 
ing four forts built and destroyed before the Union of States 
was formed. Here, too we claim the fierce buzz of the deadly 
round bomb-shells first startled the English colonists; as frag- 
ments of the shells have been gathered about here for many 
years. None of the battles fought here were very sanguinary 
or desperate in comparison with those of modern warfare. The 
caliber of the guns was small; the shot, shell, and fragments 
of guns found here recently are of rude make. About one mile 
seems to be the distance the shot could be fired by the French 
guns. It must be remembered that fighting between ships 
and stone fortifications may be said to have been in its infancy 
and both parties in the case of attack on the first stone fort 
here exhibited their lack of experience in this kind of warfare. 
The French, awed by the formidable appearance of Fort Wil- 
liam Henry, sailed away without firing a shot. Then, when 
three frigates put in an appearance on one side and hundreds 
of Indians on the other, and the murderous shells dropped 
down among them from the high hills beyond the river, the 
English were terrified by threats of horrid treatment by the 
Indians, and surrendered, after one day of resistance, a fort 
which the French commander afterwards acknowledged he 
doubted if he could have captured if the English had held out 
against him. 

But for many years these forts served well their purpose as a 
safe protection from the Indians after they began to quarrel 



162 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

with the white man. They were a haven of refuge for the 
people for many miles around. Wherever you may travel 
about this old town of Bristol you can hear stories of scenes 
enacted about the forts at Pemaquid handed down by tradition 
by the older people, and by others back in the country for 
many miles. 

The First Fort Called Pemaquid, or Shurt's Fort 

Like the settlements here at different periods, the forts have 
been distinguished by different names each time they were 
built anew. The first was called Pemaquid or perhaps Shurt's 
Fort. No doubt this was a simple block-house, and might 
have been used for a public storehouse too. One authority 
gives 1624 as the date of its construction, and informs us that 
it stood until King Philip's War in 1676. 

There could have been no necessity for protection from the 
natives, at least the noble tribe of Wawenocks, for we have 
shown that they were friendly to the whites. Prof. Johnston 
writes, It seems to have been intended rather for a protec- 
tion against renegades and pirates that were beginning to 
infest the coast. " ' One of those men was Mr. Isaac 
Allerton, a passenger on the Mayflower, who was discarded by 
the Pilgrims. He chartered a ship in England, loaded her 
heavily, and set forth again with a most wicked and drunken 
crew. He set up a company of base fellows and made them 
traders to run into every hole and into the river Kennebec 
in a manner altogether contrary to the established rules of 
trade. Among the noted characters of that period who sought 
illegal trade with the natives, was the pirate Dixie Bull. 
One of the vessels captured by him was commanded by Capt. 
Anthony Dix, who came to Plymouth in 1623." 

Coming to Pemaquid in 1632, he seems not to have met 
much resistance in his attack on the fort, and soon plundered 
it and many of the neighboring planters. Ball lost one of his 
principal men by a shot fired by one of Shurt's men, as he 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 163 

was about weighing anchor in haste to escape the fury of the 
gathering people now aroused to vengeance. 

Information of Bull's plunderings here was transmitted to 
Gov. Winthrop at Boston, and four small vessels with forty 
men were sent here and others joined in the pursuit, but the 
pirates had gone east and escaped. Little more is known of 
Dixie Bull, but it is said he was finally taken to England, 
where he suffered the just reward of his villainous deeds. 



CHAPTER XXVII 



Fort Charles 

FORT Charles, which has been described in a previous 
chapter, page 70, was the second fort erected here. 
It was built in 1677 under the direction of Sir Edmond 
Andros when colonial governor of New York, and this terri- 
tory at that time was called Cornwall. Like the first it was 
also a wooden fort, two stories high, with a stockade, or high 
fence, to keep the Indians away from it. At the time this 
fort was destroyed, August, 1689, the English and French 
were not engaged in open warfare, but Castine was smart- 
ing under the insult of Sir Edmond Andros in the year 
previous when he pillaged his home at Castine and so was 
ready to urge and assist the Indians in their work of destruc- 
tion. Very carefully laid plans were matured for the attack. 
The destruction of this fort was evidently planned at Castine 
by Baron De Castine and M. Thury, the Jesuit priest. 

From Professor Johnston's History of Bristol, I gather 
some of the statements in the following narrative of the 
affair. The number of Indians who engaged in the expedi- 
tion is supposed to have been over one hundred. To secure 
the aid of the God of battles, they all confessed and partook 
of the sacrament; made arrangements with the priest for their 
wives and children to continue the same devotions during the 
whole time they should be absent fighting against the here- 
tics, as they called the English, — even during the time usual- 
ly allowed for sleep, — by establishing a perpetual rosary in 
their chapel. 

Three canoes were sent on ahead, to see that the way was 




Sir Edmund Andros 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 165 

clear, and the plan was for them to wait two leagues from the 
fort. It seems that Round Pond must have been their place 
of meeting. After landing they marched in a body with 
great caution toward the settlement. Charlevoix tells that on 
their way they took three prisoners from whom they learned 
that there were about one hundred men in the fort and vil- 
lage, scattered about their work, unconscious of danger." 

Mather's account says, " On August 2d, one Starkey 
going early in the morning from the fort at Pemaquid into 
New Harbor, fell into the hands of the Indians who, to obtain 
his own liberty informed them that the fort had at that in- 
stant but few men in it, and that one Mr. Giles with fourteen 
men, was gone up to his farm, and the rest scattered abroad 
about their occasions. The Indians hereupon divided their 
little army; part going up to the Falls, killed Mr. Giles and 
others; part upon the advantage of the tide, took the rest be- 
fore they could recover the fort." 

No attack by the Indians upon a civilized settlement was 
ever better planned than this, or more completely carried out. 
The party sent to the fort, when the attack began, took their 
position between the fort and the village so as to prevent any 
communication between them, and to cut off the men as they 
came in from the fields; while the party sent to the falls took 
care to intercept any that might attempt to escape in the 
direction of the fort. Besides this, the attack seems to have 
been made at the time of low water, when the boats in which 
the men had gone up from the fort could not be made avail- 
able. All the arrangements had been made with such pro- 
found secrecy that the surprise of the English was complete; 
until the moment the attack began, the English had no suspi- 
cion of their presence. The fight began by a furious rush of 
the Indians upon the fort and village; and the report of their 
guns seems to have been the signal for the other parties at a 
distance to perform the parts assigned them. A very few of 
the inhabitants were so fortunate as to get within the fort; 



166 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUIDj 

and, by the terms of capitulation the next day, were allowed 
to depart with the soldiers to Boston, but nearly all were 
either killed or taken captive. 

According to Charlevoix, immediately after the attack 
began, the commander of the fort opened fire upon the 
besiegers with his heavy cannon, but it had no effect to pre- 
vent the Indians from taking possession of ten or twelve stone 
houses, which were situated on a street leading from the vil- 
lage to the fort. They also took shelter behind a large rock, 
which stood near the fort on the side towards the sea, and 
in the cellar of a house near by, from both of which places 
they kept up such a fire of musketry upon the fort, that no 
one could show his head above the ramparts. This was con- 
tinued from the time the fight began, about noon, until night; 
and when it ceased, on account of the darkness they sum- 
moned the commander to surrender the fort into their hands, 
and received as a reply from some one within that he was 
greatly fatigued, and must have some sleep." 

During the night a close watch was kept to prevent any 
one from going in or out of the fort, and at day dawn, the 
firing on both sides was renewed, but in a little time the fire 
from the fort ceased and the commander proposed to capitu- 
late it. Terms being agreed upon, the commander soon came 
out, at the head of fourteen men, these being all that re- 
mained of the garrison. With them came some women and 
children, all with packs upon their backs. 

The terms of surrender included the men of the garrison, 
and the few people of the village who had been so fortunate 
as to get into the fort, with three English captives who had 
previously escaped from the Indians, but were now in the fort. 
They were also allowed to take of their effects whatever they 
could carry in their hands, and to depart in a sloop taken by 
the Indians the day before, from Capt. Padeshall, who was 
killed as he was landing from his boat. Two others, Capt. 
Skinner and Farnham, were, in like manner, shot down as 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 167 

they were stepping on shore from a boat, returning from 
one of the islands. 

In accordance with the terms of capitulation, Weems and 
his men, with a few others who were with him in the fort, 
were permitted to depart for Boston ; but all the people of the 
place, men women and children, who were not in the fort, and 
had not been killed in the fight, were compelled to leave with 
the Indians for the Penobscot river, where little was expected 
but hardship and suffering, scarcely less to be dreaded than 
death itself. They made the passage, some in birch canoes, 
and the rest in two captured sloops. The whole number of 
captives thus taken was about fifty ; but how many were killed 
we have no means of knowing. 

Charlevoix expressly affirms, that after the surrender the 
Indians allowed those within the fort to depart without being 
molested, and contented themselves by saying that if they 
( the English ) were wise they would not return again to the 
place, as the Abenaquis had had too much experience of their 
perfidy to allow them to remain in peace ; that they were 
masters of the country, and would never suffer to live there a 
people so inquiet as they, and who gave them ( the Indians) 
so much trouble in the exercise of their religion. In one of 
the cellars he says they found a hogshead of brandy ; but they 
carried their heroic self-denial so far that they destroyed it 
without even tasting it ! 

That Weems acted hastily in surrendering the fort as he 
did, without further effort in self-defense, is very plain ; but 
we have reason to believe the result would have been no less 
disastrous if the struggle had been prolonged. How many of 
his men were killed during the fight, we may not certainly 
know ; but he had with him at the beginning just thirty, and 
according to Charlevoix, there were only fourteen left besides 
himself at the time of the surrender. The number of soldiers 
killed therefore was sixteen, but the same author says the 
English allowed only a loss of seven. He, however, intimates 



168 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 



that the new-made graves inside the walls showed a greater 
number of burials. Weems himself was badly burned in the 
face by an accidental explosion of some gunpowder. 

According to Charlevoix, some of the Indians, after 
thoroughly destroying everything about the fort and settle- 
ment at Pemaquid, desired to proceed further, and drive the 
English from an island three or four leagues distant, but the 
greater part were opposed to it. The island referred to, very 
probably was either Monhegan, or one of the Damariscove 
group, where there may have been a few settlers, or fisher- 
men's huts, of which no record has been preserved. 

A List of ye men that was under ye Command of Lieut. 
James Wemmes when ye Enemy did attack that Garrison at 
Pemaquid in August, 1689." 



Rodger Sparkes gunr, 
Paul Mijikam Surgt, 
Jones Marroday Copl, 
Robert Smith Drume 1 
Rutland Clay, 
John Pershon, 
William Gullington, 
Brugan Org, 
Richard Dicurows, 
Thomas Mapleton, 
Rich d Clifford, 
John Boirnes, 
Thomas Barber, 
Henry Walton, 
Rob 1 Jackson, 



William Jones, 
Mat Taylor 
Fred ck Burnet, 
Rob 1 Baxter, 
John Bandies, 
Thomas Shaffs, 
John Allen, 
Rodger Heydon, 
Joseph Mason, 
John Herdin, 
Benj. Stanton, 
Rob* Lawrence, 
Thomas Baker, 
Orrel James, 



Ralph Praston. 

Lieutenant Weems' Accompt of his Pay and Disburse- 
ments at the Garrison of Pemaquid, From the 18th day of 
April, 1689 unto the 13th day of August Ensueing being 117 
days. . 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 169 

To the Lieut, pay and his servants a 4 ) 

' \ £27— 6 

pence pr Diem ) 

To ye Gunners pay a 18 do pr day 8 — 15 — 6 

To ye Sergeants pay a 18 do pr Diem 8 — 15 — 6 

To ye Corporals pay a 12 do pr day 5 — 17 

To ye Drums pay a 12 do pr day 5 — 17 

To the pay of 30 Private men at 

6 do pr Diem 87 — 15 
To Cash Paid for fyre and Candles 7 — 
To Boat hyre in Several Times to give In- 
telligence to Boston of ye Condi- J 6 — 
tion of the Garrison 



£157— 6 
James Weems." 
The following Relation of Grace Higiman," which was 
copied from the Mass. Archives, 8 V., 36 Page, may be of 
interest to the reader : — 

Grace Higiman saith That on the second day of August, 
1689, the day when Pemaquid was assaulted and taken by ye 
Indians, I was there taken Prisoner and carried away by them, 
one Eken, a Canadian Indian, pretending to have a right in 
me, and to be my master. I apprehend that there were be- 
tween two and three hundred Indians at that assault ( and no 
French ) who continued there for two days, and then carried 
away myselfe and other Captives ( about fifty in number ) unto 
the Fort at Penobscot. I continued there about three years, 
removing from place to place as the Indians occasionally went, 
and was very hardly treated by them, both in respects of 
Provisions and clothing, having nothing but a torn blanket to 
cover me during the winter seasons, and oftentimes cruelly 
beaten. After I had been with the Indians three years, they 
carried me to Quebeck, and sold me for forty crowns unto the 
French there, who treated me well, gave me my liberty, and I 
had the King's allowance of Provisions, as also a Room pro- 



170 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

vided for me, and liberty to work for myselfe. I continued 
there two years and a halfe, During which time of my abode 
there, several of the Eastern Indians came, viz., Bomaseen, 
Moxis his son, and Madockawando's son and divers others, and 
brought in English Prisoners and Scalps, and received as the 
French told me, for each scalp ( being paid by the Intendent ) 
Twenty French Crowns, according to a Declaration which the 
Governor there had emitted for their encouragement, and the 
Captives they sold for as much as they could agree with the 
purchasers. The Indians also had a Reward offered them for 
bringing Intelligence from time to time. Soon after the Sub- 
mission made by the Indians at Pemaquid in 1693, Bomaseen 
came to Quebeck and brought a paper containing the Sub- 
stance of the articles of submission, which he showed unto me, 
and told me that the Governour of Canada said to him, That 
he should not have made Peace with the English and that he 
seemed to be much displeased for their having done so, how- 
ever said they might carry it friendly to the English, till they 
should meet with a convenient opportunity to do mischief." 

French officials in Canada, in the year 1692, claimed that in 
the various Indian fights of the preceding years, they had de- 
stroyed for the New Englanders besides Pemaquid, no less 
than sixteen pallisaded forts and settlements, in which were 
twenty cannon and about two hundred men. 

Thomas Gyles, above referred to, was one of three brothers 
who emigrated to this country from Kent, England, probably 
in 1668 ; the names of the others being James and John. 
Thomas was one of the chief men of the place, and appears to 
have carried on a considerable business. On the morning of 
that memorable day when the fort was captured, with his 
three eldest sons, Thomas, James and John, and several hired 
men, he went up to the falls, to work in a field he had there, 
some at haying, and some at gathering grain. They labored 
until noon, and took their dinner together at the farmhouse, 
without suspicion of danger. Having finished their dinner, 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 171 

the men went to their work ; but Mr. Gyles and two of his 
sons, remained at the house, when suddenly firing was heard 
from the direction of the fort. Mr. Gyles was disposed to in- 
terpret the occurence favorably, and so remarked to his sons ; 
but their conversation was cut short by a volley of bullets from 
a party of Indians who had been hitherto concealed, awaiting 
the signal from the fort to begin their bloody work ! The 
party of Indians numbered some thirty or forty, who now 
rising from their ambush, finished their work in a few minutes, 
killing or capturing all except Thomas Gyles, the oldest son, 
then about nineteen. Where the latter was when the attack 
began, we do not know, but he was so fortunate as to make 
his escape unhurt from the field, and passing down on the 
west side to Pemaquid harbor, was taken on board a fishing 
schooner which was just ready to sail. 

Thomas Gyles, the father, was mortally wounded by the 
first volley from the Indians, and afterwards despatched with 
a hatchet. His son John who was taken captive, says that 
when the attack was made, My brother ran one way and I 
another, and looking over my shoulder, I saw a stout fellow, 
painted, pursuing me with a gun, and a cutlass glittering in 
his hand, which I expected every moment in my brains." 
Falling down the Indians did him no injury, but tied his 
arms and bade him follow in the direction where the men had 
been at work about the hay. As we went," he says, we 
crossed where my father was, who looked yery pale and bloody, 
and walked very slowly. When we came to the place, I saw 
two men shot down on the flats, and one or two knocked on 
the head with hatchets. Then the Indians brought two 
captives, one a man, and my brother James, who with me, had 
endeavored to escape by running from the house, when we 
were first attacked." 

At length the savages were ready to start with their cap- 
tives, and the narrative continues, We marched about a 
quarter of a mile, and then made halt. Here they brought 



172 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

my father to us. They made proposals to him by old Moxus, 
who told him that those were strange Indians who shot him, 
and that he was sorry for it. My father replied that he was a 
dying man and wanted no favor of them, but to pray with his 
children. This being granted him, he recommended us to the 
protection and blessing of God Almighty ; then gave us the 
best advice, and took his leave for this life, hoping in God 
that we should meet in a better land. He parted with a 
cheerful voice, but looked very pale, by reason of his great 
loss of blood, which now gushed out of his shoes. The 
Indians led him aside. I heard the blows of the hatchet, but 
neither shriek nor groan. I afterwards heard that he had five 
or seven shot holes through his waistcoat or jacket, and that 
he was covered with some boughs." 

Thomas Gyles, whose useful and honorable life was thus 
brought to a close, was a remarkable man. At what time he 
came to this country is not a certainty, but May 8th, 1669, he 
purchased land on the north side of the Pejepscot, or Andro- 
scoggin river, a few miles below Topsham village, where he 
located his family and resided several years. His father, who 
was a man of considerable wealth in England, having died, he, 
with his family, left for England, probably in 1674, and re- 
turned soon after the first destruction of the English settle- 
ments in this region. To avoid trouble with the Indians, he 
removed his family to Long Island, New York, and lived there 
several years ; but fancying that the atmosphere there was not 
suited to his constitution, and learning that the agents of the 
Duke of York were about establishing a regular government 
here, and erecting a fort, he returned to this place, and be- 
came a permanent resident. He derived an annual income 
from the estate of his father in England, and probably was the 
most wealthy citizen of the place ; and being strictly method- 
ical in his habits, he took care to purchase of the constituted 
authorities, what landed estate he needed, probably about the 



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TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQU1D 173 

falls. He also purchased one or more lots near the fort, where 
the family lived. 

He was a man of the most unbending integrity, and always 
exerted great influence in the community where he lived, but 
was not particularly popular. In his religious opinions he 
sympathized with the Puritans, and was very particular in 
regard to the proper observance of the Sabbath ; and his 
earnest attempts to discharge every duty as an upright magis- 
trate, sometimes brought him in collision with his neighbors. 

Of the two sons, James and John, the former after being in 
captivity three years, and suffering great hardship, made his 
escape to New Harbor, with another boy who had been 
captured at Casco. Here unfortunately, they were both taken 
prisoners again by the Indians, and returned to the Penobscot, 
where they were tortured to death at the stake by a slow fire. 

John, the other son, after being with the Indians about six 
years, was sold to a French gentleman, who lived somewhere 
on the Penobscot. By this man and his family he was treated 
with much kindness, being known among them as Little 
English." Finally, in the summer of 1698, a favorable 
opportunity occuring for him to secure a passage by a trader to 
Boston, his master voluntarily gave him his liberty, and he re- 
joined his two brothers and sisters in Boston, his mother 
having died several years previously. 

As he was about eleven years old when captured at the falls, 
he was of course now about twenty, with only the little educa- 
tion he had received before his capture. Having obtained a 
good knowledge of the Indian language, and also the Canadian 
French, he was often employed by the government, as well as 
the traders, to act as interpreter with the Indians. In 1700 
he received a commission as Lieutenant, and was put under 
regular pay by the government ; and six years later he was 
made Captain. In 1725 he superintended the erection of the 
fort at Brunswick, which was named Fort George. Here he 
remained ten years, being in 1725 transferred to the command 



174 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

of the garrison on St. George's river. Subsequently, in 1728 
he was appointed a justice of peace, which in those days was 
considered a high honor. 

Mr. Gyles in 1736 published a very interesting account of 
the capture of Fort Charles, and the attending circumstances, 
and a narrative of events during his residence with the savages. 
About the same time the garrison at the fort was considerablv 
reduced, and Mr. Gyles retired from the service. The rest of 
his life was passed in Salisbury and Roxbury. He died in the 
latter place in 1755, at the age of seventy-seven. 

The complete destruction of the fort and settlement at 
Pemaquid was considered a great achievement by the Indians ; 
and they assured M. Thury, on their return, that with two 
hundred Frenchmen, a little acquainted with the country, and 
ready to follow their lead, they would not hesitate to march 
upon Boston. The same feeling was shown by the French in 
Nova Scotia and Canada ; and from this time hopes began to 
be entertained by them that they might be able utterly to 
exclude the English from the continent, at least as far south 
as New York and New Jersey. 



- 

Sir William 1'hips. native of Maine, first American chosen Gov- 
ernor, and first to be Knighted by the King of England. 
Builder of Fort Wm. Henry at Pemaquid. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 



Fort William Henry 1692-1696. 

THE third fort erected here by the energy and influence of 
Sir William Phips, has an interesting record. 

It puzzled me for several years after coming here, to under- 
stand why a fort so formidable and expensive was required, as 
was this first one, built of stone, away down east." This 
fortification was designed to declare and to maintain the claim 
and the rights of the English to the eastern territory, and also 
to restrain the Indians from encroachment on the western 
settlements. 

The territory called Acadia, whose western boundary was 
never determined, was passed back and forth between 
England and France by successive treaties. It had been last 
yielded to France by the treaty of Breda in 1667, and the sur- 
render of Fort Charles and its destruction, put the French into 
full possession. But the capture of Port Royal by Phips and 
his forces in 1680, brought back the eastern country into the 
hands of the English. To hold it securely was a reason for 
the rebuilding of the fort at Pemaquid. 

A noted Frenchman, Baron De Castine, had secured the 
good graces of Madockawando, the chieftain of the Penobscot 
tribe, and had married his daughter. The Indians seem to 
have been easy converts to the Jesuit's faith and were ready 
allies with the French against the English colonists. Long 
and bloody were the struggles on this border land of New 
England, where the native red man strove to hold his own, 
his native land" and the white man struggled for supremacy 
and possession, till at last the English conquered both the 



176 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

French and natives, and made vain the former's boast that 
they would drive them from America, although they once 
held possession of more territory of this country than the Eng- 
lish did. 

Sir William Phips, our hero and builder of this fort, and his 
contemporary, friend and historian, Cotton Mather, like many 
others connected with the early history of New England, 
deserve more than a passing notice. 

Many noted men of those times were harshly treated by 
their fellow citizens during their lifetime, because as officers of 
the home government at England, they were sworn to obey 
and enforce the laws of their rulers, which so often conflicted 
with the interests of the colonists here. Impartial writers 
have recently given us interesting accounts of some of these 
men : Mather, Phips, Andros, and others. 

Sir William Phips was the son of James Phips of Bristol, 
England, and is said to have been one of a family of twenty- 
six children. A few quotations from a biographical sketch of 
Sir Wm. Phips written by Mr. Wm. Goold, are worthy of note 
here. Referring to Mather, he says, Drake in his life of him 
says : Literature owes a vast deal to Cotton Mather, espe- 
cially for his historical and biographical works. Were these 
alone to be stsuck out of existence, it would make a void in 
these departments of literature that would confound many who 
affect to look upon them with contempt." 

The following account will show the connection of Phips 
with Salem witchcraft, and something of his character : — 

When Sir William Phips had well canvassed a cause, which 
perhaps might have puzzled the wisest men on earth to have 
managed without an error, he thought if it would be any error 
at all, it certainly would be safest for him to put a stop unto 
all future prosecutions, as far as it lay in him to do it. 

He did so, and for so doing had the printed acknowledg- 
ments of the New Englanders, who publicly thanked him. 
The Queen sent him autograph letters commending his 



Y'OU are defired to Accompany the Corps 
of Sir William Fbifp, Knight, from 
Salters-Hall, in Srt>itbint-Lime } to the Pari/h- 
Church of St. Mary Woolnotb, in Lombard- 
ftreet ; On Thurfday the 21ft. of February, 
169}. At Five of the Clock in the After- 
noon precifely : And bring this Ticket with 
you, 



'<# /V 



}ft WtLLIAM PHJPPS . 






The King's Invitation to the Funeral of Sir William Phips 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 177 

course. A court of oyer and terminer had been selected from 
the Councillors to try the witches. Our journalist, Sewall, 
was a member. They had held two or three sessions before 
the arrival of the charter, and condemned many. The ques- 
tion coming up in the Council about its sitting again, Sewall 
represents Governor Phips as saying, It must fall," and that 
was the last of it. Governor Phips finally pardoned all those 
in the prisons accused of witchcraft." 

After the witchcraft mania had begun to subside, Govern- 
or Phips turned his attention to the next greatest trouble 
under which he found the people suffering. That was the 
French and Indian war. We must again consult his biograph- 
er, Dr. Mather, who says : ' Now he was come to the govern- 
ment, his mind was very vehemently set upon recovering of 
those parts from the miseries which a new and long war of the 
Indians had brought upon them. His birth and youth in the 
east had rendered him well known to the Indians there ; he 
had hunted and fished many a weary day in his childhood 
with them ; and when those rude salvages had got the story by 
the end that he had found a ship full of money, and was now 
become all-one-a-king ! they were mightily astonished at it ; 
but when they further understood that he was become the 
Governor of New England, it added a further degree of con- 
sternation to their astonishment. He was likewise better 
acquainted with the situation of those regions than most other 
men.' " 

On the arrival of Governor Phips at Boston, May 14, 1692, 
( from his visit to England ) with the new charter and his 
commission as Governor, he proceeded to erect a strong fort 
at Pemaquid such as had never before been seen in all the 
region." A bill was passed by the legislative assembly, 
authorizing a tax of £30,000 for general purposes. Nearly 
£20,000 of that amount was used in paying for the construc- 
tion of that fort. Having engaged some four hundred and 
fifty men, and such tools and materials as were needed, he 



178 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQU1D 

sailed from Boston in August, having with him, Col. Benj. 
Church, commander of the province forces. On their way 
they stopped at Falmouth (now Portland) and took on board 
the large guns which had lain there since the destruction of 
Fort Loyal, more than two years, and decently buried the 
bones of the slain which lay bleaching upon the ground. 

After coming safely to anchor at Pemaquid Harbor, a site 
for the new fort was selected, covering the same locality as 
Fort Charles, but extending a little farther west, so to include 
the great rock which the Indians had used as a defence when 
they captured the fort, three years previous. Mather gives 
the following description of the fort which they constructed in 
the second volume of his Magnalia," page 540 

Description of Fort William Henry. 

" Captain Wing, assisted with Captain Bancroft, went 
through the former part of the work ; and the latter part of it 
was finished by Captain March. His Excellency, attended in 
this matter, with these worthy Captains, did in a few months 
despatch a service for the king, with a prudence, and industry, 
and thriftiness, greater than any reward they ever had for it. 
The fort, called the William Henry, was built of stone, in a 
quadrangular figure, being about seven hundred and thirty- 
seven foot in compass, without the outer walls, and one hun- 
dred and eight foot square, within the inner ones ; twenty- 
eight ports it had, and fourteen ( if not eighteen ) guns mount- 
ed, whereof six were eighteen pounders. The wall on the 
south line, fronting to the sea, was twenty-two foot high, and 
more than six foot thick at the ports, which were eight foot 
from the ground. The greater flanker or round tower, at the 
western end of this line, was twenty-nine foot high. The 
wall on the east line was twelve foot high, on the north it was 
ten, on the west it was eighteen. It was computed that in 
the whole there were laid above two hundred cartloads of 
stone. It stood about a score of rods from high water mark ; 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 179 

and it had generally, at least sixty men posted in it for its de- 
fence, which if they were men, might easily have maintained 
it against more than twice six hundred assailants." 

The Destruction of Fort William Henry in 1696. 

Early in the season, plans for the reduction of New England 
were discussed by the French officers at Canada and Acadia. 
The Indians began depredations in New Hampshire and 
Western Maine. Peace about Pemaquid was due to the 
presence of the strongest fastness of the British in North 
America." This fort was a great annoyance to the Indians 
because it was directly on their line of travel along the sea 
coast They would not venture to go around Pemaquid Point 
in their bark canoes, but would carry them on their heads 
across the land from New Harbor to Pemaquid Outer Harbor. 
It was of the utmost importance to both the French and 
Indians that they should gain possession of this fort. 

The Indian trail between these two villages has been point- 
ed out to me at the highest point of land between them, by 
Mr. Alexander Brackett, who found a fine Indian gouge close 
by it, when he dug the cellar for his store. ( We have it in 
our collection.) He told me that he owed his life to an 
Indian doctor of the Penobscot tribe, who with many others 
used to follow up the custom of their forefathers, by crossing 
over the same trail yearly. They passed the whole summer 
on a trip from Old Town, near Bangor, Maine, (where about 
five hundred still reside ) to the head waters of the Sheepscot 
and return. They were Catholics, and I am told visited a 
church at Whitefield to have their sins pardoned. Besides the 
Doctors, Mitchell and Big Thunder, there were others that 
made baskets, bows, arrows, etc., and sold them to the differ- 
ent villages along their route. 

I remember of attending a traveling show given by a 
company of that tribe at New Harbor, in which their war- 
dances, their marriage ceremonies, hideous war-whoops, and 



180 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

scalping scenes were most vividly portrayed. A son of Dr. 
Mitchell visited this place last year, having baskets and small 
trinkets to sell. I took him across the bay one morning in 
my little boat to meet the steamer, and he told me several 
stories of Big Thunder and his father. His family made the 
goods which he was selling. He expressed regret that he had 
not followed the profession of his father, ( who was familar 
with 150 different kinds of medical plants) who, he said, be- 
came so skillful a physician that he would sometimes be called 
long distances to attend difficult cases, and would receive as 
high as eighty and one hundred dollars for a single visit. 

The French had two frigates well armed and equipped, on 
this shore, named 1'Envieux and la Profonde, under the com- 
mand of D'Iberville. They encountered two English ships, 
the Newport and Sorlings, with a small vessel for a tender, 
that had been sent east to capture French prizes, but the 
latter proved too strong for them and captured the Newport, 
while the other escaped by sailing out of sight into the fog, 
which fortunately settled down over them just in time. After 
repairing the ships they sailed for Castine, having taken on 
board about one hundred Indians as an extra crew ; then they 
found Castine had engaged the services of two hundred of the 
Penobscot tribe. 

Another French officer, Villieu, with twenty-five French 
soldiers, joined the expedition there, and the three ships sailed 
together for Pemaquid. The two hundred Indian warriors 
under Castine, started in their canoes, and reached their desti- 
nation August 13tb, and the three ships under D'Iberville the 
next day. It is believed they took their position on the 
western part of John's Bay, having Beaver and John's Islands 
as a partial means of defense. 

At five o'clock p. m, of the 14th, a summons was sent to the 
fort to surrender. Pasco Chubb, the commander, sent back 
word that he would not surrender even if the sea was 
covered with French vessels, and the land with Indians." 




Sieur D'Iberville, the French Officer who Captured Fort 
Wm. Henry in 1696. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 181 

The fighting then began, but little was accomplished on either 
side that evening. During the night the French landed 
heavy cannon and mortars, according to the best authority, at 
the first a little west of the Barbacan, and by three o'clock the 
next day had them in position on the high bluff near where 
the Hotel Edgemere was formerly located. No doubt the 
place was then well covered with trees, which would conceal 
their movements from watchmen on the fort. 

These positions of the ships and battery I think are verified 
by the position of the cannon balls found here. I have the 
evidence of Mr. Calvin C. Robbins and William Erskine that a 
large number of cannon balls were found near the burying- 
ground year after year, as they were ploughed out of the 
ground. They were carried to the old barn and barrels of 
them were finally sold for old junk at one-half cent a pound. 

Mr. Allen Lewis and Lyman Curtis, the latter still living, 
have both told me that when boys they were on board of 
vessels called old junkmen " that used to cruise along the 
shore and sell tinware and calico, as tin peddler with carts, 
did the same goods by land, taking in exchange old rags, iron, 
rubber, etc. Other shot of the same caliber have been found 
south of the village in the garden of Mr. Frank Chadwick. 
From these two positions named where the shot were found 
( and some have been found recently ) we find the fort to be in 
range of the positions said to have been occupied by the ships 
and batteries, and learn the distance they were fired. 
Evidently, all these shot were intended for the fort, but the 
French gunners were either poor marksmen, like the Spanish 
in our late unpleasantness with them ; or they were a long 
time in getting their true range and wasted much ammunition 
without avail. 

The French, after getting their mortars in place, began 
throwing bomb-shells at the fort. Doubtless some of them 
landed inside the walls. We have no means of knowing how 



182 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

many people were gathered there for protection, driven from 
their homes by fear of the Indians. 

I imagine that they and the soldiers then got the greatest 
surprise of their lives. Here, then, was a new element of 
destruction, brought into use I think, for the first time in the 
history of warfare in this country. It is certain the English 
had no bomb-proof covers for protection for the inmates, only 
small ones for the powder magazines under the Rock and 
Bastion. Consternation and despair came with this new 
shrieking element of destruction, and it seemed that this place 
of fancied security for themselves and little ones, had now 
become a slaughter-pen, where they were gathered like a 
helpless flock of sheep, to perish en masse. 

Just then Castine offered them another chance to save their 
lives, by sending a letter into the fort, which informed them 
if they surrendered they should be transported to a place of 
safety, and receive protection from the savages ; but if they 
were taken by assault they would have to deal with the In- 
dians and must expect no quarter, for such were the instruc- 
tions from the king. The History of Bristol and Bremen 
states, that when Hutchinson wrote his history of Massa- 
chusetts he had the original note of Castine before him. 
When hostilities ceased, the terms of surrender were agreed 
upon by the officers of the fort, all marched out and were con- 
voyed to one of the adjacent islands for protection from the 
Indians, and Villieu with sixty French soldiers, took posses- 
sion. They found an Indian confined with irons in the fort, 
who had been there a prisoner since a fight between the men 
at the fort and Indians, on the previous February. He was in 
a miserable condition, having suffered much from his long 
confinement. 

On learning of his condition, the other Indians were greatly 
enraged, and it was fortunate that the English had been taken 
to a place of safety, or they might not have escaped the fury of 
the savages. Among Chubb's private papers was found an 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 183 

order, recently from the Massachusetts authorities, to hang 
the wretched Indian prisoner ; but the French wisely kept the 
information from the natives. 

The conduct of Chubb in thus surrendering the fort so 
readily, was severely condemned by the Massachusetts Colony. 
It was in good condition, had a good bomb-proof magazine, 
partly under the Great Rock," fifteen mounted cannon, a 
garrison of ninety-two men, and sufficient supplies for a long 
siege. Chubb and his men had only one excuse for so easily 
giving up the fort, and that was to save the indiscriminate 
slaughter of innocent and defenseless people, confined within 
its walls, by the deadly bomb-shell, which they could not re- 
sist or offset with like missiles. 

The cannon and other property of the fort were then re- 
moved on board the French ships, except the small arms, 
which with much ammunition was distributed among the In- 
dians, much to their satisfaction. The fort and everything 
about it were destroyed, the walls thrown down as far as 
possible, and on the eighteenth of the month, they took their 
departure for the Penobscot. 

Chubb was arrested on his return to Boston, and thrown 
into prison. After several months' confinement he was re- 
leased, and returned to his family at Andover, Massachusetts, 
where he and his wife were killed by the Indians, February 
22, 1698. About thirty of them visited the place on purpose 
to avenge the wrongs they believed he had done them. 

The following documents from French sources, make an in- 
structive supplement to the story of the taking of Fort William 
Henry, and are of much importance for comparison with the 
English documents. 

First Document. 

From French Documents Found in Manuscript in the Bos- 
ton Library, and Translated by Rev. Henry O. Thayer. 



184 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

Plan for the Enterprise Against Pemaquid. 

If his Majesty would make entirely sure the possession of 
Acadia, the alliance and fidelity of the savages, and would 
hinder the English from forming and easily executing their 
plans for overrunning that section west of the outer St. Law- 
rence as far as Quebec, it is thought that in the present con- 
dition of affairs, that end cannot be attained except by ruining 

the fort at P situated between the rivers 

Pentagoet ( Penobscot ) and Kennebec. There the greater 
part, and the most warlike of the savages of Acadia, make 
their home and have established themselves in a kind of 
villages. 

This fort which the English have undertaken to build on 
the land of France, because it is the river Kennebec which 
should make the boundary, and which separates it from New 
England, is situated in a bay over against an island which 
closes the entrance, and which has on the two sides a channel 
for the largest vessels. This fort is about 25 fathoms square. 
The face or curtain, which looks to the south and commands 
the roadstead, is a wall of 8 or 9 feet in thickness, not ter- 
raced more than at the curtains of the fort. Upon this wall 
are twelve pieces of cannon with their embrasures, and at the 
end of it and at the angle which looks to the southwest, is a 
great tower of about five yards in diameter, which is arched. 
Upon this are five more pieces of cannon, which bear upon the 
sea. Inside of the arch is the powder magazine. 

The three other curtains are walls 4 or 5 feet in thickness, 
and at the angle which looks to the northeast, there is a little 
bastion, on which there are three pieces of cannon which bear 
upon the land. The other two angles are not fortified, al- 
though approach to them is easy, and they are not defended 
only by that tower and that bastion. The lodgings are in 
sheds along the three curtains that look toward the land. 
There are loopholes in these walls for the Musketeers. 

Out from this bay there is a little harbor, in which the 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUTD 185 

anchorage at a half league in distance, is good for the largest 
vessels. From this little harbor, where there are twelve or 
fifteen houses scattered and dilapidated, to the Fort of P. 

it is only three-quarters of league, and there is a 
cart road fine and new. Sieur de Villebon, who has recon- 
noitered the whole, disguised as a savage, has recently sent on 
all the plans of it, and Sieur de Bonaventure has brought away 
with him from Acadia two men who have been there several 
times, and who are ready to return with him. Sieur Paquire, 
the king's engineer, who was conducted there by Sieur de 
Villebon in 1698, has taken the plan of it, which he sent this 
time to the court. 

Second Document. 

For this expedition, it is believed two vessels of war will be 
necessary, which certainly can be added without any great in- 
crease of expense along with what has been sent, which his 
Majesty pleases to grant annually for Quebec and Acadia, for 
the subsistence of the troops which he maintains there. 
The two vessels will go to anchor at Mount Desert, which is 
an isle at the entrance to the river of Pentagoet, where the 
anchorage is very good and sure, and which is only 15 leagues 
from Fort P. The commander will find all the sav- 

ages assembled at Pentagoet according to orders which they 
received some months previously. 

The commander will send a shallop into the river Pentagoet 
to inform the savages, and then will select the officers to 
command them and to march with them at a designated day, 
to a half league of the fort P. . . There they will abide 
without showing themselves in the wood, taking such position 
that no one whatever can go out of the fort without falling 
into their hands. The commander will have distributed to 
them all food for six days. 

Then the vessels will set sail to go to an anchorage in New 
Harbor, which is the place that has been designated as distant 



186 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

only three-quarters of a league from the fort of P . 
At this place they will put ashore the commander, the officers, 
the engineers, the soldiers, cannoniers, bombardiers, and the 
light artillery and the munitions, as well as those for war as 
for personal use. While his officers and soldiers shall march to 
invest the fort in conjunction with the savages, who will join 
them on the way and will lead on the artillery to attack this 
fort, the vessels will sail and come round to anchor in the bay 
under cover of an island which is only a good quarter of a 
league from the fort, and from whence they can conveniently 
furnish food and ammunition needed by the officers, soldiers 
and savages, and at the same time prevent the English frigates 
from being able to throw reinforcements into this fort. 

After the capture and demolition of this fort and its artil- 
lery and the embarkation of officers and soldiers, they will dis- 
tribute to the savages all the remaining provisions which had 
been provided for them for this expedition. Then having in- 
cited them to make incursion into the enemy's country, the 
vessels will weigh anchor to go to their destination. 

Third Document 

Whoever it may be who has said that the taking of the fort 
of Pemkuit would protect the French fisheries on the shores of 
Acadia and the river of Quebec, and would prevent those par- 
ties which can come to Montreal and Quebec from the borders 
of the English and the Iroquois, — such a one is foolish and 
does not know the country ; but what one can say with reason 
is this : — that the taking of the fort of Pemkuit which very 
greatly inconveniences the Canebas and Abenakis, will assure 
their friendship ; and if these savages had united with the 
English it would not have been safe to make a settlement in 
the section south of the river of Quebec, and also that those 
savages form a barrier for Canada, which comprises La Cadie 
(Acadia) and extends as far as opposite to Quebec. This is 
what is true and what will always be reasonable to say. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 187 

Fourth Document 
Letter of the Minister to Mons. Begon. 

Versailles 22 Febr 1696. 
I have written in your absence to Mons Manclerc that the 
king has assigned the [war-]ship the " Envious," and the 
store-ship the Profound " armed for war, for the voyage to 
Acadia. His Majesty has resolved to make an attack on the 
fort which the English have at the entrance to the river of 
Pemaquid. 

There are needed for this purpose some provisions of which 
you will find a list appended to this, for subsistence of the sav- 
ages which will be employed on this expedition. 

It is needful for you to have them provided. On your ad- 
vising me what they will cost I will have the funds remitted 
to you for them. 

Statement of provisions for the reinforcement and for a partic- 
ular service, which will be shipped on the vessels the 
Envious" and the Profound." 

40 barrels of meal at 41 10c per quintal 1400 

10 quarters of bacon at 331 330 

300 lb do of lard at 8c the p 120 

60 bushels of peas at 55c 165 

2 barrels of eau de vie [brandy] at 701 140 

300 lb of Brazillian tobacco at 15c 225 

one barrel of Bordeaux prunes 28 

Total amount for provisions 2408 li 

Artillery, Arms, Munitions 

2 Brass cannon for 12lb ball, with their field carriages and 
necessary implements. 

2 Brass mortars of 1 1 to 12001b with their carriages and im- 
plements for the same M. dTberville has brought back 
two of them from his expedition. 

400 balls, 200 bombs and the necessary powder for the cannon 
and mortars. 



188 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

8001b of gunpowder. 
10001b of lead in balls. 
8000 gun flints. 

300 worm-screws [or gun-worms. J 
50 powder horns. 

50 service sabres ) these two articles will be brought back to 
20 service guns > the armory from which they shall be taken., 
200 light grenades. 

Two campaigning wheels [wheels for the land] six feet in di- 
ameter. 
Four pieces of iron [or masses of un wrought iron] weighing 8 V 

10, 12, and 15 lbs. 
30 pick-axes. 
12 picks. 
10 spades. 

20 shovels, iron bound [or tipped.} 
40 medium Swiss axes. 
8 augers. 
3000 assorted nails. 

All which can not be of service, or shall not be fully used, 
will be returned to the armory from which they shall be taken. 

Fifth Document. 

Instructions to Sieur D'Iberville Commander oe the 
King's Ships — " L'Envieux " and the Profound." 

Versailles, 28 Mars, 1696. 

" If [certain vessels are not on the coast etc.] His Majesty 
thinks it the most advantageous course that he should go with 
the " Envieux " which he commands and the Profound " 
commanded by Sieur de Bonaventure, directly to Pentagoet to 
undertake the execution of the enterprise against Pemaquid 
before their arrival on the coast is known in Boston." 

[if at Pemaquid he does not find the savages assembled nor 
soon to be, then go to St. John's river first.] 

" After the taking of the fort of Pemaquid and putting him- 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 189 

self into a state to make defence in case he should be attacked 
there during the little time he will have to stay on land, he 
should go to work without any delay, to demolish and entirely 
to destroy the fortifications and generally all the vessels of 
Pemaquid and the vicinity if any are there, employing for the 
purpose all his men that he can, and especially the savages, in 
order that this destruction may extend to the foundations, by 
the work of the hand, and by fire and mines, and he will pre- 
pare a report and have it certified by the officers present." 

Sixth Document. 

Report from M. de Champigny. 

Quebec, 25th October, 1696. 

Count Frontenac received at Quebec letters from M. Thury, 
Missionary in Acadia, of 25 of May, by which he learned what 
had occurred at Pemaquid fort, between the Abenaquis savages 
and the English. 

There had been a project for an exchange of prisoners of 
which Sieur St. Castine took charge in behalf of M. Count 
Frontenac. No more interested or intelligent an agent could 
be chosen. 

Some Frenchmen had been employed to carry letters to the 
governor of Boston, by which to determine the place for the 
negotiations. But as they could not accomplish it, they were 
obliged to engage some savages, who carried the letter which 
the English prisoners wrote to the officers who commanded 
Pemaquid fort. 

The officer knew so well how to turn the minds of those 
savages, that he persuaded them to come to his fort, to obtain 
what would be necessary for them, promising that the trade 
should be carried on in good faith. Taxus, an important 
chief of Abenaquis, first fell into the snare, and in spite of the 
remonstrances of M. Thury, who showed the difficulties into 
which their credulity would bring them, and who separated 
from them and withdrew into the woods, with as many as he 



190 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

could draw — was followed by many others who all went to 
the English fort. 

They traded there peacefully several days, but at length the 
prophecies of their Missionaries proved true ; the English, see- 
ing these principal chiefs assembled within range of the 
musketry of the fort, commenced by killing Edserimet 
[Egeremet ?] a famous chief and his son, by pistol shots. 
Taxus was seized by three soldiers and some others likewise, 
one of which was carried off alive into the fort ; two others got 
free by using their knives upon the three enemies who had 
each seized them, and it cost the lives of four English. One 
of our savages lost his life by shots fired from the fort ; another 
saved Taxus, who had also killed two enemies with his knife. 
So this treachery has caused us to lose four men and our 
enemies six. 

Some Abenaquis and other savages of Kennebec surprised 
on some islands opposite the fort, a detachment from the 
garrison of Pemaquid and killed twenty-three of them. 

The two ships of the King, the * Envious " and the Pro- 
found " with their prize Newport, returned at length to Penta- 
goet where, after trading with the savages and distributing 
the King's presents, they embarked two hundred and forty of 
them ; at the head of which was Sieur St. Castine and twenty- 
five soldiers detached from the company of Sieur Villieu with 
their captain and S. Montigny, his lieutenant. 

They anchored before Pemaquid on the 10th of August. 
S. d'Iberville at once summoned the fort to surrender, which 
the commander refused to do. Then he landed two field guns 
and two mortars. The batteries were placed in a little time 
and they were satisfied with firing four bombs which they 
threw over beyond the fort. 

Again the summons was made with a declaration to give 
them no quarter, if they did not heed it. They accepted the 
orders of S. d'Iberyille to go out with their clothing only, 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 191 

<on condition of being sent to Boston and exchanged for French 
or savages who should come in there as prisoners. S. d'lber- 
ville took possession of the fort : an Abenaquis captured at the 
same time as Edzrimet had been killed. As we have said, the 
garrison consisted of ninety-two men, without reckoning any 
women and children. 

There were in this fort fifteen pieces of cannon : the guns 
and other munitions of war were given up to the savages to 
recompense them for the losses which the fort had caused 
them. 

Seventh Document. 
[From Paris Documents, in Col. History of N. Y.J 
Accounts of provisions and stores for an attack on the fort. 

Two months' provisions to be brought for the subsistance of 
the Indians estimated at 200 men to be loaded equally in the 
3 vessels. 

2000 lbs. of flour. 

2 tierces molasses to flavor their sagamite. 
200 lbs. of butter for the same purpose. 

10 bbls. of brandy ; without which it will be impossible to 
prevail on them to act efficiently. 

In order to avoid incumbering the ships, the surplus of pro- 
visions they may require during two months, can be sent for, 
on their arrival to Minas or Port Royal, where they could be 
procured cheaper than in France, and be advanced by the 
Company's Agent who is in that Country. 

Memorandum of presents for the Indians of Acadia, for the 
sum 364QH which his Majesty grants them in order to wage 
war against the English. 
2000 lbs Powder. 
40 bbls. of Bullets. 
10 Swan shot. 

400 lbs. of Brazilian Tobacco. 



192 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

200 Tomahawks of which M. de Bonaventure will furnish the 

pattern. 
60 selected guns like those of this year. 
200 Mulaix shirts averaging 30s each. 
8 lbs. of fine vermillion. 
200 tufts of white feathers to be given the Indians in order to 

designate them during the night in case of attack, and 

which will cost at most only six at 7c ; to be selected in 

Paris by M. de Bonaventure. 

Which presents will be distributed among the Indians when 
they will be all assembled at the rendezvous to be indicated to 
them. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 



Fort Frederic 1729-1775. 

JOHNSTON informs us that as early as January 10, 1700, 
four years after the destruction of Fort William Henry by 
the French and Indians, the board of trade, by order of the 
king of England, made a report of the conditions of the several 
forts in his Majesty's plantations. They advised, that for the 
security of that port and all the country round, and to en- 
courage the people to settle there as formerly, the fort should 
be rebuilt at Pemaquid. 

The authorities both of England and at Boston, recognized 
the necessity of a strong fort at Pemaquid, but neither wished 
to incur the expense. Thus for thirty-three years the walls of 
Fort William Henry lay piled in shapeless ruin. 

The white settlers who gradually returned to Pemaquid after 
the treaty of Utrecht in 1713, encroached upon the lands of 
the natives. Wars and contention were of frequent occurence. 
Treaties were made and broken, Gov. Dudley of the Massa- 
chusetts colony visited the ruins of Fort William Henry, and 
he with others strove to have the fort rebuilt, without avail. 
Conferences were frequently held between the better classes of 
"whites and Indians, showing that the latter were alarmed at 
the continual encroachments of the English, and the evil in- 
fluence they exerted by illegal traffic in liquor and other 
articles. Complaints were made that the truckmaster at St. 
George, Capt. John Gyles, allowed their young men too much 
rum and had dealt out to them sour meal and damnified 
tobacco. They complained that in one instance the English 
bad killed two of their dogs, for only barking at a cow. Their 



194 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

request to the English was, " never to let the trading houses 
deal in much rum. It wastes the health of our young men, it 
unfits them to attend prayers. It makes them carry ill, both, 
to your people and their own brethren. This is the mind of 
our chief men." 

These trading or truck houses, as they were often called,,, 
were places where the English kept supplies to sell or ex- 
change with the Indians for furs and other articles they might 
have to dispose of. 

The British government, having failed in all this time to in- 
duce the Massachusetts Bay Colony to rebuild the fort at 
Pemaquid, at last resolved to do it. Early in the Spring of 
1729, David Dunbar arrived here with a royal commission as 
Governor, authorizing him to rebuild the fort. He was also 
appointed surveyor general of the king's woods, which re- 
quired him to protect the timber of this region, which was 
suitable for masts, and other purposes for the royal navy. 

After rebuilding the fort he named it Fort Frederic in honor 
of the young prince of Wales, and removed his family here. 
A detachment of thirty men under proper officers, was sent 
here to garrison the fort. Aided by a surveyor named Mitchel 
he laid out magnificent plans for a city about the fort, and: 
three townships, which he named after three English noble- 
men of the day, Townsend, now Boothbay, Harrington and 
Walpole, now parts of Bristol. He invited settlers from all 
parts of the country, promising to supply them land on easy- 
terms. 

As an illustration of the hardships endured by some of the 
first settlers here, soon after the fort was rebuilt, one William 
Moore, aged seventy-two years, testified that from various 
causes, " provisions were so scarce among them, the only sus- 
tenance this deponent could find for himself and family was 
clams and water for several weeks together, and he knows not 
any of the settlers that were not then in the same state, so 
that when the first child was born in the settlement, not more 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 195 

than three quarts of meal was to be found amongst them all." 
Stories of this last fort built, the many stirring and eventful 
scenes enacted in and about it ; the bloody tales of cruel war- 
fare of which Mrs. M. VV. Hackelton wrote in her poem en- 
titled Jamestown of Pemaquid ; " those are the tales of 
adventure ; records of tribulation endured by these border 
settlers in their grim and stubborn struggle for a foothold and 
new homes in this region. The echoes of their struggles, 
though now dying out, still linger with us, and few people in 
all the region but have heard the stories handed down by 
tradition about Fort Frederic and connected with the settle- 
ment here. 

They know well that for many years this fort was the haven 
of refuge and safety, when the wily savage sought vengeance 
on the white man for encroachment on his land. 

I find the names of Moses Young, Keent, James Sproul, 

and Reed, who received lots of land lying on the west 

bank of the Pemaquid River, opposite the fort. They were 
side by side in the order named, Young's being the northern 
one. Sproul's lot was the same as that occupied by the late 
Capt. John Sproul who was his grandson. The latter was 
accustomed to show in his field some distance east of his house, 
the foundations of a stone house, erected and occupied by his 
grandfather ; many of their descendants yet reside here. 
Depredations by the Indians always began when war was de- 
clared between France and England, the Indians not even 
waiting for a formal declaration of war ; they often took the 
inhabitants unawares. 

Stories by Capt. Robert Martin and His Sister Miss 
Margaret. 

During one of these unexpected visits to this vicinity by the 
Indians, they found a mother with her two daughters picking 
berries some ways east of the fort. On seeing them at a 
distance they all fled for protection, but the youngest girl t 



196 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

about eleven years old, was overtaken and scalped. The 
child scalped was thrown on a pile of rocks connected with an 
outcropping ledge on the east side of McCaffrey's Creek, about 
one-third the distance from the head to the old burying-ground. 
Strange to tell, the child's life was saved ; while lying on the 
rocks her head was in a position to receive the direct rays of 
the sun, which stanchced the blood, and by that means saved 
her life, and she was restored to her friends. This is the third 
case I have ever heard of where a person survived the terrible 
ordeal of being scalped. 

At the foot of Clark's Hill on which the school house now 
stands, near the house built by Mr. Geo. N. Lewis and since 
occupied by Mr. Waldo Fossett and Wm. Lewis, with their 
families, once stood the home of a family named Clark. One 
day as Mrs. Clark was milking her cows, two Indians surprised 
her, grabbing her and holding her fast. When they had drank 
all the milk they wanted, they took her by the arms> one on 
each side, and began to lead her up the hill. As they were 
treating her rather roughly, she hung back and indicated that 
she would follow them if they would let go of her. 

She followed them for some distance, gradually dropping 
back until she was some ways behind, ' while they trotted on 
their tiptoe gate leaning forward " as the captain described it. 
Turning suddenly, Mrs. Clark fled for her life towards the fort. 
Perceiving which, one of the Indians raised his gun and fired 
at her. In those days the women wore what was called 
" loose gowns and petticoats." The fastening of her lower 
garment gave way, and tripping over it, she fell to the ground 
just in time to escape the bullet of the Indian, which grazed 
along her back, wounding her slightly. She was soon on her 
feet and off again, and the soldiers from the fort came to her 
relief, being warned by the report of the Indian's gun. 

When the French and Indian War closed by the fall of 
Quebec in 1759, the usefulness of the fort was ended, which 
for thirty years had been the haven of refuge, the birth-place, 
the school and home, of many of the early settlers. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 197 

At the Rock Cottage we have a fine portrait of Gen. William 
North, who was born at this fort in 1755 ; drawn and con- 
tributed by Mrs. Fannie Hoyt, formerly Ellis, of this town, to 
the Pemaquid Improvement Association. 

After a few years of peace, in 1762 the great cannon of this 
fort were carried away to Boston, which had outgrown Pema- 
quid, and again began the slow decay of this fort, when the 
people who had used it for protection, scattered away to their 
homes and different occupations. 

I find by the first book of records of the town of Bristol, that 
about a month after the battle of Lexington, Massachusetts, 
where the Revolution began April 19, 1775, that the people 
here became alarmed for their safety and held a town meeting 
at Capt. John Sproul's house, on May 24, 1775. The first 
vote recorded, read as follows ; 1st. Voted that we go down 
to Pemaquid and tear down the old fort. 2d. Voted that 
next Tuesday be the day to do it." The settlers had become 
alarmed by the depredations of the British, as their ships came 
along this shore before reaching other parts of New England, 
and as they considered the Yankees rebels, they came on shore 
and helped themselves to their cattle, sheep and hogs, to 
obtain supplies of fresh meat. 

Two years ago we had a visit from Dr. Perkins of Rockland, 
Maine, who spent several days in this vicinity to locate the 
home of his great-grandfather, Mr. Catlin, which he found 
was on the mainland just west of the bridge which joins it to 
Rutherford's Island. The following story was told him by his 
aunt. One day a British officer appeared there with several 
soldiers and proceeded to take possession of his oxen. Mr. 
Catlin made objections and tried to prevent the loss of his 
cattle but it was of no avail. This pompous British officer said 
to his men, Take this d — d Yankee rebel's oxen into his 
parlor and dress them there," and it was done. Such treat- 
ment made the people fear that the British would take posses- 
sion of the fort and use it against them, so they tore down its 
walls to prevent it. 



198 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

Several of the older people tell me that when they were 
children, the old walls stood above the ground in some places 
eight feet, showing a part of the port holes. Then, I have 
this testimony by Mr. Calvin C. Robbins, still living. ' When 
I was a boy I worked on this farm with others, for my uncle 
Samuel Blaisdell, when we had no other employment, he 
made us work on this wall, taking it down. I have worked 
on this wall till I wore the skin through on my fingers' ends 
and made them bleed." " What did you do with the stone ?" 
I inquired. " We had a cart and oxen with us, and after pry- 
ing them off and loading them, we hauled them down there," 
( pointing to the river bank ) and dumped them." I suppose 
a part of those there now, that literally pave the bank and flats 
at low tide, are a part of the old fort. Said he My uncle 
wanted to have a clear yard and view in front of his house and 
did not care to save the walls as a relic." 

The first stone tumbled down have become covered with 
soil, and the grass having grown over them and the foundation 
of the wall, it was difficult to convince strangers than even one 
fort had existed here, to say nothing of four. Bushes obscured 
the old Fort Rock, soil and rubbish the castle wall foundations, 
and we had to dig them out to convince people that they still 
remained in good condition, the same foundation built by 
Phips in 1692, over two centuries ago. The mortar they used 
in the tower castle and front wall thus far excavated, is a 
puzzle to masons who have examined it. They do not know 
its composition. Said one mason, ' It is better than the 
cement we have to-day." 



CHAPTER XXX 



Naval Engagement Off Pemaqtjid 

IN the last war with Great Britain, called the war of 1812, 
a notable conflict took place on the coast of Maine be- 
tween the U. S. brig Enterprise and Boxer. The locality of 
this fierce sea fight was between Pemaquid Point and Mon- 
hegan about midway. I spent several days last fall to verify 
the locality, because it has been claimed by some writers, that 
the battle occured further west oif Portland. With Mr. Alonzo 
Partridge as assistant, and a compass to determine the course, 
we climbed Salt Pond hill, which is on the east side of Pema- 
quid Point. On this height many of the people of the town 
stood to watch the battle and hailed with joy the victory of 
the American brig. We found that from our station on the 
hill a southeast course bore directly toward Monhegan, and 
over the ocean where the engagement occurred, according to 
the testimony of many people. That locality is about forty 
miles east of Portland. 

I have met a fisherman who had in his possession a boarding 
pike of a war vessel brought up by a fish hook from that local- 
ity. Another presented me with a human skull obtained in 
the same manner. For further evidence I visited Rockland, 
where I met Mrs. Eliza T. Smart, who reached ninety-three 
years of age in the winter of 1898, and who was doubtless then 
the only living witness of the conflict. At the time of that 
war her home was upon Matinicus Island, and all the family 
witnessed the fight. That island is ten miles east of Monhe- 
gan. I was able also to search out the starboard fore-top- 
gallant studding sail" of the brig Enterprise, having the name 



200 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

stencilled upon it, and secured a generous piece with the bolt- 
rope of the sail, both being of different material than that in- 
common use to-day. 

The British ship lay at anchor in Johns Bay, near the west 
shore of the Point, when her antagonist hove in sight, off the 
Damiscove islands. Her crew at once began preparations for 
the action. A boat's crew of the Boxer, as aged people tell,, 
were up in Pemaquid harbor, having been sent ashore for a 
supply of milk from the Old Fort house. They were signalled 
to return when the American brig was seen. The surgeon and 
attendants were at Monhegan Island, where they had been 
called to attend a lad with a broken limb, and were unable to 
get back to their vessel, as the people held them prisoners. 

Mr. Elbridge Wallace, a resident here, informed me that his 
grandfather, William Curtis, lay hid behind a wood-pile, near 
the shore where the Boxer lay, and listened to the preparation 
for the fight, and witnessed the nailing of the flag to the mast- 
head, by which they showed their determination not to sur- 
render. He afterwards crossed over to the east side of the 
point to witness the engagement. The vessels did not com- 
mence action until past three o'clock in the afternoon, and 
then the conflict was fierce and sharp at close quarters. Both 
captains were killed and many men. According to the testi- 
mony of one of her seamen, afterwards Capt. William Barnes^ 
the Boxer's hull was so riddled with shot that had the sea been 
rough she would have filled before her arrival in Portland the 
next day, where her antagonists took her, and where both cap- 
tains were buried. The British officer, when ready to stop 
fighting, shouted through his trumpet his surrender, as the flag- 
could not be hauled down, according to the usual custom. 

At the rooms of the Maine Historical Society, in Portland, 
may be seen the medicine chest of the Boxer, a photograph of 
a painting of the vessel when in the merchant service two 
years later, and also several books giving a full description of 
the engagement. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 201 

The name of the American captain was William Barrows, 
aged 28 ; his lieutenant, Kerman Waters, and the English 
captain was Samuel Blithe, aged 29 years. All three were 
buried side by side on the eastern side of the old cemetery, at 
Portland. 

An Interesting Letter. 

S. E. Norcross sent to the Rockland Free Press the following 
interesting letter : 

Bristol, Maine, June 10th, 1882. 
Miss S. E. Norcross : 

Dear Friend — In the Herald and Record, Damariscotta, of 
June 1, is published a statement of the battle between the En- 
terprise and Boxer, during the war of 1812. Permit me to 
add an incident in the visit of the Boxer to our waters, the day 
before her capture. The Boxer was cruising off Bristol. Cap- 
tain John Sproul, with one of the Bristol companies of militia, 
was quartered in the old Fort Frederic, now called the old 
Pemaquid Fort, so famous in Indian wars. In Pemaquid har- 
bor, just above the fort, lay a brig at anchor. Saturday the 
Captain of the Boxer saw her and came into Pemaquid bay, as 
it is called, within a half mile of the fort, and sent a boat with 
a flag to the fort, and demanded that they be permitted to 
board the brig unmolested. As the brig was under a foreign 
flag — Spanish, I believe — permission was granted. The boat 
after boarding the brig returned to the Boxer, which had an- 
chored, and she lay at anchor until the forenoon of Sunday, 
when the Enterprise hove in sight, and the Boxer sailed out 
around Pemaquid Point, to the eastward of which the battle 
took place. All living in sight of the ocean saw the battle, 
and the vessels were in plain sight from the high lands at 
Round Pond, in Bristol. 

We were on a hill a short distance from my father's house, 
and had an excellent spy-glass. Little could be seen of the 
vessels [while the battle lasted, because of the smoke. We 



202 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

knew the vessels because of the difference in their rig, one be- 
ing a ship and the other a brig. We could see the boats pass- 
ing and re-passing, and the Boxer's jibs were hanging under 
her bowsprit. She was only seven miles distant. 

The name of the schooner which burned about twenty sail 
of vessels off Bristol was the Bream. She was not a privateer, 
but a government vessel. She did not carry off many, if any 
of the prizes she captured, but burned them. I saw a number 
of crews which were landed from the Bream, as they were 
brought to the back shore, as it is called. 

I was born Sept. 9, 1796. Truly yours, 

Henry Chamberlain. 



A SONG OF 1812 
Fairly alive with the " spirit of 1812 " is the ballad here- 
with printed. For its contribution we have to thank H. W. 
Bryant, who discovered the militant song of years agone in a 
niche of his curio storehouse, which is so universally resorted 
to by those delving into the past. — Argus. 

Ye Parliament of England 
Ye Parliament of England, 

You Lords and Commons, too, 
Consider well what you're about 

And what you're going to do; 
You're now to fight with Yankees, 

I'm sure you'll rue the day 
You roused the Sons of Liberty 
In Nortn America. 

You first confined our commerce 

And said our ships shant trade; 
You next impressed our seamen 

And used them as your slaves; 
You then insulted Rodgers 

While ploughing on the main, 
And had we not declared war 

You'd have done it o'er again. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 203 

You thot our frigates were but feg, 

And Yankees could not fight, 
Until brave Hull your Guerriere took 

And banished her from your sight; 
The Wasp then took your Frolic, 

We'll nothing say to that, 
The Poictiers being of the line 

Of course she took her back. 

Then next your Macedoninn, 

No finer ship could swim, 
Decatur took her gilt work off 

And then he sent her in. 
The Java by a Yankee ship 

Was sunk, you all must know; 
The Peacock, fine in all her plume, 

By Lawrence down did go. 

Then next you sent your Boxer, 

To box us all about, 
But we had an "enterprising " brig 

That beat your Boxer out; 
We boxed her up to Portland, 

And moored her off the town, 
To show the Sons of Liberty 

The Boxer of renown. 

Then next upon Lake Erie, 

Where Perry had some fun, 
You own he beat your naval force, 

And caused them for to run. 
This was to you a sore defeat, 

The like n'er known before — 
Your British squadron beat complete — 

Some took, some run ashore. 

There's Rodgers, in the President, 

Will burn, sink and destroy; 
The Congress on the Brazil coast 

Your commerce will annoy; 
The Essex in the South seas, 

Will put out all your lights; 
The flag she waves at her mast-head — 

** Free trade and sailors' rights." 



204 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

Lament, ye sons of Britian, 

For distant is the day 
When you'll regain by British force 

What you've lost in America. 
Go tell your King and Parliament, 

By all the world 'tis known, 
That British force by sea and land 

By Yankees is o'erthrown. 

Use every endeavor 

And strive to make peace, 
For Yankee ships are building fast 

Their navy to increase; 
They will enforce their commerce, 

The laws by Heaven were made 
That Yankee ships in time of peace 

To any port may trade. 



CHAPTER XXXI 



The Pemaquid Improvement Association 
'HE first meeting of the Association was held October 31, 
1893, at the home of Mrs. Jennie Partridge, in the room 
then occupied as a Post Office. Following are the names of 
those who attended at that time : 

George N. Lewis J. Henry Cartland 

Henry C. Partridge Lorenzo D. McLain 

Albert C. Sproul Lincoln J. Partridge 

George D. Tarr Augustus McLain 

I spent a good part of the winter traveling on foot over this 
town and Bremen, once a part of Bristol. I succeeded in ac- 
cumulating nearly $200, and with that amount and other con- 
tributions by visitors interested, we secured enough to unearth 
the foundation walls of the Castle, which we found to be eight 
feet high, and the front walls of the fort, which were one hun- 
dred and fifty feet long and six feet thick. 

This account, with the accompanying cuts, will give one an 
idea how the foundation walls and buried relics here were first 
brought to light. 

The following report was published Jan. 11, 1894, in the 
Pemaquid Messenger. 

Names of those who have paid one dollar and more, and 
those who have pledged themselves to pay the sum set against 
their names, over that portion of the town thus far canvassed, 
to assist this Association, in connection with the Monumental 
Association, to unearth, preserve and restore the ancient land- 
marks of note, at this place. 

It is but justice to say that I have found the people of Bris- 



206 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

tol, thus far, more interested than I expected to. Many who 
have not felt able to spare the money this winter, promise to 
help the movement along in the spring ; some with money and 
others with labor. All can see that if carried on this work 
will eventually benefit every citizen who is interested in the 
moral or intellectual welfare of our town and State. 

This list has been published before completing the canvass 
of the town, or either village thoroughly, to show people that 
we are in earnest about this matter, and we trust that every 
citizen of the town and all others interested will notify their 
friends, wherever located, of this movement, and encourage 
them to send us funds to carry on this work so long neglected. 
They can well realize that one small association, village or 
town, cannot carry on this work to perfection unless others aid 
us with money. 

The illustrations accompanying this account will convey 
some idea of what has been done. The first shows how it 
looked after over half the bushes and rubbish which hid it 
from view were cleared away. The second shows a small part 
of the foundation of the old castle wall which had been hidden 
by the destruction of that above it — the precaution of the citi- 
zens at the opening of the Revolution. The top of the wall 
had been tumbled down, burying eight feet of the foundation* 
When we began work it was difficult to convince people that 
even one fort had been erected and destroyed here, to say 
nothing of four, one of which cost nearly £20,000. The next 
cut shows how it looked until the State re-built the Castle in 
1907—8. The two white towers were constructed of the stone 
which composed the upper part of the castle that has been 
twice built up and twice destroyed. Between these towers 
was a wooden structure which answered for a temporary mus- 
eum, where some of the relics discovered were placed on exhi- 
bition. The very stones used in those towers are of historic 
interest, and have been saved in close proximity to the foun- 
dations of the old castle so as to be replaced for the third time. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 207 

What more unique or appropriate monument could ever be re- 
built here? It would be a relic of colonial days unsurpassed, 
and to be compared with those seen in England and Germany 
to-day ; a tower of observation overlooking the archipelago of 
Pemaquid, the river, bay and ocean, with their panoramic 
view of ships not inferior to any along our New England 
shoi'es. Its walls would enclose rooms for a fire-proof museum 
where showcases can be placed to contain the cannon balls, 
bomb shells and other choice relics which are brought to light 
from beneath the soil of this historic place. Its inner walls 
should be decorated with the artist's canvas covered with 
paintings of the ships of war and peace and the noble men 
that once made old Pemaquid famous. Within its walls should 
be a library, where the scattered records of its history might 
be gathered and preserved, studied and enjoyed by the chil- 
dren of our old commonwealth and all others interested. 
Slowly but persistently this small organization has carried on 
the work of gathering history and unearthing the buried ruins 
of this place. We are now in need of funds to complete the 
excavations of the front wall which was begun in the fall of 
1893. We will then be able to show all visitors indisputable 
evidence of the solid structure built here long ago. We were 
rewarded by finding seventeen cannon balls ranging from three 
and one-half to seventeen and three-quarter pounds, and a bar- 
rel of choice relics near the wall thus far excavated. Our ap- 
peal is particularly to the natives of old Maine, wherever lo- 
cated, who have a pride in her past and present histor}^. Here, 
where civilization began in New England, a monument should 
be erected worthy of our State and nation. We now await 
the financial aid of tbose who have the welare of the rising 
generation at heart, and trust our past record of work done 
here will secure us the aid and confidence of those who desire 
this work go on. We may then be able to add more laurels 
to those already won by the old Pine Tree State, for being the 
first place where important events transpired in our country, 
beside the first to greet the morning sun. 



CHAPTER XXXII 



BRISTOL HISTORY 

Important Dates in Bristol and Pemaquid History 

1605 Capt. Geo. Waymouth visits the Maine coast and cap- 
tures five Pemaquid Indians. 

1607, August 8 and 10. Pemaquid is visited by Captain Pop- 
ham's Colony. 

1614 Capt. John Smith visits Monhegan and Pemaquid, 

1621 Charter issued by Council of Plymouth to John Pierce 
et als. (Pemaquid Patent.) 

1625 John Brown purchases land of Indians — Capt. John 
Samorset and Unongoit — including Muscongus, or Loud's 
Island. 

1626 Alderman Aldsworth and Gyles Elbridge of Bristol, 
England, purchase Pemaquid Patent. 

1631 Fort Pemaquid erected by Aldsworth and Eldridge. 

1632 Fort plundered by Dixie Bull, a pirate. 

1635 The "Angel Gabriel " destroyed at Pemaquid by a big 

storm. 
1664 King Charles 2d granted this territory to his brother, 

the Duke of York, afterward James 2d. 
1667 Fort Charles erected by Gov. Andros of New York. 
1 674 Devonshire County organized. 
1676 All settlements destroyed by Penobscot Indians. 
1686 Jurisdiction ceded to Massachusetts. 
1689 Fort and settlement destroyed by Indians. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 209 

1692 Fort Win. Henry built by Gov. Phips, 28 guns mounted. 
1696 Pemaquid, "the strongest fastness of the British in 
North America," captured by French and Indians under 
Castine." 

1729 Gov. David Dunbar arrives; fort re-built and named 
Fort Frederic ; Townsend, Harrington and Walpole sur- 
veyed and lotted out. 

1745-48 Fifth Indian war, many depredations committed at 
Pemaquid, Walpole and other settlements. 

1757 Nicholas Davidson becomes sole proprietor of Pemaquid 
Patent. 

1764 Population about 200. 

1765 First act of incorporation passed, and town named Bris- 
tol, for Bristol, England. Town organized Dec. 4th. 

1766 Second act, including Broad Cove, passed. 

1775 Wm. Jones sent to Legislature, the first Representative 

from Bristol. 
1775 Fort demolished by town of Bristol. 
1800 Walpole Post Office established — the first in Bristol. 

1813 The British brig Boxer captured by the Enterprise, off 
Pemaquid Point, near Monhegan. 

1814 Engagement between the British from the frigate 
Maidstone and 100 men of Pemaquid, under Capt. Sproul. 

1824 Lighthouse erected at Pemaquid Point. 

1828 Bremen incorporated, Bristol Mills Post Office estab- 
lished. 

1835 Pemaquid Falls P. O. established. 

1847 Damariscotta incorporated. 

1850 Round Pond Post Office established. 

1861-65 337 men sent to the Union Army. 

1863 South Bristol Post Office established on Rutherford's 
Island. 



210 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

Before the Post Office was established at New Harbor, Mr. 
N. J. Hanna, when a boy of about nine years of age, was em- 
ployed to bring the mail from Pemaquid Falls, a distance of 
about three miles. It came but once a week then, and his 
compensation for carrying it and traveling six miles was fifty 
cents. 

About 1878 Alex. H. Brackett was the first Postmaster ap- 
pointed by the Government, N. J. Hanna second, Edward W. 
Fossett third, Charles T. Poland fourth, and Mertland Carroll 
fifth, now serving — 1915. 

July 1, 1890, the Post Office at Pemaquid Beach was estab- 
lished, with Jennie E. Lewis, Postmaster, Nathan George 
Lewis Assistant, and J. H. Cartland, Clerk. The first daily 
paper sold there was the Boston Herald. Next to hold the of- 
fice was Winnie McLain, then Dorcas Gray, and nowbyWilda 
E. Sproul. Both the New Harbor and Pemaquid Beach offices 
are Money Order offices, and receive the mail twice each day 
in summer. 



Report of the Superintendent of Schools for 1914 

To the Board of Education, and people of Bristol: — It is 
with pleasure that I eomply with the duty of submitting to you 
my 3rd annual report of the schools of Bristol. 

At the annual spring election, held Mar. 10th, 1913, Mr. J. 
E. Nichols was elected a member of the Board of Education for 
three years, and Mr. A. C. Fossett for two years. 

The Board met at Round Pond, Mar. 13th, and organized 
with the choice of H. G. Poole as chairman, and the reappoint- 
ment of Norris A. Miller as Superintendent of Schools. 

There is a general awakening in the interest of the schools 
in most of the towns of the State, and I believe that Bristol is 
in line with this progressive movement. There is no question 
but parents and citizens generally are taking more interest in 
the schools than ever before, which is proven by the visits of 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 211 

the parents to the schools, more ready compliance to the 
school rules, and more help to the teachers. Another proof is 
a larger registration of scholars and a better attendance than 
heretofore. The Course of Study by grades has proven to be 
one of the greatest blessings to our schools, for it has created 
an interest among the pupils for promotion from grade to grade, 
the completion of the Grammar school work and admission to 
the High School. It is very pleasing to note that no cases of 
contagious diseases have appeared in our schools during the 
school year and the general health of the pupils and teachers 
has been excellent. While I am satisfied that our schools are 
on an equality with schools of other towns, yet they are open 
for improvement. 

Probably no town in Lincoln County has better school Build- 
ings ( taken as a whole ) than Bristol. The writer in visiting 
the towns in the County paid particular attention to school 
property. While our buildings are among the best, we are sad- 
ly in need of play grounds for the children. In a majority of 
our schools the children are obliged to play in the road, causing 
great danger to themselves and inconvenience to the public. 
The town should take some action in the near future for the 
enlargement of our school grounds. 

In my 1912-13 report I cited the excellent work the school 
was doing, the interest manifested on the part of the student 
body, parents and citizens, the crowded condition of the 
school at that time and asked the citizens for an appropriation 
for the enlargement of the building. 

This the voters very generously accorded, and we have to-day 
a large, and well proportioned building, with commodious rooms 
well lighted, heated, and ventilated, and which is an honor to 
the town and State. Today there are enrolled in this school, 
eighty students, manifesting that same interest as heretofore. 
A business or Commercial Course has been added to the curri- 
culm, thus giving our boys and girls a chance to secure a busi- 
ness education at home. Three courses of study are now pro- 



212 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

vided, viz: College preparatory, English, and Commercial. 
Mr. V. H. Robinson, the principal, has been connected with 
the school for six years, and during this time under his tact 
and ability, it has grown from a small body of students to its 
present size, and excellent condition. 

Respectfully submitted, Norris A. Miller. 

This school opened in the Fall in its new addition to Lin- 
coln School building. The main room will seat 30 pupils, and 
is attractive, well lighted, and ventilated. When needed, a 
part of the cloak room can be used for laboratory work. The 
school opened with 13 students under the instruction of Mr. 
Farren, who is proving himself an excellent teacher. During 
my visit to the school, I noted much interest manifested by 
the pupils and saw some excellent work. The school is now 
small, but if continued in a few years, it will probably reach 
a much larger attendance. 



The following letter from Mrs. Lois M. Geyer, was furnished 
me recently, giving the names of pastors of the Methodist 
Episcopal Church. 

New Harbor, Me. Nov. 10th 1914 
Mr. J. H. Cartland : 

Dear Sir — I hereby send you a list of the Pastors of the 
Methodist Episcopal Church, since its organization in 1848, 
until the present time. The Parsonage was at Bristol Mills 
until 1888, when it was moved to Pemaquid. Pemaquid and 
New Harbor were then classed as one. 

There were a few years I think we had no stationed Pastor, 
but were supplied by local preachers. Once in particular after 
the Old Union Church was built in 1856, we had no pastor 
sent us for a year, but were supplied by Paris Rowell, who was 
a local Preacher, and back in my girlhood days by Hiram 
Murphy, who lived in town. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 213 

If there is any other information I can give you, I will be 
glad to do it. Hoping I have made this plain, I remain, 
Yours respectfully, Lois M. Geyer 



The following is the Pastoral record of Bristol, of which 
Pemaquid forms the South end, 1848-49 Seth H. Beale, 
'49 Edwin A. Helmerhausen, '50 Benjamin Bryant, '51 Cyrus 
Phenix, '52 William H. Crawford, '53-54 Geo. D. Strout, '55 
Geo. G. Winslow, '56 True P. Adams, '57—58 Benj. F. Sprague 
'59-60 Nathan Webb, '61 Josiah I. Brown, '62 Wm. H. Craw- 
ford, '63 Phineas Higgins, '64 James Hartford, '65 Alfred S. 
Adams, '67 Paris Rowell, '69 Josiah Bean, '70 Joseph King, 
'73-74 Nathan Webb, '75 Edmund H. Tunnicliffe, '76 no 
Pastor, '77-78-79 John P. Siminton, '80 Frank D. Hondy, 
'81-82-83 Moses G. Prescott, '84-85-86 Emery Glidden, '87 
Wilbur F. Chase, '88 Wm. H. Faroat. For Pemaquid and 
New Harbor, '89 Vinal E. Hill, '90-91 Preston A. Smith, 
'92 Melvin S. Preble, '93-94-95-96 Jas. H. Morelen, '97~98 
Carl E Petersen, '1899-1905 Arthur Lockhart, '05-06 Frank 
W. Brooks, '06-10 Charles F, Beebee, '10-12 Edward J. Web- 
ber, '12-14 C. Jasper Irwin, '14 Allan W. Constantine. 

In 1772 Bristol was erected into three Parishes, viz.: Wal- 
pole, Harrington and Broad Cove. A meeting house was soon 
after erected in each Parish. Rev. Alexander McLean a 
Presbyterian, became pastor in 1772 and remained until 1795, 
died in 1808. 

The Churches of to-day at Bristol are 9, and two chapels, 
one at West Bristol and one at South Bristol, Old Walpole 
built in 1772, Harrington near Pemaquid Falls, Round Pond 
two, Methodist and Universalist; Bristol Mills two, Congrega- 
tional and Methodist; Pemaquid Falls, Methodist, built 1837; 
New Harbor two, Methodist and Union. 

The first Church built at New Harbor was a Union church 
built at the expense of Mr. Alex. G. Poland, and contained 
fifty-eight pews, though only about half were ever sold. He 



214 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

also owned the land on which it was located. This was occu- 
pied by many Pastors of different denominations, people of any 
denomination having the right to speak there. Mr. Wm. 
Hackelton and Deacon Wm. Foster of Roekport, Mass., are 
remembered as teachers in the Sabbath Schools. The church 
was destroyed by fire after many years of service, and another 
built by the people of New Harbor and the surrounding vil- 
lages, with some outside assistance by the Methodist Episcopal 
Society. 

The second Church built at New Harbor in 1885 was burned 
on Jan. 1st. 1911. The building committee were Capt. Geo. 
Johnston, N. J. Hanna and Alex. G. Poland. A remarkable 
record was made by citizens of the surrounding villages, and 
some assistance by people who were non-residents, in having 
a new and more mordern church erected, all paid for, and ded- 
icated on Nov. 11th, 1914, in less than one year. 

This society is joined with the one at Pemaquid Falls. The 
People of Pemaquid and Long Cove attend Church there, 
it being the most central point for all. 



Soldiers of the Civil War 
Following are the names of the soldiers who enlisted during 
the Civil War — 1861 to 1865. 

Edwin D. Bailey Jas. D. Erskine, Lieut. 

Harvey Bearce, Corp. Chas. W. Ford, Lieut. 

David Bryant, Jr., Sergt. Emery H. Ford 

Linsdale Burnham Ambrose H. Foster 

Green Burns Isaac W. Foster 

Albert S. Clark, Surgeon Lewis S. Golloup 

J. S. Clark Timothy F. Gowdy 

Orvill H. Clark, Corp. Henry G. Gowdy 

John T. Dyer Donald M. Hastings 

ArnoJd B. Erskine, Corp. Phillip Hatch 

Jas. H. Erskine Wm. M. Herbert, Sergt. 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 



215 



John W. Hyson, Jr. 

Cyrus F. Jones 

Samuel Jones 

Solomon Lain 

Thaddeus Little, Adjutant 

Frank H. Lailer 

Edw. D. McClain 

Parker Mears 

Jos. E. Mears 

Benjamin Quimby 

Bedfield Sproul 

Chas. E. Sproul 

Chas. M. Thompson 

Lucius B. Varney 

Nath. Went worth 

Nathaniel Barker 

Arad Barker, Corp. 

Briggs G. Besse 

John M. Bryant, Corp. 

Francis A. Brackett 

Josiah J. Brown, Chap, 

Elbridge R. Bryant, Sergt. 

Timothy F. Brown 

Or in Carter 

Geo. B. Caswell 

Levi Cudworth 

Austin Curtis 

Alvin Cutler 

Andrew J. Erskine, Capt. 

Lemuel Erskine 

Geo. T, Emerson 

John H. Erskine 

Wilson T. Erskine 

John Ervine 

Jos. B. Fitch, Capt. 



At wood Fitch, Lieut. 
Samuel H. Fitch, Corp. 
John H. Ford 
Thomas H. Fossett 
Augustus H. Ford, Sergt. 
Samuel L. Foster 
Thomas A. Foster 
Orin I. Gaul, Musician 
John Goudy 
Albert Hatch 
Enoch Hatch 
Robert Hanley 
Lyman Hanna 
Robert Henry 
Albert Herbert 
Nathan C. Hodgdon 
Edward A. Humphrey 
Abel C. Huston, Sergt. 
Elbridge R. Huston 
Henry C. Huston 
David Hysom 
Robert S. Hysom 
Zebard F. Hysom 
John E. Johnston 
William J. Kelsey 
Alonzo Lawton 
Daniel W. Little 
Thomas C. Little 
Patrick Mann, Corp. 
John J. Mclntyre 
Ruben R. McFarland 
John Mclntyre 
Wm. H. Mclntyre 
Wm. D. Kirn 
Jas. N. Myers 



216 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 



Wm. Nash 

Jas. E. Nichols, Com. Sergt. 

Jos. Odlam 

Geo. Palmer 

Stephen Palmer 

Freeman Peasley, Corp. 

John Pool Jr. 

Julian B. Perkins 

Geo. W. Prentis 

Enoch O. Richards 

Montgomery Richards 

Calvin C. Rogers, Sergt. 

Marion Simmons 

Ephraim Stevens 

David P. Sproul 

August M. Sproul, Corp. 

Simeon Tarr 

Bradford Thompson 

Samuel F. Tarr 

Everett A. Went worth 

Wilson J. Yates 

Enoch Wentworth 

Stanley C. Alley, Corp. 

Henry H. Goudy 

John Goudy 

Charles G. Kenney 

Henry H. Webber 

Geo. H. M. Barrett 

Franklin H. Bell 

Wesley A. Bell 

Patrick Burns 

John Conner 

Henry B. Richards 

Chas.'H. Robinson 

Wesley Scott 



Richard H. Short 

Franklin B. Tarr 

John Tyler 

John Welch 

Ambrose Foster 

John M. Gamage 

Jos. Hanscomb 

John McManus 

Freeman Peasley, Corp. 

Albert L. Wiles 

Edwin W. Merrill 

Gilbert P. Brown 

Abdon Davis 

Gilbert Hammond 

John A. Johnson 

Thomas King 

Lander M. Reeves 
Wilmot Russel 
Thomas Wentworth 
Joseph Burns 
Van B. Fountain 
Chas. Johnson 
Lavoir Mansen 
Jas. Rice 
Jos. W. Sproul 
Jos. Willet 
Li man Curtis 
Marcus A. Hannah 
Geo. W. Huston 
Richard Keyes 
Wm. P. Perley 
Alonzo Richards 
Wm. E. Thompson 

Foreign Enlistments 
Wm. Davis 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 



217 



Jas. Erskine 
Joshua Gammage 
Chas. Hanley 
John Martin 
Llewellyn McLain 
Chas. Swain 
Jacob Day 
Chas. E. Foster 
Jas. Gray 
Wm. Lane 
Augustus McLain 
Elliot Pierce 



Geo. H. Andrew 
Lyman Curtis, Boston 
John Chamberlain, N. Y. St. 
Daniel Mason R. I. 
Leander McFarland 
SilasPenniman, Ohio 
Fred' k Creamer, Waldoboro 
Randall E. Humphrey, Corp. 
M.V. B. Robinson, Lewiston 
Robert Brackett, Portland 
Lewis L. Walker 
Calvin C. Robbins 



CHAPTER XXXIII 



MUSCONGUS ISLAND HISTORY 

The island known as Muscongus or Louds Island, and earlier 
as Samoset's Island, is of much historical interest. Here, it is 
said, the noted Indian chief Samoset, held his headquarters, 
and the early Indian Cemetery, located near the northern end 
of the island, is said to be his final resting place. 

The Island is about three miles long, with average width of 
one mile, and is shaped to resemble a miniature South America. 
A good Harbor indents the eastern coast line gi-ound, around 
which are clustered several fishermen's homes. Marsh Island, 
which shelters the harbor (bearing the same name) is the 
home of one family. The residents are chiefly fishermen, al- 
though the island contains some good farms. 

Alexander Gould, a son in law of John Brown, was probably 
the first white settler, coming here around 1650. William 
Loud, an English naval Officer, together with one Bishop, 
came here about the middle of the 18th century. Wm. Loud 
located in the north-east end of the island. He was born 
around 1710, died about 1800. His son, Wm. Solomon Loud, 
born about 1740, died about 1820, was the father of Samuel, 
William and Roberts. Samuel moved to Round Pond, and 
William to Orrington. Roberts remained on the island and 
is the ancestor of many of the present families. 

Wm. Carter, great grand father of the present generation, 
and Wm. Carter, Jr., were the first of this name to live here. 
They were of Scottish descent, but born in England. John L. 
Carter, father of Robert, was born here Oct. 10th, 1799. When 
returning from meteing with others he saw clearly the famous 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 219 

battle between the Boxer and Enterprise, which was fought 
between Pemaquid and Monhegan. Robert has long been a 
leading man in managing the island's affairs. 

The Poland family is of English Origin. Leonard Poland 
came from Massachusetts shortly after the Revolution, and is 
said to be the only man of Muscongus Island who saw service 
in the war for Indpendence. He enlisted at the age of four- 
teen, and when he arrived here, he settled on Marsh Island, 
and now lies buried in the Island Cemetery. 

The Island enjoys a peculiar political setting inasmuch as 
it has no government whatever, and pays no allegiance to a 
sovereign power. It is classified as a part of Lincoln County, 
and has always remained true to the Union when approached 
properly. Its people cast no vote, and pay no taxes. The 
last vote cast by the Islanders was at Lincoln's first election, 
when they voted with Bristol. Their vote was, with one ex- 
ception, democratic and carried the town democratic. The 
vote was then counted, and their vote thrown out, leaving 
Bristol a republican majority. 

Up to this time taxes had been paid in the town of Bristol. 
The only local expense was the support of schools, which was 
met by receipts paid by the New London fishermen, who came 
there each spring for lobsters, and bought the privilege of fish- 
ing there. After the trouble with Bristol, the Islanders hav- 
ing been deprived of their suffrage, upon advice of several law- 
yers, refused to pay taxes, saying, "We are willing to support 
the United States, but refuse to help Bristol." 

During the Civil War Bristol made a draft of her citizens, in- 
cluding the islanders, and by some accident an unequally large 
percentage fell to the Islanders. Nine men from a possible 
forty-five were drawn to fill Bristol's quota. The men refused 
to honor such a draft. When an officer landed to summons 
them he was met by a fusilade of boiled potatoes from the 
hands of an indignant matron, and driven from the Island. 
Citizens of the islands then employed David Chamberlain, Esq., 



220 TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 

to visit the authorities at Augusta to learn their legal rights 
and duties in the matter, and found Bristol had no right to draft 
them. They then met a proportional draft among their own 
citizens. John Loud, John Thompson, and Henry McGray 
were drafted and bought substitutes. Later the residents 
bought other substitues for drafted men. No citizen enlisted. 

Frederick Turner, a homoeopathic doctor, was the only resi- 
dent practicing physician. He was an Englishman who came 
here from Bangor before the war. 

The Baptist Church was organized about 1794; Wm. Jones, 
John Murphy, and Robert Oram were early deacons. Sylvanus 
P. Low came in the spring of 1861. Elder Edw. Dunbar some- 
times preached here, but Elder Edw. Turner was probably the 
first established pastor. Revs. Enos Trask, Wentworth Weeks, 
Ring, Flagg, Chas. E. Hawes, Chisam and Pillsbury, were 
later preachers. Rev. Fred Farnham was the last Pastor. 

The Muscongus Bethel Church (Cogregational), is a branch 
of the Portland Bethel, and was organized Feb. 10th, 1897. 
Rev. H. J. Allen was pastor three years. Zenas Hoffses and 
Constantine Carter were the first deacons. John Carter is now 
deacon, and Joseph Carter clerk. A Christian Endeavor Society 
holds regular services, and a Sabbath School is maintained. 

The earliest school house was built of rough stones. This 
was replaced by the old brick house, and that in turn by the pres- 
ent wooden structure about thirty years ago. The occasion of 
a flag raising about fifteen years ago, was an event of much 
interest and largely attended. An address was delivered by R. 
H. Oram of Bristol. The Island school is well maintained by 
the payment of a certain sum for each pupil in attendance by 
their parents. Three terms are held each year with an aver- 
age attendance of about eighteen scholars. The manage- 
ment is vested with a school agent chosen each year. 



INDEX 



PAGK 

Alewives and other migra- 
tory Fish and Birds__14, 52 

Archibald, Capt. Issac 22 

Archangel, first ship lost on 

N. E. shores, 1635 24 

Adams, on Civilization 53 

American Antiquarian So._67 

Aldsworth, deed of land 67 

Angel Gabriel, wreck of 69 

Acadia, Pemaquid a part __35 
Andros, Gov. Sir Redmond 

his Proclamation 80, 83 

Ambrose, Capt., his sailors 

and loss of ship 96 

Bristol, name derived 8 

Bristol History 208 

Baron de Castine 14, 182 

Boothbay, East 14 

Booth bay Harbor 12,15, 52, 54 

Brick-making 15 

Birch Island 24 

Beaver Island 29, 30 

Bashaba, or King of the In- 
dians 36 

Berries, abundance 39 

Baxter, address by 48, 105 

Bradford, Gov., sends food 

for Pilgrims 54 

Brown, John, Richard 58 

Bailey, separation from wife 

by terrors of the sea 72 

Baker, Mrs. Martha A 72 

Blaisdell, John 97 

Blaisdell, Samuel P 110 

Blacksmith Shops 132 

Burying yard, old 26, 148,150 
Boxer and Enterprise 105 



PAGE 

Bradford, Gov., complaints 

against Pemaquid 74 

Brockholls, Capt. Anthony 81 
Brackett, Col. Thom__97, 125 

Thos., Jack a slave 98 

Bremen 98 

Blockhouse, at Wiscasset ^-5Q 

Bombshells 99, 104 

first used, Pemaquid 182 

Christmas Cove 16, 17 

Curtis, Laforest 19 

Cooking under diificulties__20 
City of Portland, steamer__23 
Chamberlain, H. H., sch.__23 

Clark, William 28 

Claims, Spain and Portugal 34 
Cross, set up on Georges Is. 86 

at Thomaston 41 

Charles, Prince, of England 49 

Cellars, old 52, 115 

Codfish, at Boston and Pem- 
aquid 39, 5Q 

Cox and Newman, signers 

of first Deed 60 

Cape Newagen 65 

Cattle and other animals __70 
Cogswell. John, a London 

merchant 70 

Cattle, price of, 1636 75 

Cannon, French and Eng- 
lish 103, 106 

Chamberlain, J. L 105 

Cartland, Jacob Alonzo __112 

Cache, the 127 

Chadwick, Frank 144 

Chub, Pasco, commander 
of the fort 183 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 



PAGE 

Clark, Mrs. escape Indians 196 

Col umbus 90 

Castle, view from 92, 102, 106 

Caquina, where found 95 

Carty, John 97 

Damariscotta, river and vil- 
lage 12, 16 

Damiscove 13, 52 

Delberville 100 

Dunbar, David 15 

Dolliver, Charles A 22 

Dunham, Isaac and Dr.V.B.22 

Davenport, Albert 27 

Deed, first ex. in America 58-9 

Drown -67 

D'Aulney, death of 77 

Dickey, Col. 91 

Davis, Capt. Wm 94 

Dunbar, Col. David 108 

Dodge, Asa J 113 

Duck, a remarkable 1 14 

Documents, French 83 

Enterprise, Steamer 14 

Edmands, Geo, F., loss of — 25 

Earthy, John 62 

Elbridge, Gyles 67, 68 

Edgemere, Hotel 96 

Erskine,Col.Jas 110 

Friends, or Quakers 15 

Fort Island 15 

Frigates of War 30 

Fish, found in abundance__39 

Hatchery, Government 27 

French, first colony in 1604 48 
Fort, plan of, found in Spain 48 

Frederic, 1729-75 193 

Vote to destroy 197 

Rock 92 

Wm. Henry & Frederic 105 
House or mansion 108, 111 
Charles, soldiers __ 164, 168 
Wm. Henry 175, 178-9 



PAGE 

Forts Farley and Frederic__55 

Fitch, Joseph B 117, 124 

Fossett,Capt 129 

Fortifications 161 

Fishermen, English 13 

Gamage, Nelson. 15 

Fanny 25 

Geyer, Capt. Chas 20 

Greenleaf, Capt. Geo. 27 

Gorges, Sir Fernando.- 40, 57 

Gilbert, Capt 46 

Giles, Elbridge and Thomas 85 
160, 165, 170 

Gibbons 77 

Gould, Nathan 124 

Gravestones, old 153 

Heron Island, outer, inner 13 

Holly Inn 18 

Holmes, E. C 18 

Humphrey, Capt. Wm. S. _21 

Harvey, Capt. Isaac 27 

Hotel Waneta 30 

History of Pemaquid, His- 
torical Society 32 

Historical Tablet 43 

Hunt, his treachery 65 

Haines, Deacon 14, 72 

Hackelton, Mrs. Maria 91 

Horsford, Cynthia 93 

Hancock, John 98 

House, the Old Fort 100 

Higiman, Grace, prisoner 

by the Indians 169 

Introduction 5 

Ice Cutting 15 

Islands of Pemaquid 18 

Indians, traffic with 37—40,62 
Exhibit of at England __45 

Narragansett : 80 

Massacre at the Falls __ 171 
Doctor, Big Thunder __179 
Mickmack 77 



INDEX 



223 



PAGE 

Isle of Shoals 70 

John, Island, Bay and River 

25, 28, 29 

Jewel of Artes 43 

Johnson, Prof. John 67 

Capt. Geo 90 

Jamestown 81 

King Phillip, 1676 13 

War of 79 

King, cottages of 27 

Kennedy, Capt. Alexander 27 
Kings of France and Eng- 
land, contention 34, 35 

Kelley, John P 96 

LaTour, Chas. 75 

Linnekin's Bay, attractions 12 

Lewis, John 23 

Lobster Pounds 27 

London Comp'y, Lord Chief 

Justice, etc 45 

Levett, his testimony 65 

LeTour 75, 77. 88 

Liquor Traffic, early laws__87 
Lewis, Nathan and Geo. N. 

93, 94 

Lobsters 106 

May-flowers 11 

Medocawondo, Indian Chf. 170 

House . 14 

McFarland. E 15 

Mussel and Oyster Shells__18 
Monhegan, origin of name_21 

Visit of Capt. Way mouth 
vegetation, etc. 35, 36, 52 
Machete, or Spanish cane 

knife 93 

Museum 100 

Magnolia, Cotton Mather 101 

Magazine 106 

Maine Historical Society, 

interesting meeting 126,156 
Muscongus Island 218 



PAGE 

McLain, Wm., Harold, A. 
D.,Capt. Melville, L.D. 

Parson Alexander 19, 28 

93, 112, 122, 157 

Marr, C. E 22, 135 

Miles, Samuel S. 28 

McFarland, Addison, shop 27 

Maps, Ft. Popham,in Spain 32 

English, French, Spanish 

and Portuguese 50 

Monuments, educational 55 

Massasoit, treaty with Pil- 
grims 65 

Mather, Rev. Richard, In- 
crease and Cotton70, 72, 100 

Naval battle, relics, etc 199 

Newport, ship 11 

Norsemen 17 

North, of Augusta and Pem- 

aquid 28 

Nahanada 47,61,107,108,110 

New Harbor 51 

North, Gen. William 105 

Nichols, Capt. John, wife 105 

Oyster, shell heaps 10, 16 

Oram, Capt. Robert 25 

Oliver 62 

Pilgrims 63 

Patent, the 67, 71 

Phips, Sir William 177 

Paintings, Books, etc. 100,102 

Pell, Howland 100 

Portland, inhabitants all 

killed 1690 103 

Popham, Sir John 45 

Capt. and Gilbert, visit 

Pemaquid 47 

Sir Francis New Harbor 49 
Pilgrims at Cape Ann__54, 55 
Proclamation by Gov. An- 
drews 83 

Plymouth, supplies gone 53, 56 



TWENTY YEARS AT PEMAQUID 



PAGE 

Pemaquid, at this time 12 

Pavings 95, 119 

Government 81 

Rivers 92, 100 

Officers appointed 85 

Boundaries 12, 75, 79 

Point Light 22 

Improvement Assoeiation29 

First Settled 30 

Old records 32 

Called St Johns town __49 

Early Traffie 51 

Alewive industry 52 

The Metropolis 86 

Relics 90, 93, 105-6 

Rosier's account of visit 

of Waymouth 34 

Siege, British outfit 187 

Pipe manufacturing 134 

Partridge, J. W. 22,29, 1 10-1 1 

Jabob 98, 99 

Pool, Capt. Willard 23 

Porgies, or Menhaden 26 

Factories 30 

Port Royal 35 

Plymouth Co. 45,53 

Paul, Mrs 107 

Quakers, the meeting-house 98 

Resorts, Maine coast 9 

Rock of Pemaquid 10 

Race, Capt. Alfred 14 

Rutherford's Island 15, 24 

Rutherford, Rev. Robert__15 

Rice Brothers 15 

Rowe, Capt. Seth 27 

Russell, Mrs. Annie York 

29, 96, 100 

Relics, of New Harbor 52 

of early date 159 

Rhinelander, T. J. Oakley 105 
Robbihs, Calvin C. 110 



PAGE 

Summit House 15 

Shipbuilding, Damariscotta 16 
Shipley, John B., his early 

records 16 

Summer Cottages of the lob- 
ster fishermen 18 

Sproul, Henry 18, 19 

Stephens , Ralph 19 

Sewall, R. K 21 

Smith, Capt. John 22,32,49,50 

St. Croix River 35 

St. Georges Islands 36 

Shurte, Abram 52, 60, 62, 67 

Shalop, Sparrow 53 

Storms, great, of 1624, '35 69 

Samosett 59, 63— 6 

Sharp, Thos. 85 

St. Augustin 95 

Summer visitors 97 

Ships, Angel Gabriel and 

James 128 

Comparison, arrival, etc. 45 

Showels 145 

Steamers 10 

Thorpe Brothers 17 

Thread of Life 28 

Tercentenary, The, of first 
landing on N.E. shores__48 

Tablet, on Kennebec 48 

Thornton, J. Wingate 57 

Thayer, Rev. Henry O. __183 
Tibbetts, Chas. F., son Wm.96 

Viking, ship 16 

Virginia, ship 48 

Vessels granted passes 88 

old 137, 139 

Witch Island 26 

Whales 39, 49 

Winslow, Kanelm, Phoebe_54 

Washington, Gen 55 

Wharves, old __ 141, 142, 144 



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